Reize in de binnen-landen van Zuid-Africa

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Journey in the interior parts of South Africa made in the year 1803 By W.B.E. Paravicini di Capelli
aide de camp to the Governor of the Cape of Good Hope^*

Since the Governor and General en chef, J.W. Janssens, found during the first months of his sojourn at the Cape of Good Hope, that it was hardly possible to judge of the interests of the colonists of the distant districts and to reach decisions on the same without a reasonable knowledge thereof, resolved that a visit to the inhabitants of the interior parts would be one of the first and most advantageous acts to which he should devote his time.

The presence of the Commissioner-General, J.A. de Mist, facilitated this excursion from the capital, since His Excellency could assume responsibility for the most important affairs of the Colony in the absence of the Governor while the gentlemen of the Council of Policy could discharge the other official duties.

All preparations were thus made during March for the expedition. Since the success and the pleasure of such a journey depends largely upon the measures taken in preparing for it, nothing was spared to ensure an abundance of all that was required. This was loaded onto three stout wagons: provisions of all kinds, camping equipment, small articles of furniture, cooking utensils, stationery, equipment for lifting, hauling and carrying, sets of horse-shoes and other hardware.

Besides the three wagons, each drawn by twelve oxen, we were advised to take along a comfortable travelling-wagon, to be used in case of sickness or bad weather. Nothing was neglected to equip this wagon with all requirements. One who has not travelled through the wastes of South Africa, can form no idea of the extent of the preparations required to ensure that the journey passes off well.

Being quite ready by 2 April, the Governor departed from Cape Town (on Sunday, 3 April), accompanied by the Cape colonist Dirk (Gysbert) van Reenen and his son Daniel, Mr. (Coenraad) Nelson, the second lieutenant H. Gilmer, in command of a detachment of Dragoons, the surgeon-major J.P. Passet, and my own person. A salute of twenty-one guns was fired from the Castle and we were escorted for the first hour of our journey by the military commandant, members of the Council of Policy and some officers.

* Summary incorporating (in brackets) proper names and data from the foregoing annotation of the original text.

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We crossed the sandy Cape Flats lying between the town and the Hottentot Mountains and after two hours arrived at the farm (Meerlust) on the Eerste River of Mr. (Philippus Albertus) Myburgh, where we enjoyed the midday meal. By evening we arrived at the farm (Voorburg) of (Willem) Morkel where we spent the night. The pleasant weather enabled us to view this beautiful and fertile valley. The evening meal was a lavish one. If each day of our expedition is to be marked by two such meals as those of to-day, we could very well send our wagons back and invite anybody to visit the deserts of South Africa. Good beds, laden tables, who would not wish to travel thus?

The Cape Flats we have crossed bears signs that once Table Bay and False Bay may have been joined together and that these parts must have been subject to great changes in ages past.

We went to bed late at night.

Monday, 4 April.

We departed early, escorted by young men from the neighbourhood, passing the farm (Onverwacht) of (Daniel Johannes) Morkel, who accompanied us to the foot of the Hottentotshollandkloof. The ascent was extremely steep and difficult but we were rewarded by a magnificent view from the top towards Cape Town and Simons Town on the far shore of False Bay.

Descending on horseback on the eastern side we awaited our wagons at the Palmiet River, a difficult stream to cross and dangerous when in flood, travellers having to wait two or even three weeks sometimes before being able to cross, and several having lost their lives in attempting to do so.

By eleven o'clock we reached the farm (Palmietrivier) of (Jacob) Eksteen where we halted for refreshment before continuing along the highway eastwards passing (Houwhoek and Botrivier) and various loan places before arriving in the evening at the farm (Matjesdrift on the Zwarte River) of the Field Cornet (Andries) Otto where we were again sumptuously entertained.

Tuesday, 5 April.

We left for Baviaanskloof, passing over the farm of (Barend) Gildenhuys where the land begins which has been granted to the Missionary Society of the Moravian Brothers. We were anxious to see their institutions and also to establish to what extent the settlement was of advantage to the Colony. The missionary station is beautifully situated in a fertile valley surrounded by grassy mountains and watered by the Rivier-zonder-eind. Apart from wheat growing, cattle farming and an abundance of game, the Herrnhut missionaries teach their flock the most useful crafts. We were welcomed in a cordial manner. The children of the Hottentots sang hymns, we enjoyed refreshments and viewed the neatly laid out town where each home, consisting mostly of two rooms, has its own vegetable garden which is tilled most industriously. The men work for farmers or on the lands of the establishment; the women weave mats. We saw the workshop for the making of knives and steelware, and bought some souvenirs. We visited the spacious church

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with its impeccably neat interior where the Hottentots worship daily. They seem happy here and are useful to the farmers as labourers. It is desirable that the agriculturists should accord these free, original inhabitants of Africa treatment in keeping with the services they render, but many farmers would rather see the Hottentots in the same position as their slaves. A prudent government will no doubt find means to determine the margin of mutual obligations.

The Rivier-zonder-eind (thus named because it loses itself on both sides in other rivers over a distance of thirty miles) winds through the Baviaanskloof and waters its fertile face.

In the afternoon we arrived at the farm (Hartebeestekraal) of Mr. (Coenraad) Nelson who accompanied us till here. The farm is eminently suitable for horse-breeding and cattle farming. We saw three stallions of American breed, one of which has been imported for 2,000 Cape guilders, excluding cost of transportation.

Wednesday, 6 April.

We continued to the government farm Zoetemelksvalley, under the supervision of the post-holder (Marthinus Theunissen) who received instructions from the Governor concerning the felling of timber in the forests in the adjoining mountain kloofs and in the preservation of the indigenous wood.

It would perhaps be a good idea to restore to the Hottentots, who once lived in these parts and were scattered by the granting of loan places, part of this valley by granting them land here and inducing those dispossessed and wandering people to return here to settle.

After about an hour we continued the day's journey to the farm Ganzekraal of (Hendrik) Wessels, crossed the Bokrivier and came to the Rivier-zondereind which was in flood. Horses and oxen had to swim across and we used a boat belonging to (Johannes Hermanus) Redelinghuys - whose farm De Drooge Boom lies just south of the river - to convey the baggage and provisions on the wagons.

After the midday meal there, we proceeded eastwards encountering an exceptionally heavy shower so that we arrived in a drenched state on the farm (Avontuur or Stormsvallei) of (Jacob Daniel) Louw where the night was spent. In these parts many zebras and ostriches are to be found - our host promised to do his best to catch some alive and send them to Cape Town.

Thursday, 7 April.

In continuing from here we took a short route to the Breede River, the wagons having to make a long detour. Meeting colonists on the way who were travelling to Cape Town in their wagons to exchange produce for various necessities, and to have marriages solemnized or children baptized, we were most surprised when, in parting from them, they suddenly fired a salvo in salute. Holding their guns with their left hands they fire at the moment when they stretch out the right to us. Fortunately we had

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tame horses or we would have been thrown in our attempt to acknowledge their salute.

We arrived at the pontoon over the Breede River (opposite the farm Het Voorhuys) and were escorted to Swellendam by the pontoon-master (Johannes Petrus Koen) who assisted us in crossing eight or ten swollen streams on the way. At the drostdy we were received by the landdrost (Anthonij Alexander Faure) and his family, the Governor and I being offered hospitality in the drostdy itself.

On account of many courtesy visits by local inhabitants we had to delay our walk through the town with its newly-built church, surrounded by a walled square.

It is to be regretted that this town is too far removed from the capital to bring its produce to market. Thus it can only serve as an intermediate centre for the administration of the colony and an abode for those who wish to have little to do with other mortals.

What we have been told of the hospitality of this country has not been exaggerated. Everywhere we have found tables profusely laden. In Europe people calculate what they require in accordance with their circumstances to entertain a given number of guests. Here they prepare and give whatever they possibly can muster - which, however, costs less than appears at first sight since all food is produced on their own farms.

Though we have not travelled far, our wagons already require repairs. Everything is shaken to pieces on these rocky roads. The wagons were overhauled thoroughly here for there will not be the opportunity to do so further on.

Friday, 8 April.

A conference was held by the Governor, the Landdrost, and an elder of the church (Hillegert) Muller concerning the confused administration of church affairs and the church debt.

The main aim of our expedition being to restore that tranquility to the colony which was so often shattered since the occupation by the British in 1795, the first measures to this end were planned.

Some colonists had fled to the land of the Kaffirs, either to evade punishment for causing revolt or to escape from authority. These had now to be brought back gently and tactfully to prevent their influence with the Kaffir chief (Gaika) becoming a danger to the colony. Among them was to be found Coenraad de Buys, a man of sound judgement but an intriguer who had found the way to gain complete influence over Gaika. The point was now to get this hothead within reach by means of friendly words. So the Governor sent a letter by a trusted bearer (Zacharias A. van Jaarsveld) inviting de Buys to meet him at Algoa Bay. We entertain little hope of finding him there since the guilty are always suspicious.

Saturday, 9 April.

We had heavy rain throughout the day and the time was used for correspondence, mainly concerning the aim of the Governor

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regarding the condition of the Hottentots. The cause of the troubles besetting the interior districts during the past few years could be traced mainly to the maltreatment and wanton tyranny practised by the colonists towards the Hottentots and other natives. They should be able to exist in freedom on the land that was once theirs, and be protected against cruelty. The Hottentots were largely employed by the farmers and the Governor issued instructions for proper contracts of service to be entered into to safeguard the interests of the Hottentots. Printed forms of contract would be sent to each drostdy.

Sunday, 10 April.

Taking leave of the family of the Landdrost, we journeyed one hour to his farm Rotterdam, to which he accompanied us. Having obtained a fresh relay of oxen here, we continued (southwards), crossing the Buffeljagts River.

On our way to the cattle farm of Mr. van Reenen (Renosterfontein), we saw more game and after crossing the second cattle farm of the Landdrost (De Uitvlugt), we hunted several herds of reebuck and bontebok, shooting several. We arrived at the farm of our travelling companion (D.G. van Reenen), where we viewed his stud horses and extensive stables for horses and dairy-cows, his stallions and a great number of mares and foals.

Monday, 11 April.

The day was spent in hunting and viewing the mouth of the Breede River, the first which we have seen resembling what one would call a river in Europe. Light vessels should be used on it to convey Swellendam produce to ships for transportation to Cape Town. Mr. van Reenen's slaves caught a variety of fish before we returned to the farm where an excellent meal awaited us.

Tuesday, 12 April

was spent in cleaning and preparing our hunting equipment.

Wednesday, 13 April.

We rode on to the farm of the Commandant (Pieter) Lombard (on the Duivenhoks River), following a route across a wide, fertile plain with grass stretching to the horizon, excellently suitable for agriculture, but the difficulties of transport keep the plough out of the soil.

Lombard's house stands on a grassy rise overlooking the Duivenhoks River, which presents a picturesque view. He played a notable part during the late raids of the Kaffirs, and related that an hour from here there was a kraal of Hottentots on the Slang River, who had conducted themselves quietly, living on the milk and meat of their flocks.

The households here in the country are unusual. The colonists have numerous families and a multitude of slaves (and) so-called free Hottentots. One hardly takes a step without being surrounded by a number of children and maids of every age and colour. The women enhance their Hottentot charms by smearing their cheeks with red clay and rubbing their skins with grease.

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After the midday meal we rode on to the farm of (the Ex-Heemraad Pieter du Pré) on the Krombeks River, from which water had been diverted to form a large fish-pond in front of the house.

Thursday, 14 April.

Departing at half past six o'clock in the morning we passed the (Kraggas Height), visited the farm of (the Widow) Olivier and by noon arrived at the farm (Zeekoegat on the Vet River) of (Hillegert) Muller where we spent the night. The loads of our wagons were aired and repacked since they had to take the ordinary route to the Lange Kloof while we made a tour on horse-back in a different direction to Plettenberg Bay.

Friday, 15 April.

Leaving by moonlight early in the morning, we encountered a heavy shower which made the road very slippery and made our progress in this hilly country very difficult, yet we hunted on the way. We reached the farm (Tijgerfontein) of (Cornelis Johannes) Snyman, a miserable abode inhabited by friendly and good people, who made a living by tapping the aloes which grow here in great numbers, and selling the juice at a good price in Cape Town. We did not stop, intending to spend the night on the other side of the Gouritz River on the farm (De Eylandsdrift) of (Esaias) Meyer. However, the dwelling here was too small to accommodate us, and we had to continue two hours further to the farm (Hartebeestekuil) of (Christoffel) Botha.

The Gouritz is one of the most difficult and dangerous rivers to cross in winter, everything having to be taken apart or unloaded and floated over, including the wagons. This is perilous since the river brings down in its flood uprooted trees, rocks and reeds, which we saw piled up on both banks.

Never on our journey have we seen anywhere a heavier man than Botha. We found him sitting in an arm-chair on rollers at his front-door. Two young slaves have to push him in and out of the house. He declared that he is in very good health and appeared to be a powerful man, which was surprising in view of the lack of movement to which he is doomed.

We found the house full of people, calling themselves ‘trek people’, mostly young women and girls, refugees from the farms recently plundered and burnt by the Kaffirs and rebellious Hottentots. They told of the disasters they had experienced; (Susanna Magdalena du Preez), sister-in-law of Botha, related how their home had been attacked by wandering Kaffirs and Hottentots and burnt over the heads of the defenders. Her husband and son were then brutally killed before her eyes and she was driven naked into the bush, tied to the tail of an ox. By chance she was found later by a farmer, who rescued her. These tales are a foretaste of what awaits us on our journey ahead.

Saturday, 16 April.

Continuing towards Mossel Bay, we first visited Vlees Bay, which can be of little use to shipping, having an unsafe anchorage and no fresh water. By eleven o'clock we arrived at the post-house at Mossel

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Bay where we were received by the post-holder (Hans) Abué, a Dane who had once been secretary to the notorious (Count Johann Friedrich) Struenzee, in whose fall (in 1772 after a palace coup) he shared, and had been forced to flee to South Africa.

Taking a walk along the shore we compared its situation with the description of the English author (John) Barrow who seems to have written with great accuracy, except that we found more and better fresh water than he indicated.

A pity it is that Mr. Barrow, in his works on the interior parts of South Africa, depicts the morals and qualities of the colonists in such an odious and mistaken light. We have thus far seen too much good in these people to accept his views. These were prompted by the uncommon hatred of an Englishman towards strangers, which has induced this traveller to select, in support of his collected instances of lack of morality, the evil rather than the commendable side of the colonist, instead of citing as examples the great number of colonists whose kind assistance contributed so much towards the success of his journey.

With Abué we inspected the caves at Cape St. Blaize, and found fossils along the shore. The post-holder assures us that these rarities are found in great number along the (south) west coast.

The Governor gave instructions for the repair of the government warehouse, timber store, and smaller buildings. In the roadstead we saw the brig (John) belonging to (John) Murray. He does brisk trade at his shop beside the road (just beyond the Geelbeks River), where the inhabitants can obtain clothing, leather goods, implements and hardware. We augmented our supply of lead for hunting purposes here.

Sunday, 17 April.

By noon we took leave of the post-holder and, following the coast-line, later in the evening came to the farm (Rheeboksfontein at the Klein Brak River) of the widow (of Pieter) Terblanche. This lies on the main road to the Outeniqua Land.

Here again we found some refugees, of whom some had managed to save their flocks. They had recovered from the first sense of their privations, at least the young women and girls, some quite pretty. They provided a very pleasant evening since most of them love dancing. I got hold of an old violin from somewhere and set them all dancing till late at night, the musician being encouraged from time to time to prolong the fun. They would have liked to persuade us to stay another day, and, believe me, some of us had a good mind to do so!

Monday, 18 April.

The General chose to give the sign of departure and, after tender farewells had been said to these happy young people, we followed the road to Outeniqua Land through a deep and windy defile. It was cold: after passing the (Great) Brak River we climbed the height beyond, and found ourselves at the entrance to Outeniqua Land. Crossing the Gwayang we

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reached the government post towards noon, where we were received with the usual cordiality by the post-holder (Georg Sebastian Fend).

Tuesday, 19 April

was devoted to a tour of Outeniqua Land. The farm (Modderrivier) of the widow (of Dirk Uwens), held to be one of the best in the district, but now deteriorating since the death of the occupier, was visited.

We inspected the government forests, seeing beautiful varieties of indigenous wood. On our return to the post a messenger was despatched to Plettenberg Bay to advise the post-holder there of our approach.

Again we had occasion to learn to what irregularities and arbitrary crimes, committed with impunity, the recent state of anarchy in the outer districts had given rise. The case of the colonist Klaas Rademeyer, who shot a bastard Hottentot on the pretext of being a poacher, but in reality to avoid paying him four rixdollars which he owed him by contract, can serve as an example.

On every hand one hears the cry of alleged cruelties, and the Governor has referred all these complaints to Landdrost Faure at Swellendam for a thorough investigation, enjoining him to institute prosecutions according to the law without the least compunction, wherever this may be required.

An orderly community will be turned into a troup of bandits, if these unspeakable cruelties are not punished rigorously.

The tiger does not consume the tiger, but so-called Christians persecute their fellow-beings, and rend them with glee just because these cruel men in their folly consider themselves superior and more privileged creatures than the poor Hottentot serving them on his own native soil. But let me return to the narrative.

Wednesday, 20 April.

Departing from the Outeniqua Post, we saw on our way through the forest many farms plundered, burnt or completely destroyed by the Kaffirs during their recent incursion. Some of the refugees had become squatters on state land here and requested grants, having built cottages and made cattle kraals. But the Governor gave no definite reply, as this area may prove suitable for re-establishing the Hottentots or for farms for settlers from Europe once the scheme of (G.K.) van Hogendorp is adopted.

We had been told that we would now encounter the worst roads of the whole journey. This proved to be true. Coming over the Hottentotshollandkloof was like a level road compared with the crossing of the deep and rocky Kaaimansgat and the steep ascent on the far side, where we had to lead our horses by hand in places.

By noon we halted at the burnt-out farmhouse (Oude Kraal) of a certain (Her[t]z Grünstadt) for the midday meal. This morning we shot our first ‘Loerie’ or Cape parrot, which was preserved for stuffing. In the afternoon we crossed the deep drift of the (Trakadakouw) and followed a difficult road to the Zwarte River which we swam over before arriving on the farm (De

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Zwarte Rivier) of (Stephanus) Janse Weijers. Our host entertained us with excellent fresh eel found abundantly in the river.

Thursday, 21 April.

Passing over the marshy and partly rocky road to (Ruigtevallei) we came after two hours to Groene Vallei, a lake of fresh water containing fish and quite close to the sea. We amused ourselves the whole morning shooting duck which abound here, together with flamingoes and other water-fowl. Laden with game-birds, we arrived at the farm (Ganse Vallei) of Wessel Vosloo, by midday. After the meal we continued through the drift of the Goukamma, and half an hour further reached the farm Buffelsvermaak of Pieter Terblanche, at whose insistence we called at his house and had perforce to enjoy a second midday meal, the plates being heaped up by Terblanche's two pretty, angel-faced daughters. I would not have objected to staying here overnight, but the Governor wished to continue another four hours to camp at the drift of the Knysna (lagoon), where we arrived late at night when the tide was in. It was impossible to cross and there were no farms near by. So a great fire was built at which we awaited the dawn.

Friday, 22 April.

Rising at day-break, we found that we still could not cross as the sea came in strongly and rose by six feet at high-tide. With the ebb of the tide we got over by nine o'clock, but the weather was overcast and poor visibility prevented us from gaining a good view of the Knysna (lagoon). However, on the farm (Melkhoutkraal) at the burnt-out homestead of (Johann von Lindenbaum) we were met by (a genteel Englishman) John Callander, who escorted us and gave the Governor detailed information on the situation, extent and usefulness of the Knysna lagoon, offering him also a sketch of the Knysna, which was gratefully accepted.

The Kaffirs had burnt the wooden dwelling and observatory which Callander had put up, and destroyed or taken all his equipment and personal possessions. The Governor promised to consider compensation to him for his losses in return for a careful survey of the lagoon and entrance of the Knysna, on which he was to report in detail. Returning for our midday meal to Lindenbaum's farm, we journeyed from there to Plettenberg Bay, where at night-fall we were received with the utmost courtesy by the government post-holder (Johann Friedrich Meeding) and his family.

Saturday, 23 April.

We inspected on horse-back the shore of the bay and the abandoned homesteads, visiting first the government warehouses which had become useless through age, especially the store-house for timber. The Governor authorized the erection of a new store such as is found in Holland at saw-mills, and costing about 600 Cape guilders.

Riding along the bay we noted the only possible landing-place (pointed out by the post-holder) and checked the maps of (François Renier Duminy) and Barrow. Going on to Jakkals Kraal we passed deserted dwellings of the

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colonists (Guilliam Wolfaardt) and (Hendrik) Heyns murdered (six months previously) by the Kaffirs, and came to the farm of (Cornelis) Botha, whose son (Cornelis Johannes) had also been murdered at the time.

This area (around Piesang River) seems very well suited for settlement of some Hottentot families, who would be able to sustain themselves with the greatest ease.

Sunday, 24 April.

This morning was occupied with correspondence and a ride eastwards to the mouth of the Keurbooms mainly to explore the suggestions made by Cape Town inhabitants that wind and water saw-mills be erected here. This did not prove feasible on account of the unsuitability of the rivers and prevailing winds.

Monday, 25 April.

We rested, wrote letters to our families in Cape Town, busied ourselves with the overhauling of our hunting equipment and the drying and packing of birds shot. In the afternoon we took a walk with the Misses Meeding.

Tuesday, 26 April.

Our horses were sent on ahead to await us at Willem Cloeten's Kraal.

Wednesday, 27 April.

Since we had an unusually long distance to cover on this day, we took leave of the family of the post-holder who had received us so hospitably and started out at four o'clock in the moonlight, arriving after two hours on the farm (Stofpad) of (Hendrik?) van der Watt, where I stayed behind to dry my clothes, since the horse I was riding had knelt down in a stream with me on the way here. It took me two hours to catch up with our company again at a point where the route became mountainous and we had a foretaste of the incredibly steep and twisting path we would follow in these mountains, which are seldom visited. At every turn we gaze into tremendous depths, where we see the Keurbooms winding below. We ascended four successive heights before reaching Cloeten's Kraal, where a Hottentot family had settled. We were the first white people they had seen since Barrow passed here (in 1798).

We found our horses here, and commenced the utterly exhausting climb over loose rocks, being led on by an untiring guide who jumped from rock to rock like a mountain-buck. So we came to the foot of the highest mountain of all (at De Vlugt where Pieters River joins the Keurbooms). Before taking on this last ‘air journey’, we halted at the Keurbooms, from where we had a magnificent view of Plettenberg Bay, nine hours from here as the crow flies. On the other side are the many pleasantly situated farms of the Lange Kloof. By five o'clock in the afternoon we arrived at (De Avontuur), the farm of Matthys Zondagh in the Lange Kloof, where our wagons and the detachment of Dragoons had arrived three days before us.

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We also found here a strong commando of young colonists under the command of the Commandants (Pieter Hendrik) van Rooyen and (Philip Rudolf) Botha. They were to accompany us, since we might still encounter marauding bands of Kaffirs and Hottentots on our further journey. Each commando member had two horses and they had their own tents, transport and provisions. The Commandants had bought 40 trek-oxen, 14 slaughter-oxen and 190 wethers as supplies for the Governor, and hired a multitude of Hottentots as herdsmen and drivers.

Thursday, 28 April.

We stayed in our tents while our baggage was being aired and placed in the correct order for reloading. Gunpowder and lead was issued to the Commando, the horses were shod, the order of the wagon-train determined, and each assigned his position and responsibilities to ensure proper control of provisions and equipment.

Mr. D.G. van Reenen was given the supervision of the issue of all provisions, purchase of slaughter-stock, and provision for the table (to which end he had a steward and cooks allocated to him). The younger Van Reenen was made head of hunting, being in charge of the daily march of the train and maintenance of the drivers of the teams of oxen. Lieutenant Gilmer was placed in charge of the armed force, the pitching and striking of camp, and care of camping equipment. Besides his medical duties, Dr. Passet would have the care and preservation of all specimens of birds, skins and plants collected.

To me, was entrusted the keeping of an accurate journal, the drawing of people and animals and sketching of important views. Furthermore, I was charged with the care of stationery, clothing and bedding as well as the stock brought from Cape Town of gewgaws for barter and presentation. I was also given 7,000 rixdollars for all payments in the course of our journey.

Friday, 29 April.

Departing from Avontuur, we proceeded along the Lange Kloof, a fertile valley and well-populated. One of our wagons overturned because the driver neglected to send someone ahead to test the drift he was to cross. Some baggage got wet and my large portfolio of drawing paper was soaked. At the house of Ignatius Ferreira (at Misgund on the Diep River) we halted for the midday meal, finding in the house four rifles left there by Batavian deserters. These we put on the wagons, and the Governor took the opportunity of pointing out how detrimental and criminal it was for colonists to harbour and feed deserters.

By evening we reached the farm (Klipheuvel) of Stephanus Ferreira, uncle of the Ferreira (of Misgund). We were cordially received though the place was crowded with refugees from the outer districts. It is a rare sight to see so many households on one farm. Each builds his dwelling-hut and kraals, and has herdsmen for the cattle he has left. The inhabitants of the Lange Kloof have mostly fortified their dwellings and kraals with walls of sods and thus succeeded in defending life and property against the Kaffirs.

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We spent a most enjoyable evening with song and dance. The (Afrikaner) girls present had their share in this; they love the sight of epaulettes.

Before leaving Ferreira, I should like to refer to this man more closely. Filled with pride at the degree of perfection he believes that he has attained, he makes use in conversation of set phrases and Biblical quotations. Whenever his interests demand it, he quotes Bible texts sanctimoniously. Of this he gave a proof when the Governor asked his opinion on the impropriety of treating Hottentots and slaves inhumanly. Our hypocrite, who clearly felt that this question was aimed at him personally, tried to prove that the Hottentots were the race of Ham, accursed of God and doomed to slavery, and that it was the duty of a Christian to obey the Word of God. However neat this subterfuge, he noticed that this application was not well received by the Governor. He blushed, slammed shut the Bible, laid it in its accustomed place on the mantleplank of the chimney and gave a new turn to his Scriptural knowledge.

Saturday, 30 April.

On leaving our old host we were less impressed by his long valediction than by shaking hands with the pretty Afrikaner girls! On the way, we met the train of wagons, trek-oxen and slaughter-oxen of the commando of the Field-Cornet (Cornelis) Rademeyer, who were to join us.

On the farm (De Krakeelrivier) of a certain (Matthys) Strijdom we gave our horses fodder before going on to the farm (at Wagenboomsrivier) of (Johann Andreas) Kritzinger, destroyed by the Kaffirs but recently rebuilt. We had our midday meal in the open veld while the wagons drove on five hours further to the Kromme River. On the banks of this river we camped for the night.

Sunday, 1 May.

As we proceeded, the Kromme River became deeper and swifter. At the second crossing, one of the wagons overturned again; we lost three oxen and some baggage that was washed away. The rest of the team and the wagon were saved with difficulty. In the afternoon, the tedious and hazardous crossings back and forth over the Kromme River continued till we arrived late at night at the deserted cattle-farm of Thomas (Ignatius) Ferreira, called Jagersbosch, and spent the night in the empty dwelling-house, partly burnt by the Kaffirs.

Monday, 2 May.

We left late, having to round up our oxen, which had wandered off during the night. Our route was still along the Kromme River, which we crossed for the last time by noon, making a halt on the opposite bank.

There was a sudden change in the weather, and a thunderstorm of such fury and awesome grandeur broke over us amid the towering crags, that everybody in our company declared that they had never seen such weather. Saturated to the bones, we hurried on to reach the deserted farm (Esschenbosch) of Jacobus (Stephanus) Vermaak, and took up our quarters for the night in two small houses.

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Tuesday, 3 May.

Between the farm (De Twee Fonteynen) of Cornelis (Tobias) Vermaak, and that of C.A. Muller (Leeuwenbosch), we crossed the Diep River and outspanned at midday (near) the farm of Marthinus (Philippus) van Rensburg, seeing small game in plenty around here (antelopes, wild bustards and pheasants and a type of buck called oribi) on our way to the farm Platjesdrift. In this vicinity the chain of mountains, which stretches from Hottentots Holland along the coast to the Tsitsikamma, comes to an end (at Witkleibos). The farm (De Diepe Rivier) of Theodorus Potgieter lay on our left.

Crossing a branch of the Zeekoe River we came to the farm (De Zeekoerivier) of (Johannes Jacobus) Kock, where we were received by Theodorus Potgieter who lives on it, the owners having fled before the Kaffirs. Most of the farms here were deserted, but the previous occupiers wished to return as soon as internal peace should have been restored.

We stayed over here, the colonists receiving us as well as circumstances allowed. There was no lack of goodwill, but most of them have become destitute. Most of the farmhouses were fortified by high walls. Some served their purpose, but in destroying farms the Kaffirs seem to have preferred the fortified ones to those lying unprotected.

Wednesday, 4 May.

A day of rest utilised to view the mouth of the Kromme River and to visit the farm Welgeleegen (Goedegeloof) of the widow (of Frederik) Potgieter. We followed the right bank to the mouth, closed perpetually by sand banks, as is the case with all South African rivers we have seen so far. We found that Duminy's map shows the situation of the bay to the best advantage. But our present abode on J. Kock's farm is not indicated accurately, so we made and noted the corrections for this and other farms in relation to the course of the Zeekoe River.

In the afternoon the Governor arranged a shooting contest. The young Afrikaners proved themselves to be excellent marksmen. The young folk spent the evening dancing. I missed this as I had too much correspondence to attend to, and regretted it all the more since there were pretty young ladies who had come expressly from the neighbourhood to see the General.

Thursday, 5 May.

Continuing our journey in the morning over a high rise, we passed the farm of Hermanus Pietersen on the Klein Zeekoe River, where we dismounted to greet the people before going on to the farm Kabeljauwsrivier, on the river of the same name, belonging to the widow (Johann) Jacob Kritzinger. We made a short stop here, visiting the mouth of the river, and had our midday meal an hour or one and a half hours further on. From here the governor wrote to Major (Carl) von Gilten, commanding the 5th Batallion of the Waldeck Regiment in Algoa Bay, to announce our impending arrival. From a wagon of Thomas Ferreira, coming from the Bay, we learnt that the first ship transporting the garrison of Fort Frederick from Cape Town,

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had arrived several days before, but the other had not put in an appearance yet.

By four o'clock we saw the Gamtoos River before us and camped for the night on the bank. Here we saw for the first time the hedgehog tree (euphorbia stellaespina).

At the camp-fire of the Hottentots and wagon-drivers, I watched the fascinating ‘card game’ of the Hottentots played with little pieces of wood concealed between the fingers and involving agile movements, contortions of the body, rapid talk, strange sounds and gesticulations and the switching of the wood from one hand to the other, the victor being eventually covered with the clothes of all the participants - a dubious reward.

During supper we were told that a hippopotamus was coming down the river. Everyone rushed out with rifles, but we could not get within rifle-shot and only heard its snorting and sighing as it made off over sandbanks in the river.

Friday, 6 May.

We began crossing at the drift of the Gamtoos, an impressive sight as the long line of wagons went through, preceded by those of the Commandants, who had offered to seek out the shallow places, and with the cattle and sheep, in charge of small Hottentot herdsmen, swimming over the river in batches.

Formerly, the Gamtoos had been the boundary of this colony and one could wish that it had never been traversed. Then, in the time of Governor van Plettenberg, the boundary was extended to the Great Fish River and the land east of the Gamtoos formed into the new district of Graaff-Reinet.

On setting foot in the new district, we could already notice a difference in the appearance of the land and the vegetation. Stopping one hour beyond the river we found ourselves (at Galgenbosch) in a most beautiful place reminiscent of an English park. In the afternoon we passed (Matjesfontein or Strandfontein) travelling close to the seashore and camping for the night on the steep banks of the Van Stadens River (near the drift at Kafferskraal).

Saturday, 7 May.

In crossing the Van Stadens River we were surprised to find that the drift where our camp had stood, was deeper than we had thought and more water got into the wagons than the day before at the Gamtoos. Those of the company who were on horse-back crossed higher up at the old wagon-road (to the farm Rietfontein of Ignatius Johannes Muller) from where the wagons kept the ordinary road (to Algoa Bay), while those on horse-back turned off to the right to the farm (Buffelsfontein) of (Johann) Christian Vogel where the well-known lead-mine is situated.

We found nothing there, however, to indicate the exact spot, and investigators will be send out from Algoa Bay. From Vogel's deserted farm we thrice crossed bends of the Brak River and passed (the Kragga-Kamma), a beautiful round lake, called in South Africa a valley (vlei).

After a halt beyond the Brak River we noticed sings of plentiful game, heard

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many shots of the Commandants and some young men who had gone on ahead to hunt, and saw ostriches and antelopes running past. Our camp was pitched this afternoon on the farm (Hartebeestfontein) of the widow (of Barend Daniël) Marais.

Meanwhile, I had ridden in the morning to Algoa Bay by order of the Governor to announce the approach of our wagon-train. Just as I returned to camp, an express rider arrived from Cape Town, bringing a large packet of letters from our families, from the Commissioner-General and the Military Commandant. These were especially important since they contained reports from Holland.

Sunday, 8 May.

Departing at half past eight this morning, we were met half an hour later by Major von Gilten, who reported to the Governor, that the brig De Spion had arrived with 50 chasseurs of the Waldeck Regiment three weeks before, and already returned to the Cape. Everything done by the Captain Siccama, commanding the brig, and by Major von Gilten was found to be in excellent order.

Fort Frederick and the block-house came into view by eleven o'clock. We dismounted at the house of the Commandant, where the Governor took up his residence, allocating one of the four rooms to me as bedroom and office.

Taking a walk along the shore to the Baakens River, the Governor saw the lower block-house, a building in as reasonably good state as most of the government buildings here seem to be. We did not visit the Fort Frederick which, from the hill (above the Baakens River) commands the surrounding land, for Major von Gilten had reported that he had the previous day arrested the colonist (Thomas Ignatius) Ferreira for alleged acts of extreme cruelty and imprisoned him there. The Governor did not wish to speak to this man immediately after his arrival.

To our great joy the hooker De Verwachting arrived an hour after us, bringing the rest of the contingent of chasseurs and badly-needed supplies and equipment.

The Governor went to visit the missionaries (Dr. J.T.) van der Kemp and (James Read), who work here among the heathen. Van der Kemp has been labouring for a year with a palsey and is emaciated in appearance. He seems to be a sensible man; one can only hope that his mental powers have not been affected by his prolonged illness. Read introduced the Hottentots of the Institute to the Governor, about 200 of them, impoverished mainly through the recent disturbances and existing on veld roots, game and milk from their surviving flocks.

Immediately upon his arrival the Governor found a whole list of serious complaints submitted by the missionaries against some local Christian inhabitants (more particularly Thomas Ignatius Ferreira and members of his family). It seems that our stay in this place will last some time if the real purpose of this journey is to be attained.

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Monday, 9 May.

The Governor had a very satisfactory interview this morning with the missionary van der Kemp. I tidied my office. Bad weather is still keeping De Verwachting out in the bay. The Governor has agreed with Major von Gilten to free Thomas Ferreira from arrest. He summoned him to appear before him, and without mentioning the complaints pending against him, warned Ferreira to conduct himself quietly. Major von Gilten was advised to watch this man carefully.

We inspected the Fort Frederick, a fort built of stone, with a block-house inside. The palissades around it had been removed by the farmers to make cattle kraals. The magazine will hold 2,000 pounds of powder. The provisionschamber is in a fair state and will hold a reasonable quantity of supplies.

The burghers (Gabriel) Stoltz, (Johann Christian) Vogel and (Theodorus) Kleynhans who had been sent the day before to the Sundays River to invite the Hottentot captain Klaas Stuurman to come to the Governor, returned. They had met him, and he asked to meet the Governor next Wednesday at the Zwartkops River, at the farm Zwartkopsrivierswagendrift of the late Field Cornet Cornelis Johannes van Rooyen since he did not dare to come as far as Algoa Bay. There were a few Kaffirs with some cattle near Stuurman. On the Bushmans River, a good distance from Stuurman, was the kraal of the Hottentot captain Bouvezak (Boesak), who had been asked by Stuurman to accompany him to the Governor, but there was no word from him as yet.

Tuesday, 10 May.

The Governor arranged that Mr. van Reenen should meet Klaas Stuurman the next day at van Rooyen's farm. Dr. van der Kemp was requested to send Hottentots, who had complaints to him this evening and some appeared, the Governor promising to see that justice was done.

Wednesday, 11 May.

Mr. van Reenen left to meet Stuurman. A number of farmers, who had lain here on commando for some months, came to see the Governor regarding complaints against Ferreira and others. Two deputies from Stuurman (who had missed Mr. van Reenen on the way) turned up to announce their captain's arrival.

Persuaded by Mr. van Reenen, Stuurman came with some of his men this evening. He was questioned by the Governor and, when asked what he wanted for the future, expressed the desire to be allocated a farm, where he could sustain himself and his people, and live in peace, as formerly, with the Christians. He suggested a farm on the eastern side of the Gamtoos, and persisted in this though the Governor offered him land closer to the protection of Fort Frederick. He evinces sound ideas and seems inclined to settle down with his people among the farmers and to take service with them, provided there could be some assurance of fair wages and treatment.

De Verwachting lifted its anchor this morning to come closer inshore, and sent a sloop ashore containing (Captain Ludwig) Alberti and some chasseurs. This boat brought post from Cape Town to the Governor and some of the

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gentlemen. The General received letters, newspapers and reports of importance from Holland as well as Europe in general.

Thursday, 12 May.

We had a second conference with Stuurman, Mr. van Reenen and the Commandants being present. The assurances were repeated that the past would be forgotten; new laws would be made to ensure protection and abodes to them. The tokens they had received from the British Government, were exchanged by us for a brass collar bearing the arms of the Batavian Republic and presents of little mirrors and knives given to them. Whereupon Stuurman cum suis departed, Stoltz and other burghers accompanying them to summon other Hottentot and Kaffir captains this side of the Fish River, to come to the Governor.

On account of continuing complaints received by the Governor against the Ferreira family, Mr. van Reenen and I were ordered to investigate these allegations. We found that, though it would be difficult to establish evidence in satisfactory form from the Hottentots and slaves concerned, there was sufficient proof of such serious crimes having been committed as to warrant a death penalty.

On receiving our report, the Governor addressed by letter a series of questions to Ferreira, relating to his actions in Algoa Bay during the period of the recent disturbances. But knowing beforehand that Ferreira would never be able to clear himself of the charges of corruption and theft (as was indeed proved by the reply full of untruths received from him, and also during a verbal interrogation), the Governor dismissed him from his military duties. To prevent him from disturbing the peace again by cruelties that cry to high heaven, committed against the original inhabitants of the land, and driving them to desperation and new disturbances, it was decided to banish him and his family from Algoa Bay, and send them under escort to Swellendam to live there under the eye of the Landdrost. This lenient solution was preferred by the Governor to avoid rousing feelings by pursuing criminal charges concerning events of several years ago, and opening up old wounds without any prospect of repairing past disasters.

The last troops from De Verwachting and part of the cargo landed, some men having to wade ashore up to their necks in the water on account of the heavy surf.

Friday, 13 May.

From early morning the Governor wrote letters: to the Commissioner-General, to Captain Corresch of De Verwachting, and one to the Governor-General and Council of India, which Capt. Corresch will take to Batavia.

Saturday, 14 May.

An envoy of the Kaffir chief (Jalusa) arrived, wearing a brass plate with the British arms, like that of Stuurman, but smaller. With him was an envoy sent by Slambie (Ndlambe) the uncle of the king Gaika (Ngqika).

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There was also a Hottentot with his family, who had been under the chief Botumane in Kaffirland but wished to return among Christians.

Speaking through a Hottentot interpreter provided by Dr. van der Kemp, Jalusa's envoy declared that they knew of the new government of the country and wished to live in peace with it. He could not say whether the Kaffir chiefs would venture as far as the bay, even if assured that no harm would come to them.

More official and private letters were written to-day, everything being packed (on Sunday evening, 15 May) and despatched by courier the next morning.

Monday, 16 May.

The Governor to-day drew up his Instruction for a commission he intended to appoint to negotiate peace between the Colony and the Kaffirs and rebellious Hottentots. This Instruction (of 33 Articles) with a covering letter was addressed to Mr. D.G. van Reenen, Captain (Ludwig) Alberti and myself, who were to act as members. (It was dated 16 May 1803 and the text forms part of the official correspondence of the journey).

The rest of the day was passed in preparation for a visit the next day to the salt-pans (near the Zwartkops), a wagon being sent this evening to prepare our midday meal in advance.

Tuesday, 17 May.

At dawn our company, accompanied by (Major von Gilten), Capt. Alberti and the Commandants set out for the salt-pans, four hours from here, taking the Graaff-Reinet road. On the way we saw two farms destroyed during the war: everywhere one sees traces of devastation. The inhabitants wander from place to place as the need arises, to graze their surviving flocks. They seem to have become accustomed to this already. One does not ask where does so-and-so live? But, where does so-and-so lie? Where has he trekked to? Does that little group of people still lie here or there?

Crossing the Klein and Groot Zwartkops River, we inspected the salt-pan of which Mr. Barrow has given an accurate description in his book. We had our midday meal here and followed the left bank of the Zwartkops to its mouth, which had the usual sand bank preventing the entry of shipping. The Governor had the misfortune of falling with his horse and landing right under it, luckily without injury to himself.

Wednesday, 18 May.

During a visit of the Commandants to the Governor, he read to them the Instruction for the peace negotiations and they found this most acceptable.

The burghers, Stoltz, Vogel and the others returned to-day from the chiefs Cungwa (Konga, Congo), Ndlambe, Jalusa and Tholie (Tuli). They had not been able to find the Hottentot captains Boesak and (Hans) Trompetter. But the chiefs had promised to be at the Sundays River in five days, i.e. on 21 May, together with (Habana, Ndlambe's nephew). They would try to bring

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Boesak and Trompetter too, and requested the Governor to come thither since they did not dare to come to Algoa Bay.

They had heard that ‘old Mr. Company’ had received the land again; they were under the impression that the Dutch East India Company was a person and king of the Colony. They expressed joy that the white sea-people - the English-had given back the land to Captain Company, but Company must be very old by now, because their ancestors had already known him! They professed a sincere desire for peace, saying that they were living in enmity with the Kaffir king Gaika who often stole their cattle. They had heard that Gaika had requested the burgher (Commandant Hendrik Janse) van Rensburg to launch a concerted attack with him on the Kaffirs to the west of the Fish River. A few minutes after Stoltz, the envoy to Cungwa, turned up, having with him Bootsman Stuurman (brother of Klaas). They were given food and especially brandy, of which they are very fond.

Thursday, 19 May.

The envoy of Cungwa ('t Nacabanée) was given presents, and asked whether he would like to accompany the Governor the next day to his chief. He accepted gratefully. We then took him for a walk, and were amused by his reactions and remarks when shown the ship in the bay and the boats, hearing a gun fired at the fort, seeing the uniforms of the troops and handling a telescope and a watch. He was wearing a brass breastplate bearing the arms of Major-General (Francis) Dundas. This he had received from the Landdrost (H.C.D.) Maynier, who had also given him the name of (Andries Zwartbooi).

The whole day preparations were being made to go to the Sundays River the next day. At five o'clock the train of fourteen wagons left, escorted by 56 chasseurs under Lieutenant (Wilhelm) Alberti, 9 dragoons under Lieutenant Gilmer and a large number of young burghers.

Friday, 20 May.

The Governor departed, accompanied by Major von Gilten, Capt. Alberti and the Surgeon-Major (J.H.F.C.L.W.) Wehr (of the Waldeck Batallion). Where we halted at the Koega, the Governor was agreeably surprised by the arrival of (Zacharias) van Jaarsveld and four burghers (of Graaff-Reinet), who told of the joy of the colonists there at the return of the Colony to Dutch rule; they also announced that one hour further on we would meet (Commandant) van Rensburg with 200 men, coming to meet the Governor. Van Jaarsveld had also spoken to Coenraad de Buys. Gaika wished to meet the Governor and would come to the Fish River for this purpose.

A little further on we met van Rensburg and his men, and the Governor spoke to many of them of his aims and his desire for the restoration of peace and happiness. Everybody seemed well pleased and we all camped together on the (right) bank of the Sundays River (on the farm Toukoetarie), near Klaas Stuurman's kraal.

In the evening van Rensburg came to dine with the Governor and

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confirmed what the Kaffir chiefs had said, namely, that Gaika had asked him to start a united attack on those to the west of the Fish River. He had given no reply, wishing to learn first the desire of his new and legitimate government.

Saturday, 21 May.

Our camp on the high bank of the river, with the flag of Holland waving before the Governor's tent, presents an attractive sight; it has the appearance of a small encamped army.

The Governor had a long conversation with van Rensburg, who knows Kaffirland, to inform him of his aims, and explained that he wished first to make peace with this nation and then, if possible, to restore order and happiness to the Colony internally. This burgher seems to approve most heartily of the intentions of the Governor and we could only wish for the united support of all the others.

On this occasion, van Rensburg submitted to the Governor a list of the names and the number of the farms burnt or destroyed during the Kaffir invasion.

Klaas Stuurman visited the camp, as did Cungwa's envoy Nacabanée, who had meanwhile been to his own kraal. He reported that Cungwa had been waiting across the river since the previous day, for the other chiefs to join him.

Sunday, 22 May.

The Governor wrote a letter to the Commandant-General of the colonists, Botha, and the other Commandants, on the subject of losses of property in the late disturbances, impressing upon them that the Government would do whatever possible to assist, but could never undertake to offer complete compensation. Furthermore, it would be unwise to insist upon the return of cattle now in the possession of the Kaffirs as a right, and to risk a renewal of war, new losses and interminable further destruction.

Commandant Botha had crossed the river to discover why Cungwa and the others did not appear. He now reported that he had found Cungwa three hours from here, and had had a most friendly reception. The only cause of the delay, was the fact that the other captains had not arrived yet. Cungwa was most desirous of peace. Commandant Botha pointed out to him that under the new government there was more unity among the colonists than under the English, and our military power was thus greater. He seemed to appreciate this point.

This afternoon the visiting Kaffirs in the camp regaled us with a dance, and some demonstrated the use of the assegai. But they seemed either to hide their art on purpose or to throw less accurately than we had expected. We gained the impression that an approaching assegai could easily be warded off with a stick; their furthest throwing distance was sixty yards, and inaccurately at that.

Monday, 23 May.

Tholie appeared this morning, accompanied by Tzatsoe and some twenty Kaffirs. The visit was apparently inspired only by inquisitive-

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ness and the desire for presents. By noon they departed again to Cungwa's kraal, promising to bring him next day.

During the morning the Governor conferred again with the commission for the peace negotiations, the burgher Commandants being also present, including Van Rensburg and (Johannes) Strijdom, both from Graaff-Reinet. For their benefit the Instruction was read again and explained.

The Governor and officers visited Klaas Stuurman's kraal on horseback. The Governor tried to ascertain the causes of his rebellion and he, in his reply, blamed the cruelties committed by burghers for his action. The names he mentioned were-strangely enough-the same which had been mentioned unfavourably to the Governor while still in Cape Town.

Tuesday, 24 May.

Firstly Commandant Botha and Stoltz were sent once more to persuade the chiefs to come into the camp. Then Capt. Alberti and I and two burgher Commandants were deputed, but in vain. They now insisted that the Governor should cross the river to their side. This also the Governor conceded, provided they were there next morning at nine o'clock.

Wednesday, 25 May.

Though he had become indisposed during the night, the Governor nevertheless prepared to cross to the appointed place. But he had to wait an hour on the plain before the interpreters could persuade them to appear, creeping apprehensively from the bushes. Cungwa shook hands with the Governor and Tholie, Jalusa, Ndlambe and Tzatsoe did likewise before sitting down in a half-circle on the ground.

The Governor tried to reassure them as to the safety of entering the camp, but they remained suspicious. One cause of this was the presence of Salomon Ferreira (brother of Thomas), who had ridden along with us without any authorisation.

In vain it was attempted to make them understand that peace could not be negotiated within a few minutes. They were satisfied that peace had been concluded and were preparing to leave. The Governor was now so ill that he could hardly speak and had to return to the camp. Mr. van Reenen, Capt. Alberti and some commandants accompanied me to get the chiefs to return. We brought them to a halt, and they began to speak more freely. They repeated their fear of Europeans acting with De Buys and Gaika to destroy them (from two sides), and declared that they wished to become reconciled with Gaika. Yet they would not give envoys to accompany us to Gaika.

They now again wished to return. At this stage the Governor decided to leave the negotiations to the colonists, and to become a spectator. Mr. van Reenen, Commandant Botha and (Commandant Jacobus) Linde were given the Instruction to guide them, and returned to the place where the chiefs were, raising in the discussion only such articles of the Instruction as were considered expedient.

Stuurman seems to be disposed to keep his promise of promoting peace.

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This evening, Hans Trompetter, who belongs to the following of Bouvezak (Boesak), arrived. He was sent back to Boesak who was enjoined to appear before the Governor to receive pardon. Failing this, he would be outlawed as a robber and rebel.

Thursday, 26 May.

Mr. van Reenen and the Commandants rode to the other side again this morning to finalise certain points and mainly to persuade the chiefs to send three or four emissaries with us to Gaika. To this they at last agreed, but gave only one-a bastard Plaatje. They could not be persuaded to come to the camp to take leave of the Governor, or even to receive their presents. Only Tholie and a young chief came; the others sent envoys to fetch theirs. Stuurman, who had been along on the mission to the chiefs to-day, also received as a present the same brass plate as the chiefs, mirrors, knives, beads and bric-à-brac.

Friday, 27 May.

We returned to Algoa Bay by the same route as we had come.

Saturday, 28 May.

The Governor this morning wrote to Mr. van Reenen (concerning the allocation of a site for Dr. van der Kemp, and other matters). His Honour conferred with Commandant van Rensburg on the further route of our journey and other affairs. Some colonists received leave to return to their homes and one of them, Ignatius Muller, was appointed field-cornet of this ward. This evening the Governor had a long conversation with Dr. van der Kemp on arrangements for the Hottentots and the siting of his Institute, for which a suitable location was to be sought the next day. This could not take place, however, since it was Whitsuntide.

Sunday, 29 May.

Thomas Ignatius Ferreira came to ask leave of the Governor to go to the Gamtoos to harvest wheat. He was told to await here a decision on the matter.

The Governor wrote to Gabriel Stoltz regarding the return of colonists to their farms abandoned during the troubles, also to Major von Gilten and Dr. van der Kemp, and letters were given to the pilot of De Verwachting returning (overland) to Cape Town.

The wagons were inspected for repairs that might be necessary.

Monday, 30 May.

The whole day was taken up with correspondence, amongst others a letter to the Commissioner-General, to which was annexed a copy of the resolution to banish Ferreira and his family (and Jan Adam Rens).

Authorised by the General, Mr. van Reenen in the company of the Commandants Botha, van Rooyen, the burgher (Gerhardus) Oosthuysen and the missionary Read, selected (the farm Roodepan) between Ferreira's farm and that of the widow Scheepers as a site for the Institute of the Hottentot school.

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This grant was confirmed by letter by the Governor to Dr. van der Kemp, and, at the latter's request, given the name of Bethelsdorp.

Tuesday, 31 May.

(Thomas Ferreira and J.A. Rens appeared before the Governor to receive the resolutions of exile from the district). Gerhardus Oosthuysen received a grant of land beyond the Baakens River.

Wednesday, 1 June.

The wagons were loaded up for the journey and set out at one o'clock. Various matters were attended to (and a resolution drafted yesterday was issued, forbidding the taking into service of Kaffirs by the colonists). Dr. van der Kemp wrote to the Governor expressing his thanks for the grant of a site for the Institute.

Thursday, 2 June.

In leaving Algoa Bay we made a detour to visit Bethelsdorp. I take this opportunity of referring again to the subject of the missionary van der Kemp and his Institute. His abode is a miserable little hut build of mud and reeds and his colleague is a young Englishman Read, who has married a Hottentot woman. The only furniture I saw on my visit to him were two low bedsteads made of the skins of cattle stretched over frames, a rickety table and two stools. I found the old man lying on one of these beds under a covering of sheepskins sewn together and wearing only a rough blue, striped linen shirt, a coarse woollen jacket and trousers. His nobly-formed bald pate was resting on a wooden block covered with sheepskin; his features show the signs of the many vicissitudes of his life, of sorrow and of age.

He was glad to see civilized beings and a European. When I told him at the outset that I was related to him (through my wife) and gave him tidings of relatives in Europe, he could not restrain his tears.

I spent two hours with him. All he could offer were canned figs, which were very tasty. I asked him why he preferred such a hard way of life at his age to a comfortable existence befitting his means, but soon observed that in spite of his intellectual abilities he showed a strong tendency towards fanaticism. He assured me that he found the company of people nauseating. The task of bringing lost fellow-beings to Christendom had been laid upon him from Heaven, he assured me, and he would fulfill it to the end of his days. He was content to be deprived of all worldly comforts.

Changing the subject, I offered him, on behalf of the General, articles of furniture and provisions. He would accept nothing, except a quantity of red wine for the Communion of his Hottentots, stating that any additional comforts would be only an encumbrance to him. Nor did he want bed or mattress.

In dry weather, he said, he had his bedstead brought out of the hut and enjoyed an invigorating sleep under the dome of heaven. So I made no further offers. When we parted, he pressed my hand requesting to correspond with me when I should have returned to Cape Town.

The so-called Church or School, where the Hottentots attend twice a day

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at the ringing of a little bell, is a long hut of mud, with a thatched roof of reeds, and openings for air and light. Men, women and children attend this school and spend the rest of the day idly, digging ‘uintjies’ (edible bulbs) or hunting or sleeping, to which they are greatly addicted.

Thus they become an indolent community while they could have provided sadly-needed labour for the farmers, under fair and proper guarantees of service. With the colonists they could have been trained in Christian religion, while now they listen to a prayer and catechism like apes, and the word Amen, which they repeat aloud, they regard as the signal to rush out of the church door at the risk of breaking their necks, for the purpose of lying down to sleep till hunger or the next ringing of the little bell rouses them.

Much more could be attained if funds collected from religious people in Holland were used rather to import school teachers, from whose teaching also the Hottentots could profit, instead of cultivating a great number of idle persons, who together form a threat to order and a potential danger should they make common cause with an enemy landing at Algoa Bay, so far distant from the capital. I now return to the narrative of our journey.

We had our midday meal at the Koega, but on the next stage to the Sundays River held a course closer to the sea. We camped on the banks of the river.

Friday, 3 June.

Two messengers (Zacharias) van Jaarsveld and (Frans) Kruger were sent on ahead, with presents for Gaika and the instruction to announce to him and Coenraad de Buys, that the Governor was approaching the Fish River.

Game was very plentiful in the eighteen or nineteen hours of undulating and well-watered country between the Sundays and Bushmans River. The hunters had a field day, saw thousands of springbok and shot fifty-four of these as well as twelve hartebeest. Mr. van Reenen and I hunted a herd of fifty quagga, a sort of wild horse, light-brown in colour and striped dull black on lightbrown as the zebra has black on white, and with a black stripe along the back from the mane to the tail. Mr. van Reenen shot one, but we had to leave it overnight since we were too far from the wagons. During the night the wolves saved us the trouble of skinning it, as we had intended.

By seven o'clock we pitched our tents near the Bushman's River after a very long day's trek which exhausted our oxen, cattle and horses.

Saturday, 4 June.

We remained in camp during the morning to rest our animals. Among a horde of visiting Kaffirs from a near-by kraal, we saw some who were pock-marked. They say the small-pox was in the land some years ago and claimed many victims. For copper plate and beads we bartered assegais from them. They were most surprised at the working of a watch we showed them, expressing their wonder by means of a long, drawn-out whistle in which the whole crowd joined.

In the afternoon we crossed the river (at Rautenbachsdrift) and the Gover-

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nor rode to a Kaffir kraal. We saw how the huts are constructed and how the men work at shields made of eland skin. We camped on a deserted cattle-farm (Zoetemelksfontein) of the widow (of Gerrit) Scheepers where we found another troop of Kaffirs.

Sunday, 5 June.

The country was open grass-land, becoming more hilly as we went. It was a beautiful day and we had our midday meal in a wild and craggy kloof, at the so-called Hofmansgat, where we heard sounds as of people talking together. It proved to be a large troop of baboons; when a shot was fired there was such pandemonium that some came rolling down the crags and fell to death. We could not catch any alive.

By four o'clock we were encamped at the Nieuwejaarsdrift, a short distance from the confluence of the Bushmans, the Nieuwejaars River and the water from Hofmansgat.

Monday, 6 June.

Our route beyond the drift was through rocky and mountainous country (towards the Zwartewatersberg). We were on the lookout for buffalo and elephant. By noon we found the tracks of a rhinoceros, which we tried to hunt in the dense bush. Instead of finding it, we found a very large buffalo. It was wounded and then killed as it stormed about, while we took cover in all directions. Shortly afterwards we encountered an elephant which we only wounded slightly before it made off.

We crossed at the Zwartewatersdrift which was dry and camped two hours further on near Bushmans River (at Dirkskraal) at the dung kraal of (Dirk?) van Schalkwyk where we saw an enormous heap of cattle-dung which had been on fire for four months, forcing the occupier to leave the farm. We were told that such a dung-heap could smoulder for a year and such a farm could not be lived on in this time.

Tuesday, 7 June.

Continuing our journey east by north-east, we crossed the Little Brak River by noon and travelled through open country where we shot springbok. We spent the night at the farm (Welgevonden?) of Commandant van Rensburg, lying between the Little Brak and Little Fish River, with the Bushmans River farther away to the west, our camp being on a height near the Little Fish River, where we saw different types of indigenous wood growing in the forest.

Wednesday, 8 June.

The strong wind continued from the north-east and later in the day rain came on. We again saw a large number of springbok and amongst them one which was altogether white. This rare specimen (which eventually was exhibited in the Institut National in Paris) was shot by the Commandant Pieter (Gerhardus) Human at close range after he had ridden out and deftly headed off the herd of springbok. About noon we came to the

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first farm (Hartebeestefontein) of the Bruintjeshoogte, which now lay to the left of us. Our camp stood this night on the farm Ziekfontein (Modderfontein, of the field-cornet Georg Diederik Geere).

Thursday, 9 June.

The Commandant (Johannes) Strijdom and others asked for and received leave to return to their farms (near here). Commandant van Rensburg had arranged the day before for fresh relays of oxen from Bruintjeshoogte, Zwagershoek and those parts.

The weather remained rainy and the route was slippery and uneven. After crossing the Little Fish River this afternoon we arrived at the ravaged farm of Willem Prinsloo (at the Boschberg) quite early. We camped near the ruins of the farm buildings.

Friday, 10 June.

This morning one of the sons of the prisoner (Martinus Prinsloo) who had recently been released from the Castle, brought a large number of letters and newspapers for the Governor, including some brought for him from Holland by the Attorney-General, Mr. (Gerard) Beelaerts van Blokland. By eight o'clock we were on the move again: the wagons and leading-horses took the direct road to the (Great) Fish River over (the farm) Kookhuis, less than four hours (to the east) but we rode a wide detour for the purpose of seeing a site intended for a drostdy for a new district when the districts came to be reduced in extent.

Travelling through the mountains, we first came to the devastated and abandoned farm of the field-cornet (Petrus Rasmus) Erasmus where we also found the family of Marthinus Prinsloo, released under the amnesty, who had arrived there that morning. This family and the others with them were most touched to see the places where they once lived and were here to meet the Governor who availed himself of the opportunity to congratulate those returning, and to point out to what causes the recent disasters were to be attributed. He explained the aims of the Government. They assured him that misfortune had made them wiser. Leaving this farm we rode (parallel) and closer to the Boschberg passing the ruined farm (Vinkefontein) of Tregardt (Tregard, Trigardt) and travelling through a park-like landscape resembling a laid-out English garden. The farm of Tregardt seems very suitable for a drostdy, standing close to the Little Fish River, being well-watered with fertile soil and forests in the vicinity for wood to be used by wagon-makers, in other crafts and for building of houses. But a better system of land tenure is called for. There can be no adequate population with homesteads one hour apart.

Passing many deserted loan places in a very pleasant and mountainous region, we came to our camp at the Kookhuis. From here the mountains of Kaffirland already came into view, lying beyond the Great Fish River, which is great only in name and can be waded through here almost dry-shod.

Saturday, 11 June to Tuesday, 14 June.

These days were spent

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hunting, airing the provisions, repairing the wagons and waiting in vain for Gaika and Coenraad de Buys.

Wednesday, 15 June.

This morning the burghers, van Jaarsveld and Kruger, returned from Gaika and de Buys reporting that they had been well received by Gaika who, on account of unrest in his land, did not wish to leave his place of residence. De Buys was on his way, however, bringing three deserters of the 9th Battalion of Chasseurs with him. The Governor ordered a detachment of Dragoons under Capt. Alberti to bring him in and towards noon de Buys arrived, bringing with him an Englishman who professed to be a private traveller from London.

At first sight it appeared to the Governor that his physiognomy did not speak strongly in his favour, this being due to a lack of confidence as appeared from his reticence in answering questions. The burghers crowded round and in the presence of all the Governor delivered a homily, stressing his desire to close the book on the past and to receiving all well-disposed persons back into the Colony.

After this the Dragoons appeared with three deserters from our camp at Wynberg who, on hearing of the Governor's approach, had left the farmers who had been harbouring them, stolen three horses, and entered Kaffirland. They were now being handed over on behalf of Gaika and de Buys.

The Governor later had a conference with de Buys, Mr. van Reenen and I being present. He entered into more detail and asked de Buys his advice on various matters. In reply de Buys said that there was (no) prospect of a peaceful settlement between Gaika and the refugee Kaffirs. Gaika desired the Government to drive the rebels back over the Fish River to be dealt with by their own people.

The Governor resolved to go three days' journey further to the Kat River, believing that Gaika sincerely wished to see him. De Buys had brought twelve Kaffirs, including four chiefs, among them a brother-in-law of Gaika. De Buys said Gaika's mother, Queen of the Tamboekies (AmaTembu), would have come with him all the way to Kookhuis, but he (de Buys) had dissuaded her since, as a subject of the king, she would have had to journey on foot.

Thursday, 16 June.

The Governor this morning assembled the Commandants and the burghers (Jacobus Alewyn) Kruger and (Christoffel Lötter), the latter representing their commandant who was out to attend to the provisioning, and warned against continued disregard of the law, especially regarding the harbouring and employment of deserters.

Meeting Gaika's emissaries, the Governor asked them to announce to Gaika and his mother that he was on his way to the Kat River. They in turn expressed their gratitude for the intended visit.

Friday, 17 June.

Leaving Kookhuis at about ten o'clock we kept on in a

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south-easterly direction over the Great Fish River, the so-called Kaffer(lands)-berg being on our left. We had our midday meal at a little stream (the Koba?) where we saw a horse, lost eight months before on commando. Before reaching the Kaga River that night, one of our wagons overturned and fell 20 feet, delaying our train considerably.

On arrival in camp the theft of cattle by the Kaffirs from the burgher Nantus de Beer, was reported. He had retaken his cattle (at Commandofontein) killing two Kaffirs. It was decided to await the return of Commandant van Rensburg before acting in the matter.

Saturday, 18 June.

Van Rensburg, on his arrival, was of the opinion that the cattle thieves were some of Ndlambe's people who had left him to return to Gaika. Whatever the case may be, this makes the maelstrom of confusion even worse. De Buys laid a whole sheaf of documents on his past actions before the Governor. Van Rensburg likewise presented a letter written in 1798 by an Englishman with de Buys (in Kaffirland).

The Governor this day occupied the time writing dispatches. Mr. van Reenen and I killed a tiger (leopard) which had chased some of the farmers, caught unarmed while out walking.

Sunday, 19 June.

We departed along unmade tracks and over rocky heights. We also saw grassland and abounding game, but on reaching the Koonap we did not travel further that day for fear of not having water.

Monday, 20 June.

After this delay we followed the same course eastwards, making our midday halt at a little stream (the Kroomie?), and arriving at the Kat River by four o'clock at a place studded with thorn-trees.

This evening the Governor read the papers Coenraad de Buys had submitted to him. He had appended a memorandum to justify his own actions. There were various letters, including two written to him during the Graaff-Reinet troubles by the Commandant H.J. van Rensburg.

Tuesday, 21 June.

Hearing that the rendezvous with Gaika was still seven hours further, through trackless country, the Governor decided to await him here and sent de Buys and (Frans) Kruger to him to hurry on his progress towards us as much as possible. Kruger came back this evening, reporting that Gaika was a few hours off, but that his mother, on account of her weight, had lain down exhausted on the way, and we were asked to send a wagon or cart for her.

Wednesday, 22 June.

This strange vehicle was despatched early this morning to Her Tambookie Majesty, while the Governor drew up points he wished to put to Gaika and submitted these beforehand to the burgher commandants and Mr. van Reenen. They accepted these without comment. Kruger

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came this evening to say that Gaika would arrive the next morning and had requested an escort of officers.

Thursday, 23 June.

By order of the Governor, I rode to meet Gaika, accompanied by Capt. Alberti, Lieut. Gilmer and some Dragoons. We also took (by Gaika's request) the ‘musician’, the Dragoon who blows the French horn. On seeing us he had eyes only for the man with the bugle. As we rode he admired the beauty of the horse I was riding, and the shining shoes on the hooves. I promised him an old set when we arrived at the camp. At a long whistle from Gaika the whole cavalcade broke into a canter and we entered the camp like a troop of boisterous clowns: Gaika in the lead on his lean old nag, his mother and four women on the cart.

Gaika is a young man of some twenty-six. He went to the General's tent and politely shook hands. In the conference with the General he displayed spirit, determination and character and, for a Kaffir, an unusually intelligent grasp of affairs. His mother, though of advanced age, showed the same qualities. The clothing of Gaika and his mother differed little from that of the other Kaffirs. They ate at our table and Gaika watched to see how we used spoon, knife and fork. Then he did the same as if used to it all his life. The meal they found excellent, Gaika handing food to his chiefs whenever he had a goodly portion on his plate. The women had a healthy appetite and drank a lot of Cape wine. Digging into our wardrobes we fitted out our guests this evening: a blue jacket of mine for Gaika from a uniform the General particularly disliked; a night-gown of printed cotton from Mr. van Reenen to the Queenmother; a black silk coat, yellow Nanking pantaloons, a pair of military boots from the General to Gaika, and a soldier's shirt for each of the women. They were well pleased and paraded their finery before their subjects. Gaika greatly admired the General's plumed hat and his ‘karos’, meaning the cloak, which he would also have liked to possess.

Friday, 24 June.

The second conference took place this morning. Contrary to expectation, Gaika discarded the European trappings and appeared before the Governor, officers and Commandants in his royal leopard-skin with beads and a crown of white beads on his head, demonstrating his dignity as an independent ruler. He had his numerous following behind him and the interpreters were Coenraad de Buys and a Bonaqua Hottentot named Hendrik. Gaika spoke quietly and sensibly, conferring with his councillors in between questions put to him.

In his replies he exhibited far greater proof of statecraft than one would ever expect from a primitive man. Then again he would jump up to whistle in admiration at the precise movements of the soldiers changing the guard outside the gate, and immediately afterwards resume his seat in the conference. So, at length, a series of articles of agreement came into being.

Nothing on our journey was as important as these negotiations with the

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Kaffirs. Gaika and his mother both showed by their ingenious answers that they had some idea of government. One reason for their reluctance to make peace with the rebels (beyond the Fish River) was that those had wounded Gaika with assegais-to violate the majesty of the king, was an unpardonable offence, to be expiated only by the penalty of death.

Gaika lodged a detailed complaint of a murder committed upon one of his Kaffirs by (Johannes Jurgen) Bezuidenhout. After the conferences, the presents were handed over, Gaika unselfishly distributing these among his chiefs and womenfolk, and sending in return four oxen to the General as a gesture of peace. His features testify to a good character and it is to be hoped that he will regard it as being in his own interest to observe the agreement and his own promises.

During our stay among the numerous tribes of Kaffirs, I had an opportunity to gather information regarding their land, way of living, and other matters relating to this nation. These facts I deemed important enough to accord a place in this journal (recapitulated very briefly by means of the following headings).

They must have come to this land from elsewhere, probably the North. A description of their physical appearance and comparison with Bushmen and Hottentots. The Kaffir seemed contented in his state and showed respect for his chiefs. He practiced a primitive agriculture and existed mainly by animalhusbandry. Gaika's power had grown since Barrow met him some years before, and he spoke with confidence. He had a legitimate claim to paramountcy, tracing his authority from (one Tshiwo) and had, with the help of his mother, maintained his position against the usurper, his uncle Ndlambe. The internal disturbances in Kaffirland resulting from this struggle had also affected the Colony.

A description of the Kaffir costume: the use of skins for clothing, beads, copper, ostrich egg-shells, jackal-tails and ivory. The customs of marriage and domestic life among the Kaffirs. The value of female children as an asset to the father. The raising of the young, circumcision in practice and initiation ceremonies. The primitive conception of a Supreme Being, Heaven, angels, religion, among the Kaffirs. The power of the witch-doctors among them. The incidence of disease among them, and their freedom from epidemics, with the exception of outbreaks of small-pox in the past, brought into the country by ships. The habits of the Kaffirs regarding the aged in their tribe and their procedure when death occurs in the kraal. The characteristics of the Kaffir language, which is less unpleasant than that of the Hottentots and does not contain so many clicks of the tongue.

The small vocabulary (of 34 entries, mostly numerals) which Barrow gives in his book, are incorrect. This could hardly be otherwise, since Barrow had to put his questions in English, to be translated into Dutch, then into Hottentot, and eventually into Kaffir, and back in the same way. Thus the words altogether lose their meaning, sound and pronunciation. My task was easier, since I

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obtained a Kaffir (Xhosa) equivalent immediately for a Dutch word from colonists who hed fled to Kaffirland. Thus I have been able to draw up a much more accurate and extensive collection which follows here without omission. The words illustrate the degree of mental development of the Kaffirs and the concepts approximating to civilization. One could even make deductions from this list regarding their ideas of religion, but I prefer to leave this to experts and give below (the 180 words with their Dutch equivalents).

Next, the weapons of the Kaffirs: the making of shields from hides, the assegai and the way in which it is used, especially in hunting. A description of the knob-stick (kerrie) which resembles a club and is also used to kill game and birds at a distance. The working by the Kaffir of iron obtained from rocks, from wrecked ships, and that which is bartered or stolen from the Colonists, to fashion assegais. A description of the Kaffir method of smelting iron from native rock by means of a hollowed-out white ant-heap and home-made bellows. The process of hammering the glowing iron with stones attached to wooden handles till a thin plate is obtained to make the blade of an assegai, which is then scoured to the proper shape.

The Kaffirs love gew-gaws of all kinds which they are only too eager to obtain in exchange for ivory bangles, rings, assegais and kerries. They prize razors above all.

Never did we have the slightest unpleasantness while among the Kaffirs and we regretted leaving them. I leave them, too, to resume my narrative of the journey.

Saturday, 25 June.

This morning Coenraad de Buys came to take leave of the Governor, returning to where he lived in Kaffirland in order to make arrangements to come back soon to the Colony.

Our route back was the same as on the journey here. The Commandants Linde and Human shot an eland, largest of the antelope species, weighing up to seven or eight hundred pounds. These animals when wounded, sometimes charge the hunter with their formidable horns levelled. We roasted eland loin for the midday meal at a little stream, but the strong wind set fire to the surrounding dry grass and bush at our camp and likewise to that of the colonists. The two fires approaching each other, threatened oxen, wagons and horses. We saddled and made off just in time, losing some equipment, including my sword which I got back afterwards with the sword-knot and cord burnt off entirely. An hour afterwards we had another experience; a swarm of locusts which lasted a quarter of an hour and forced us to dismount, wrap our cloaks around us and shelter our faces against the horses. The insects lay some three inches thick on the ground and as we moved forward in this mess the Hottentots gathered sacks full of the ugly creatures which they string on sprigs and roast as a delicacy! By five o'clock we were at our camp on the Koonap River.

Sunday, 26 June.

This morning we continued to the Kaga River where

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we had the midday meal. Here the Commandants Botha and Human left us with the men of their commandos (to return over Kookhuis to the Langkloof). The Commandants were moved when they left and so were we since both they and their young men by their genteel and courteous behaviour in all respects gave the Governor cause for satisfaction. The oxen of Commandants Human and Linde were exhausted and they took a shorter route, to meet us again at Graaff-Reinet. This night our camp stood in an open plain on a deserted farm (Vleyplaats?) of Prinsloo, granted during the Graaff-Reinet disturbances. In Graaff-Reinet we shall try to discover why farms were ever granted to far beyond the Great Fish River.

This evening we saw an unusual, bright blue circle around the moon. Everyone in our company declared that they had never seen the like before.

Monday, 27 June.

Continuing towards the north-west we encountered on the way many colonists with their families and countless herds encamped in groups at several smaller rivers, and all on their way back to their abandoned farms. It was good to be among people again, and a pleasant sight to see their camps and innumerable cattle. The Governor who visited them all, was received courteously and was offered milk, fresh bread and whatever they had available.

To an English deserter who had been here eight years and had married the daughter of a colonist, leave was granted to stay, but he has to report to the Landdrost of Graaff-Reinet.

This evening we camped at the Kromme River where one Jacobus Erasmus and his party were lying. Here we found the burgher Johannes Bezuidenhout who was summoned before the Governor. He strongly denied the accusations (of Gaika) regarding the murder of a Kaffir.

Tuesday, 28 June.

Still going north-west (over the Daggaboersnek) we again met a large number of returning Colonists and crossed the Great Fish River. To the left was Zwagershoek, where the Little Fish River has its origin, in front of us the lofty Sneeuwbergen, to the right the Tarka. Before the second crossing of the river we stopped for the day on the farm (Van Stadensdam) of the Commandant (Hendrik) van Rensburg. The numerous families assembled here received the Governor most deferentially, bringing whatever they had to offer us as a meal.

Wednesday, 29 June.

Owing to heavy rain we left at half-past ten only, crossing the Fish River twice and arriving in the afternoon at (Buffelskloof) the farm of Pieter (Schalk) van Heerden, the first inhabited farm we saw that day.

Thursday, 30 June.

Our direction from here was northwards (over the farms Driefontein and Rietfontein), the road being very slippery and rocky in places. On the river we found two strong, sulphurous hot-springs. Since

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yesterday we had the Spek(boom)bergen in view, three flat-topped mountains like tables, where we now stopped at midday. Barrow mentions saltpetre rocks found here; we looked for these, but found only a nitrous coating on some rocks, and samples of brown ochre.

We looked in vain for rock paintings of Bushmen. All the colonists assure us that among the animals on such paintings they had seen the unicorn, always drawn in the same way. Coenraad de Buys had declared when he spoke to us of this that he had often seen these unicorns in Kaffirland. The Governor promised to whomsoever delivered a unicorn, dead or alive, or the skeleton of one, at Cape Town, a reward of a thousand rixdollars and a beautiful, new wagon with a team of twelve of the best oxen.

Over a stony road we reached the farm (Groene Vallei of Willem Jacobus van Heerden, son of Izak), situated in a very rocky part, with hardly any green vegetation to be seen. The Governor had occasion here to reprimand a burgher who had harboured deserters, and he was ordered to produce by sunrise next morning two others who were still being employed here. (As had happened on the previous day), another English deserter appeared.

Friday, 1 July.

The two deserters appeared at half-past five and were handed over for questioning to Capt. Alberti and Lieut. Gilmer. On our journey we crossed several tributaries of the Fish River (on our way through the Achtersneeuwberg) in barren and boulder-strewn country where the soil is of yellowish clay. So we arrived at the farm (Langekloof) of the heemraad Louis van Wyk, where several colonists and their wives had come to see the Governor. From here we continued (past Spitskopvlei) to the foot of the (Wapadsberg) which we would have to cross the next day.

As usual by now, three English deserters turned up, and one who had belonged to Col. R.J. Gordon's troops (of before 1795). They were granted the usual conditional permit to remain in the Colony.

Saturday, 2 July.

In crossing the mountain we saw in the distance the so-called Compasberg, towering above all other peaks (of the Sneeuwbergen). At a side stream on the descent (to the Sundays River) we met the Commandant (Johannes Petrus) van der Walt, and the burgher (Marthinus Wessel) Pretorius who invited us to spend the night at his farm. We had three more hours travelling during which we frequently crossed the Sundays River, where thorn trees and Karoo-bush grew thickly along the banks. Our journey to-day had covered thirteen hours in all and we arrived late at night at Drie Koppen.

Sunday. 3 July.

There were more crossings of the Sundays River to-day on our last stage to Graaff-Reinet, forty-one in all since yesterday. On the way the Governor stopped to visit the widow of the burgher commandant Tjaart van der Walt (killed on August 8, last year). Near the town we were welcomed

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by three of the heemraden, elderly men but of decent appearance. The Governor was received with a salute of twenty-one shots from three two-pounders.

At the drostdy-an unattractive mud building but habitable-the burgher commandant (Friedrich Carl David G[e]rotz) in the company of heemraden, field-cornets and burghers received the General. The inhabitants brought dishes from all quarters for our plentiful midday meal. The town consists of a single street with houses and gardens on either side and the church at the head of it.

Monday, 4 July.

The Governor spoke on various matters to a large number of servants and burghers of the district. Deputies of the church council requested him to inspect the damaged state of the church building (in which coloured troops had been quartered by the British). He did so, and foundno more than the messy state one would expect to see in buildings occupied by troops. The burghers do not seem to realise that those responsible for the order to occupy the church, would have to bear the cost of repair. But the Governor took the opportunity, when he had them together inside the church, to enjoin them once more to lay aside their internal squabbles for the sake of the public weal.

He told them that the quartering of troops in the largest building in a town was a common-place event which had occurred in Europe hundreds of times in the past years. This constituted no claim to government-aid, and certainly not in a case where the government had been compelled to send troops to quell disturbances among the local inhabitants and to restore order, as had been the case here. They seemed to accept this, thereupon merely asking, and receiving permission to commence the repair of the church as soon as they should know the government's decision on the future of the district, and the filling of the vacancy in the ministry of the church here.

Tuesday, 5 July.

Like the day before, much time was spent with correspondence.

A multitude of complaints, to which were appended the declarations and testimonials customary in this country, were read by the General. Since the Commissioner-General had granted a general pardon for all crimes arising from factional disputes, this whole pile of papers was laid aside once and for all.

Through the part they had played respectively in the recent disturbances, the two commandants van der Walt and van Rensburg were certainly not on friendly terms, and each had been accumulating for years stacks of declarations and letters against the other. The Governor reasoned with each of them separately, stressing that only through internal unity could happiness be restored in the land.

This afternoon he brought them together, declaring that he would hold no inquiry, being content with every man who in future remained loyal to his legal government and who wished to promote the interests of his country.

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He suggested that they bury the past. They were prepared to do this, shook hands, and, as a token of their resolve, exchanged papers and committed to the fire all evidences of their enmity.

A meeting of heemraden was summoned for the next morning.

Wednesday, 6 July.

Mr. van Reenen and I accompanied the Governor to the meeting with the heemraden at the drostdy. He addressed them and handed them a memorandum for their consideration and report.

In the afternoon correspondence was attended to, chiefly the Governor's report to the Commissioner-General on the Kaffir negotiations, with appended copies of documents, and of the Governor's resolution (of 1 June, in Algoa Bay) regarding employment of Kaffirs by the colonists. Further letters to the Commissioner-General dealt with the drostdy building at Graaff-Reinet, the Hottentot institution of Dr. van der Kemp, a letter to Major von Gilten on negotiations with the Kaffirs and, finally, a resolution issued to-day to the heemraden against vagabonds, deserters and criminals.

Thursday, 7 July.

In a meeting of the burgher commandants of Graaff-Reinet this morning, the Governor reported to them the meeting of the previous day with the heemraden, repeating his plea for unity in their own ranks if peace, order and prosperity were to be restored to their district of Graaff-Reinet.

The Governor spent the evening writing, amongst others, a letter to the commandant Gerotz (acting as) landdrost here, confirming him in this post provisionally.

Friday, 8 July.

The Governor concluded his letters which were to be sent to Cape Town. This evening there was a friendly gathering of the heemraden at the Governor's for the sake of clearing up certain points in the memorandum handed to them (on Wednesday). Firstly they considered that it did not befit their dignity as burghers to act as escort to Cape Town for the person (J. Robbertsz) detained here on a charge of murder. The Governor explained that it was in no way a degrading duty; on the contrary, it was a civic obligation which could not be refused. Another point in question was the state of the district accounts. Owing to the confusion during the troubles, the heemraden bore no knowledge of the state of affairs and felt that they should not be made responsible for providing the accounts. They were thus permitted to call upon the official concerned to give the information required.

Saturday, 9 July.

Instructions were given by the General to Lieut. Gilmer to prevent the recurrence of instances of disorderliness among our Hottentots (of the wagon-train).

Capt. Alberti noted the thermometer readings from Algoa Bay to Graaff-Reinet, which list I have added to this journal, as well as a list (of my own) of

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(fifteen) species of (indigenous) wood which we came across on the journey to this place.

As we wished to continue our journey again the next day, the wagons were packed and accounts were paid. Several residents came to see the General on various affairs.

Sunday, 10 July.

Late in the forenoon we departed on the next stage of our travels which was to take us over the Sneeuwbergen to the Rhenosterbergen, thence to the Orange River, especially to see the Bushmen and to negotiate with their captains. It will probably be the most important task of an honest government to alleviate the lot of the native peoples: at Graaff-Reinet a Hottentot came to complain that he had bartered a little Bushman from the mother for a handkerchief, and a resident had since robbed him of this child. A Hottentot woman complained that her child, just over two years old, had died that morning from a beating and maltreatment by her master. These complaints were referred to field-commandant Gerotz for thorough inquiry.

Leaving the town we went on ahead of our wagons, which were not ready yet, but soon discovered that among those on horse-back there was no one who knew the route. Yet we went on, trusting that we were following the same road by which we had come and would find the route by ourselves. But we got lost and, after seven hours in the saddle, arrived after dark and in a drenched state at (Babylonstoren) the farm of (Petrus Jacobus) Pretorius (Senior).

Our wagons did not turn up that night and we had no comforts whatsoever. Our plight was made worse by the fact that the owner was absent and no arrangements had been made to receive us.

We were thus compelled to spend a miserable night huddled around a fire in a single dirty room, having as company an old German invalid ex-soldier, an old slave, another who was a deaf mute, a third who was blind of one eye, a young, untrained slave, and a captured young Bushman girl.^⋆ We longed to quit this wretched place.

⋆ English version in extenso of this day's entry of the Paravicini journal in Lichtenstein (Van Riebeeck Society, No. 11, Cape Town, 1930, pp. 8-10).

Monday, 11 July.

Word came that our wagons, having been delayed by a minor mishap, were approaching slowly along slippery roads in the rain. When they arrived, our privations ended and we went on to the foot of the Sneeuwbergen, seeing snow on the mountain tops as we approached.

In our camp (at Quaggasfontein?) we were visited by Piet Pretorius on whose farm we had spent such a bad night. He had expected us on his ‘legplaats’, another farm where everything had been prepared. The Governor expressed his indignation that (as had happened the night before) he and others had been given to eat the meat of sheep that had died of disease, food which in Europe would not have been offered to the lowliest society. Pretorius protested

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once more that this had happened without his knowledge. The Governor treated the visitor very coolly, nevertheless.

Tuesday, 12 July.

Ascending the Sneeuwbergen we arrived in the mountains at the cattle-farm (Blaauwe Water) of the same Pretorius. We had the midday meal at the empty farmhouse where we found the family of the commandant Johannes (Petrus) Van der Walt who accompanied us from here.

The road for the wagons was in a bad state and progress was slow. Those of us on horseback went on ahead, reaching the house of Johannes Jacob (Kruger) on the farm (Jagtpoort?) by late afternoon. It was deserted, as are most houses of cattle-farms on the Sneeuwbergen, and it was bitterly cold, with a biting wind blowing the driving snow in our faces. There was lightning and peals of thunder. Our wagon did not turn up but we fortunately had enough firewood to alleviate our discomfort during the night.

The hills all around are totally bare and stony but with high grass among the farm buildings in this season. The main building is a rectangular mud house with low walls, five feet in height, under a reed-thatch over rough timbers, being the branches of trees, strung in place with thongs of hide. There are openings for a door and two windows, the latter closed with frames fashioned of spars of branches. As there is a separate hut or ‘kookhuis’ outside for cooking, the house has no chimney. We made a fire in the centre of the mud floor, the smoke escaping through the holes in the roof and the window-openings.

Wednesday, 13 July.

At length our wagons arrived and the journey was continued in weather even worse and colder than the day before. Passing over (Vischgat), another farm of Kruger, with empty buildings but which were better, we had the Rhenosterberg to our left and Tafelberg on the right. We spent a comfortable night on a cattle-farm (Schoonbeeksfontein?) of Petrus Venter (son of Hendrik) whose brother, the field-cornet (Jacob) Venter, travelling with us, broke open the empty house for us. We had occasion again to notice how a certain class of people responds to good treatment. Everywhere the Governor orders and requests Hottentots to be treated well. He sets the example by paying his own considerably better than good servants in Europe, and providing food and clothing generously. And yet they filch the food from our table. Most of them, it should be added, are bastards who had been soldiers under the English, had lost the good qualities of the Hottentot, and had adopted some of the weaknesses of Christians.

The owner of the farm arrived this evening to pay his respects.

Thursday, 14 July.

In continuing to the north-east this morning we had the Roodebergen ahead of us, the Compasberg to our left and (the prominent hill like a tea-pot), the Theebus, on our right. Passing several farms, some deserted, we came by noon to De Drie Fonteinen of Nicolaas van der Walt (brother of the Commandant J.P. and the late Tjaart van der Walt). The

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owner of this farm, which lies on the watershed from where the rivers (towards the south and those to the Orange River) have their origin, received the Governor with the customary salute.

After the midday meal, we were joined by more local colonists on our further journey along a good road over an open plain to the Commandant van der Walt's farm Wolvenkop where we saw a tame Bushman family. This evening we had venison, tasty smoked eland sirloin, and learnt that the eland had been shot for us by the commandant's son (Petrus Jacobus) a boy of twelve. The father related how the boy had very bravely saved his life three years before, when less than ten years old. He had shot a wounded lion which had jumped at the horse of his father, striking its claws into the man's thigh and the flank of the horse. In telling the story of the boy's deed of heroism, the commandant showed us the terrible scars on his thigh. So impressed was the Governor, that he presented the boy with one of our best hunting-rifles.

Friday, 15 July.

Descending through the Roodeberg we saw for the first time in the far distance some gnus (called by the colonists [blaauw] wildebeest on account of its wild and wonderful capers). One of the farmers found a quagga foal. By two o'clock the General was at the cattle-farm of commandant Johannes van der Walt at the Caroluspoort. But Mr. van Reenen, Dr. Passet and I had got lost on the way while following a large herd of hartebeest. We only found the camp long after dark, having meanwhile had to light a signal-fire and fire many shots which at length brought us to one of van der Walt's wagons and to the camp where the General had become very anxious about us.

Saturday, 16 July.

Going northwards from Caroluspoort, our company hunted eland and shot seventeen which had to be picked up by the wagons. For this reason we decided to stay over at the place where we had our midday stop, Venter(s)fontein (in the hills behind the Roodeberg).

Sunday, 17 July.

We continued to the north-east, descending all the time. To our left were the mountains (beyond the Zeekoe[y] River) where the Governor Van Plettenberg's beacon is to be found; ahead of us was the To(o)verberg. We stopped at midday at Van der Waltsfontein. Bontebok and more eland were shot here, including two bulls, each weighing some 900 pounds, yet the colonists had seen bigger specimens.

By means of fires which he lit in several places, Commandant van der Walt enticed three or four Bushmen to us in order to show them to the Governor. They devoured pieces of eland-meat given to them almost raw.

Towards evening we reached an opening between two mountains and camped at a large and fine spring, surrounded by reeds.

Monday, 18 July.

This day we reached the Orange River. We bartered

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(from the Bushmen) some bows and poisoned arrows. The poisons, obtained from bulbs, shrubs or snakes, differ according to the sort of game they wish to kill. They use the arrow accurately up to 200 yards and it is a more dangerous weapon than the assegai of the Kaffirs. It is constructed so ingeniously that it cannot fail to be deadly, having a head contrived of a piece of reed, a length of bone and a triangular iron point to which are attached barbed hooks made of splintered shafts of a feather imbedded in the paste of the poison and designed to break off on striking the body in such a way that it cannot be withdrawn. In war they use poison which causes death immediately upon entering the blood-stream.

The Bushmen are small and extremely shrivelled from hunger. The General measured a man of between forty and fifty and found him to be four feet and three inches in height. Their features resemble those of the Hottentots but they are more watchful and canny, probably because they live in a state of alertness and danger. Their language has more click sounds than the Hottentot tongue, but once they must have belonged to the same nation. In colour they are lighter than the Hottentots, some even lighter-coloured than the Spaniards of Teneriffe, especially those who frequent the rivers where they catch fish with reed cages which they make most efficiently. They wander from mountain to mountain, mostly single families, since they have no captain or chief. They stay with killed game till it is consumed, even if half-decomposed by then. White ants, and the eggs of these, are a delicacy with them, while locusts afford a good meal.

Tuesday, 19 July.

From early morning most of our company were out riding up or down the river to look for hippopotami.^⋆ Two of these were wounded and one was killed but floated down the river.

⋆ An English version of this part of the official journal of J.W. Janssens (which corresponds closely with that of Paravicini) occurs in Lichtenstein (Van Riebeeck Society, No. 11, Cape Town, 1930, pp. 50 et seq. and pp. 66-73).

Wednesday, 20 July.

We had intended moving off from the camp, but then news came that the hippopotamus shot the previous day had been spotted lying against the opposite bank. So an attempt was made by some Bushmen with a raft, to get to the carcass. This did not succeed, but in the attempt a freed-slave who had tried to swim over to them, was almost drowned before he got to the Bushmen who took off their own garments to warm him.

What an example to those calling themselves Christians. These goodnatured creatures should not be treated with cruelty. But there is less fear of that here than elsewhere. The inhabitants of the Sneeuwberg, and Rhenosterbergen generally, did not join the disturbances (at Graaff-Reinet) and those with us now are mostly orderly men. To illustrate their attitude towards the Bushmen it can be mentioned that, whereas Barrow could not get within sight of a Bushman and they would never have come near Christians, some inhabi-

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tants have now got them to come up when fires are lit, to receive tobacco and food. An attempt had even been made to set up one as a captain by giving him a stick with a copper knob, as a sign of his authority. But he and his son who succeeded him, unfortunately died soon after each other and the Bushmen brought back the stick saying that it would soon kill them all! Religion they have none, but a belief in sorcerers with power to produce rain, wind and thunder.

Thursday, 21 July.

We again tried unsuccessfully, to get the carcass. The freed-slave was still on the other bank and in returning again almost got drowned, being pluckily saved by one of the Bushmen. The two of them had to be revived with warmed wine.

By ten o'clock we got under way in a south-westerly direction towards the (First) Poort of the Zeekoe River. An hour from there we turned off to visit on horseback a Bushman kraal which the field-cornet Venter kindly pointed out. They came to meet us and were quite unafraid - a tribute to the colonists of these parts. We gave what we had as presents and saw the very primitive way in which they live in hollows in the ground.

Before going into camp (on the bank of the Zeekoe River) we shot some game for our friends the Bushmen. Riding with Mr. van Reenen after a herd of quagga with my gun cocked and lying across the pommel, I had a grievous accident. My horse suddenly stopped in its tracks when Mr. van Reenen reined in in front of me and shot a quagga. I lost my balance, shot over the horse's head and came down with my groin on the cocked hammer of the gun, which went off. Badly injured, half-stunned and singed by the shot, I fell beside the horse.

Greatly concerned, Mr. van Reenen assisted me back to camp where I at first tried to conceal my injury, but when Dr. Passet discovered the terribly swollen and black groin he feared a rupture and put me into compresses and bandages, placing me in a sort of hammock slung in one of the wagons specially emptied for me. So I was taken along like a bird in a cage, suffering excruciating pain over the rocky roads (the next day) but hearing to my relief that there was no rupture and that I could be up and about within eight days.

Friday, 22 July.

Following the (right) bank of the Zeekoe River we began to travel uphill here again and arrived at the Plettenberg Beacon. Of this beacon set up in 1778 by the Governor (Joachim) van Plettenberg to mark the extreme boundary of the Colony (to the north-east) we could still find among the tumbled stones remains (of the slab bearing the coat-of-arms of the Governor).

Here we found a courier from Cape Town bringing to the Governor dispatches dated 25 March at The Hague. His Honour deemed them to be of such moment that he decided to ride post-haste to Cape Town. Taking leave of all, he entrusted to me in my wagon the superintendence of the wagon-train

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and the direction of the further journey, promising at my request not to inform my wife of my misfortune. Dr. Passet had to accompany the Governor, so that I had to content myself with prescriptions and medicines.

Saturday, 23 July.

Anxious now to reach the end of our journey as soon as possible, we left early and came to Boelhouwersdraai, the cattle-farm of Commandant Johannes van der Walt, lying in a bend of the Zeekoe River. It was surprising to see a man of such ample means and possessions living very frugally in a mean reed-hut with his family. But a life of annual movement in search of pasture has inured these people to living without comforts. We thanked the commandant and left with him presents and tobacco to be distributed from time to time among the Bushmen.

By sundown we were at the cattle-farm (Elandsgat?) of (Abraham) Koekemoer on the Zeekoe River, but since the weather was fine we rode on in the moonlight to the farm (Driefontein) of the burgher Maarten Coetzee where we stayed the night.

Sunday, 24 July.

Our course was south-west, crossing a side-stream of the Zeekoe River and travelling over flat country where only little, low bushes grow. For this reason it is called Karoo-ground. At the farm Gordonsfontein of Philip Potgieter we made a brief halt and a deserter was brought to us who professed to be English, but we suspected that he was a Batavian chasseur and took him along. From my swinging cage I had to watch disconsolately the hunters chasing a large herd of gnu, which were too fast for them, and shooting some springbok from a countless multitude.

We arrived at Bokfontein an abandoned cattle-farm of Pieter Ernst (Kruger) now belonging to Louw. Our ranks were by now diminishing. At Potgieter's the Rhenosterberg escort of colonists (under field-cornet Jacob Venter) had turned back. Only the Commandants Linde and Human with their young men remained with us.

Monday, 25 July.

Still going in a south-westerly direction we approached the mountainous spur (of the Sneeuwbergen), halting in the forenoon on Klipvallei (on Klein Tafelberg?) the farm of (Johannes Jacobs[e], son of Pieter) who had just returned from escorting the Governor some distance. After another five hours on the road, we arrived at the farm Zoetevallei aan Zeekoeygat of (Albertus [Bart] Viljoen) to spend the night. He was a one-armed man who told us how he had lost his arm when adjusting the bait in a trap he had set with a gun trained for wolves, and had his arm shattered by jerking too hard on the line. He handed over a letter from the Governor showing that he had passed by yesterday.

Tuesday, 26 July.

Travelling slowly uphill we reached the northern part of the Sneeuwbergen at the place called ‘Africa's Heights’, making good

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progress with the aid of fresh oxen to the farm Koudehoek of (Fredrik) Willem Sagenaar, a very barren and cold spot with snow on the ridges, abandoned by its owner since his kraals had caught alight. We next came to the farms of (the brothers) Piet and Michiel Oberholster, outspanning at the latter's for an hour. He was most hospitable, offering us the midday meal. He told how the Bushmen had recently driven off a great number of his cattle, which he could not recover, though his sons pursued and killed two of the robbers.

(Passing Rhenosterfontein) we saw further on to the south-west, rocks coated with a white layer of saltpetre, and came across a large herd of ostriches. Though we had been told that many lions are found here, up to sixteen or seventeen at a time, we had seen none so far, only hearing their ‘music’ at night.

We pitched our tents near the spring at Kapokfontein where there were some deserted buildings and burning cattle-kraals. During the night we had a visit from two lions. Coming after our oxen and horses, they got entangled in the tent-ropes and caused my tent and that of Mr. van Reenen to collapse while bedlam broke loose in the camp at three o'clock in the morning. I struggled from under the linen where I had been pinned to my bedstead by the fallen tent, to join the throng outside. We could not shoot in the darkness and, meanwhile, the horses and oxen were making a fearsome din. Lighting a bundle of straw, we saw the two lions looking for a way out of the camp. Many shots were fired at them, but they got away.

Wednesday, 27 July.

Travelling westwards from here we at last descended the last spurs of the Sneeuwbergen, reached the open plain and crossed the Buffels (Kariega) River which flows from the Nieuweveldsbergen and later joins the Gamtoos. From a passing burgher we learnt that the Governor would that night be at the Zwarteberg. By half-past five we reached the farm (Brakkefontein) of Carel (Johannes) van Heerden on the Buffels River where we camped and found the heemraad Barend (Jacobus) Burger(s), son of Schalk, who handed over to me the list of the loan places (in Graaff-Reinet district) as requested by the Governor in the meeting at Graaff-Reinet, and indicating their location and occupiers. He remarked that more accurate information would be found in the government records at Cape Town, since the entry of ‘ordinances’ of loan places had been inadequate during the past years, owing to the lack of orderly conduct of affairs at Graaff-Reinet.

Thursday, 28 July.

The rain which had fallen overnight, continued with a strong westerly wind. We completed a long stage in cold weather over a rocky and bumpy road to Kareebosch, also situated on a tributary of the Buffels River. In the rain we camped on the western bank amid the karee-bushes and mimosa growing here in plenty. We were told that many kudus were to be found here and were very curious to see this beautiful antelope.

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Friday, 29 July.

Having recovered sufficiently from my fall, I was grateful to be able to leave my wagon and mount my horse again to-day. We went on to the Zoute River which comes from the Nieuweveld mountains, joins the Gamtoos, and reaches the sea beyond the Sitsikamma.

Saturday, 30 July.

This day we had a stage of four hours from the Zoute River to Rhenoster Kop, seeing ahead of us the Nieuweveldsbergen and the Zwartebergen in the far distance. We halted at Rhenosterkop, where commandant Human shot a male ostrich. The farmers like to shoot these birds since there is a demand for the feathers in Cape Town.

Though our stage was to have ended here, we found that we could reach the farm of the Commandant Abraham de Klerk (son of Jacob) and continued, travelling along the foothills. About halfway there, we saw a tribe of Kaffirs who live in the Nieuweveldsbergen. We arrived at the farm De Twee Fonteinen (in de Hooyvlakte) of de Klerk after sunset, being received very hospitably by the commandant, who handed me a letter from the Governor.

He had passed here on 25 July and de Klerk had brought him as far as Zwarteberg. By order of the Governor, I wrote to Major von Gilten instructing him how to act in case of attack by English ships at Algoa Bay and reporting the departure of the General for Cape Town.

Sunday, 31 July.

We rested this day to provision ourselves and to talk to the Kaffirs lying here, urging them to conduct themselves quietly and to be obedient to orders given to them. De Klerk said that there were four of these tribes, quite peaceful and harmless, who had been living there some eight years and did not wish to return to their country. They had begun to till some land and lived frugally, being quite satisfied to live at peace under the Batavian Government.

This morning some burghers handed to me a series of complaints, having been instructed by the Governor to do so. A burgher found two lion-cubs in a den where he had shot the mother. They were offered to the Governor and taken along in a cage we made for them, the donor receiving 100 rixdollars.

Monday, 1 August.

Before day-break, the corporal of the Dragoons came to report that, through the negligence of the guard, the young deserter (taken on 24 July, and who had since proved to be a Batavian chasseur who had deserted from the Wynberg camp) had escaped. The guard was immediately placed under arrest and all the Kaffirs and Hottentots sent off in pursuit. The field-cornets would also be notified by de Klerk.

Among the slaves of de Klerk we found a man who had undergone the operation of Abélard (been emasculated). De Klerk explained that during his absence on commando, this man had exhausted the patience of his mother (Anna Elisabeth Oberholster, widow of Jacob de Klerk) by running away continually to the female slaves on the neighbouring farms. So she had him bound one day and brought to this state in her presence to cure him of the

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desire to run away again. It is a wonder that the unfortunate man made such a good recovery.

We took a somewhat southerly course from here with a fresh relay of oxen, crossing the Gamka - meaning Lion River in the Hottentot language - several times. This river is the western boundary of the Koup region of the Karoo. We camped at Kasperskraal on the Gamka.

Tuesday, 2 August.

Crossing the Gamka again several times we continued over a great plain where we saw only ganna bushes, with Karee-bush and thorn-tree along the river itself. (Passing by Koedoeskop and Remhoogte) we camped at Platte Drift, again on the Gamka.

Wednesday, 3 August and Thursday, 4 August.

We kept to our course along the river, finding traces of saltpetre along here. Of some of the samples which we boiled, we made a slab to take to Cape Town. Crossing the Leeuwen River (western side-stream of the Gamka) we went on towards Zwarteberg, arriving in the late afternoon at Zwarteriviersdrift where it joins the Gamka. Here the field-cornet Samuel (Jacobus) de Beer (son of Zacharias) had a new relay of oxen for us, but reported that he had had difficulty since two of his neighbours (with whom he was not on friendly terms) had refused to send their oxen. A friendly letter was therefore written, which had the desired effect.

Friday, 5 August.

The sheep and provisions we had expected de Beer to have ready here, did not materialize. He had not been able to procure anything from the neighbours with whom he does not seem to be very popular. He speaks a great deal and does little, lodging complaints against people we had met and who impressed us favourably. He handed over two letters, addressed respectively to the Council of Justice and the Governor, both containing more complaints. If they are of the same kind as those he voiced to us, they will not merit much attention.

Going due west from Zwarteriviersdrift, we passed some distance from (Vrisgewaagd) the farm of (the field cornet's brother) Matthijs (Andries) de Beer who sent us the skin and head of a gemsbok he had shot. Our road along the foothills of Zwarteberg was at first rocky and uneven. (After crossing the Dwyka) we continued to Jakkalsfontein where we camped (at the Jakkals River).

Saturday, 6 August.

Starting early, we crossed a wild stretch of country with thick bush and many gemsbok, kudus and ostriches which stayed out of range, however.

We halted at noon and took leave of the Commandants Linde and Human who, with their well-mannered young men, took a road leading to the left through the Zwarteberg. We were indeed sorry to see them go; not a single

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instance of unpleasantness had occurred between us all these months and we parted in as brotherly a spirit as when we met. Our camp this night was five hours westwards at Geelbeksfontein (on the Geelbeks River).

Sunday, 7 August.

At seven o'clock we departed (going north-west from here over Vischkuil on the (first) Buffels River to the farm De Zoute Vlakte or De Zoute Kloof of Jacob Johannes Kruger, son of Pieter Ernst). We discovered, as we had also been told by a colonist on the way, that field-cornet de Beer had again failed us and had not provided for a fresh relay here. So we decided to use his oxen again next day till the fresh teams should arrive.

Monday, 8 August.

We had an extremely long stage to cover through waterless and rock-strewn country before arriving in the evening at the farm De Drie Koppen (north of Konstapelsvlakte) belonging to Potgieter, where our tents were pitched in the open near a spring. One could hardly imagine that a human being could choose such a desert to live in.

Tuesday, 9 August.

We had sent a dragoon on ahead with a message the previous day to Verkeerde Vallei to request fresh oxen since ours were dropping out and had to be outspanned, thus delaying the wagons. At noon we halted in a narrow, rocky defile (at Pienaarskloof) for some hours before going on over the hills (to the south-west again) to the farm De Draai (Kruispad) of the widow (of Jacob Friedrich) Beck, the road making many twists and turns before we got there.

Wednesday, 10 August.

Through the care of field-cornet Stephanus Jacobs (son of Pieter) we found here a fresh relay so that the oxen of the Governor could be left to follow slowly. Riding along the Touw(s) River which flows from the Bokkeveld through the waters of Verkeerde Vallei, we came to the cattle farm (Quartelfontein) of field-cornet Jacobs and past the farm Bokrivier, where he lived, along the Touw River to the farm De Verkeerde Vallei (Verloren Vallei) of (the brothers Barend and) Schalk (Willem) Pienaar. Arriving there in the afternoon, we stayed here the night at the foot of the Bokkeveldsbergen.

This was the first cultivated farm we had encountered for some time, the owner appearing to be an industrious agriculturist and a man of means. From a Cape Town visitor, Mr. de Vos, who was here with a non-commissioned officer of the Dragoons, to buy remounts, we learnt that the Governor had safely reached the capital on Monday evening, 1 August.

Thursday, 11 August.

We ascended the Bokkeveld mountains this day, seeing in the valley beyond numerous farms and cultivated lands. First we stopped at the cattle-farm (Hottentotskraal?) of the field-cornet (Christiaan Gabriel Theron), who provided a new relay. Next we came to Laaken Vallei,

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the farm of the burgher Petrus (Pieter) van der Merwe, from whom I purchased an excellent Spanish stallion for the price of 200 rixdollars. An hour later we halted on (Leeuwenfontein); the farm of field-cornet Theron. He advised us to pass through Mostertshoek rather than over the Witsenberg, which was very steep for our exceptionally heavy wagons. Thus we decided to go on to the farm of Paulus Hugo (son of Pieter) at the entrance to Mostertshoek and arrived there in the evening.

Friday, 12 August.

Leaving this farm (Wolvehuis?) we came to the foot of the Mostertshoek mountain. The heavy wagons had difficulty in getting over these rocky heights, being further delayed by the many drifts of the (Breede) River where our oxen twice got out of their yokes. It was five o'clock in the afternoon when we came to where Roode Zand begins.

The desire to get to Cape Town made us decide to leave the wagons in the care of Lieut. Gilmer and to ride on ahead on horseback. So we passed the same evening through Roode Zandkloof (spending the night at the farm Vogel Vallei).

Saturday, 13 August.

In heavy rain which lasted all day, we commenced our last day's journey. Coming to a wide, swollen and fast-flowing drift, we asked a man riding past, how we should enter it. He shouted Left and rode on, leaving us uncertain as to whether he meant his or our left. In the event we made the wrong decision and Mr. van Reenen, his son and I and the servants with the lead horses were all flung together into the deep and swirling water of a hippo-pool, being in danger of drowning or colliding with each other. Only Mr. van Reenen reached the other bank, the rest of us being pushed back or floating down to the near bank and having to make another attempt. Eventually we got over some distance higher up. Wet through and tired as we were, we reached Cape Town safely the same evening, dismounting with joy at our homes and concluding our journey to the interior.