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79 Christoffel Langhansz
Translated from his ‘Neue Ost-Indische Reise ...’ Leipzig 1715, an unusual account among the many published, and reflecting the unusual character of the writer. For one thing, he was ‘soldier and sailor too’, acquiring enough seamanship during his voyages to pass for Mate, and in this capacity (he tells us) making several voyages after the one here described, to Spain, Portugal, the Ionian Islands and Greenland. As a result his book is unusually informative on the seafaring side, and as such usefully supplements De Graaff's ‘Ost-Indische Spiegel’ (QB March and June 1964, June 1965).
Again, he was on old hand, having served several previous engagements; and like old hands everywhere he was an expert wangler. He got himself taken on as a soldier at Amsterdam ahead of the crowd by bribing a porter to let him in by the exit-door; he grabbed the best place for his hammock on board, ‘near the main hatch, where I would be warm in the cold weather and cool in the heat’; he made friends with the Captain and ‘did little of the work aboard’; he got himself extended shore-leave at the Cape; he learned all about smuggling brandy and tobacco ashore at the Cape, and how to get drinks at illegally low prices; he managed his discharge after little more than one year instead of the regulation five; on his return-passage he found himself a soft job as Steward to the Merchant* in charge of the fleet, and so had plenty of food and little work; he got two chests of porcelain through the V.O.C. Customs (instead of the one allowed with goods to the value of four months' pay) by paying a homecomer with no chest to pass one through as his, and by asserting that he had been out for ten years, with the result that he sold for 80 Rxd. what
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had cost him 40 (but he would have made 1200 per cent., he adds sadly, had he brought tea instead).
Most of his notes on the Cape are his own: in others he unfortunately follows Meister (items 38, 68) errors included. Practically all he has to say on the Hottentots is from Meister, who on this subject echoes Schreyer (item 21) - yet another example of how Schreyer permeates early Cape descriptions, either directly or (as here) indirectly.
He sailed from Texel on January 4, 1693 (Hague codex 4390 has 7/1) in Drie Kronen, with Mehrenstein, Wahlstroom, Handbogen. His ship new: sailing-qualities tested in detail. Storm, fleet scattered, the two last-named must put back to Texel. His Ship's Council* decided to go on alone. Northabout*. Abrolhos, thanksgiving and feast. 30 sick of scurvy: in all 38 deaths before Batavia. Longitude* by compass-bearings of rising or setting sun, very fully.
... signs of the Cabo de bona Esperanza, as follows: Firstly, we saw various Cape-birds [Cape Gannet], seen nowhere but near this outermost corner of Africa. They are as large as geese, with black and white feathers, and never go more than 50 miles out to sea. For the rest, they are in all ways like the gulls or seabirds, and the Dutch jokingly call them crimps*. Secondly, we saw Trombas floating in the sea [described]. Thirdly, one looks out for the clouds*, since two small white ones always float over the Table Mountain, one somewhat larger than the other, although this last has already often deceived many. When these signs are seen, it is known that the Cabo is quite near, and therefore the sailors keep a sharp lookout, knowing that there is something to be gained, in that the first who sights land and calls this out is given a new hat, a ducatoon*, and a flask of brandy. [Danger of running ashore there.] We sighted the land very clearly towards evening, but since we could not enter the harbour by day, we took in our topsails and drifted under the mainsail, tacking a couple of times until the night was past and we could sail into the harbour or Bay. So after we had been 4 months and 20 days from Holland, on May 26 [dr 27/5] we ran into the Bay between the Robben and the Taschen Islands, and after firing the usual salutes came to anchor not far from the Castle in 18 fathoms, the Castle welcoming us with 3 guns.
As soon as we had dropped our bower anchor*, our Skipper and Book-keeper went ashore with our letters. [Methods of anchoring at the Cape.]
As soon as the Skipper returned on board, he ordered the sick, some thirty in number, to be taken ashore to the Hospital*, as also the Under-Surgeon. This being done, we set to work to clean the ship well, and the yards were lowered so that everything could be looked to and bettered. All the ports of the ship were opened, and where the men had lain during the voyage was sprinkled with vinegar, and all was made ready to take in fresh water and firewood for our further journey. After this the watches could go ashore in turns to amuse themselves; but I, who in any case did little of the work aboard and was a good friend of the Skipper, managed to go ashore with the first party and stay there until we sailed, so that during this time I had a good chance to see the
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place....
Over against the sea is a very high hill, called the Table Mountain because it is flat on top, above which there are always two small unmoving clouds all the year. Somewhat to the north and near the Table Mountain is another, called the Devil's Hill: these two lie close together below, so that they could be taken for one hill, but from the sea the two can be clearly distinguished. Somewhat southerly from the Table Mountain is another hill, longer and lower, called for its shape the Lion Hill, and this protects the Bay or Harbour from the sea to the South. In front, at the entrance to the harbour, lies an island, called by the Dutch Robben Island because of the many sea-dogs or ‘Robben’ that are found there. On this island those who have somewhat offended must burn lime from the sea-shells [sic: collect shells for lime to be burnt on shore]. More to the north, or more towards the land, lies another island, called the Taschen [Dassen] Island. Below the Table Mountain the Dutch have a strong and well-built Fort* with 5 bastions, built of large blocks from a quarry* near the Cape. On the landwards side it has a fine and deep moat, and in it are 3 to 400 men in garrison*. It has one gate only, within and opposite which is built the Church*, and next to this the Governor's house, as also some storehouses and other houses for the officers. On the sea-point bastion [Katzenellenbogen] stands a flagstaff three pike-lengths tall, on which a Dutch flag is hoisted when ships come in. Up on the Lion Hill another such stands, with 4 small guns, and when they sight ships at sea they fire shots from there, and hoist and lower the flag as many times as there are ships sighted; and also they hoist the same flag* as that worn by the ships, so that those in the Castle and town can know how many ships are arriving, and of what nationality [sic: see s.v. Lions* Head].
About 100 paces from the Castle towards the Lion Hill is a town* of some 70 houses, most of them inhabited by Dutch and Germans, who have all their living from the ships that touch, by taking as boarders those who come ashore, these paying ⅛ Rxd. [‘Reichsort’] for a meal. They also do a secret trade with the ‘Bahren’, as those coming out from Holland are called, whereas those coming from the Indies are called ‘Orlammi’*. From the former they get especially brandy and tobacco, since both these are declared contraband here by the Company, and a Fiscaal* is set here who keeps a sharp eye on this through his slaves, called Caffers - but nevertheless this trade is practised ashore secretly to an extent that can scarcely be imagined, nor in what ways they trick the Fiscaal and his inspectors.
When the wind is at S.E. it often blows so strongly and for so long that for several days no one can go from shore to ship nor from ship to shore, so that those who are ashore and have spent all their money must give to these folk for their lodging the clothes that they have brought from Holland, and often go aboard in a linen shirt and linen trousers. These clothes are sold again pretty dear by the inhabitants to those who come from the Indies and are bound for Holland, so that they get a double profit on them.
Also, although there is an abundant production of wine, and plenty of it to be had, these folk may sell no other drinks but a beer made from sugar*: wine, brandy, arrack or
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Indian brandy, as also Brunswick mumme* may be sold only in the taverns or inns of the Company. Of these there are two in the town, one selling only wine grown here at the Cabo, a flask of half a pot [‘halbe Topf-flasche’] costing ¾ Rxd., and the other selling brandy, arrack and mumme, an ordinary wine-glass of brandy costing 3 groschen or a Dutch schilling, such a glass of arrack one groschen or a Dutch two-stiver piece, and a half-pot flask of mumme ½ Rxd. Those who have rented these houses from the Company must pay heavy taxes, and since they alone may sell such drinks publicly they can do pretty well when many ships touch. But one can also get secretly from the Freemen (those living here who are not in the Company's service) a flask of wine for ⅛ Rxd. or half the price of the taverns, but this they must do secretly to avoid heavy punishment. The food one has from these Freemen is mostly mutton, which is very fat; also beef, which however is not so good. The mutton costs them little, since as I saw myself my host had two Hottentots always living by him: these went off by night and brought a sheep to the house by night, from one herd or another, and for their pains and the sheep they got a piece of tobacco as long as two fingers, together with the guts and skin of the sheep, which seemed cheap enough to me. Since they can buy things so cheaply they should not charge so much for the meals. With the meat they cook either sweet potatoes (almost like our turnips), or green cabbage, which also is very cheap. Also, since so much corn grows here, bread is cheaper than we have it at home, so that it is no wonder that the Freemen at the Cabo so quickly become rich. Also those Germans who live here are far more selfish and avaricious than the Dutch, so that it is better to take lodging with a Dutchman than with a German.
There are also other Freemen here who were set here only some few years ago and began to cultivate the land, most of them having been driven out of France; and since in France they were accustomed to vine-growing they have begun this here, and in a few years have brought it so far that in their houses a half-pot flask of wine, in my opinion as good as the best of the French wines, can be bought for 1 Dutch schilling or 3 groschen; and without doubt if the Company did not set such a heavy tax or excise on it, it would be even cheaper, since no Freeman is allowed to sell his wine except to the Company or to the Monopoly-holder to whom the Company has leased it. For this reason you must not say that they sold you their wine, but rather that they gave it to you from politeness. And since these folk have found good and fertile land, they have built various outlying farms even 3 or 4 miles inland [say 15 English; but Fransch Hoek where most of the Huguenots first settled, is fully 30 miles, even as the crow flies], so that now agriculture is carried out by them with great zeal, and bread and wine are cheaper than at home; indeed if more folk could have leave to settle there, a very fruitful and populous land could be made from a wilderness. But it seems as if the Dutch Company will not allow this, in their own interest. I visited these folk several times in their dwellings, whose only complaint was that they had not enough people to do the work, and that this was too much for them alone, especially the growing of wheat.
Below the Table Mountain the Company has a fine Garden, which is well worthy
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of mention. It is about 1,000 roods [sic: read ‘yards’] long and 300 wide, surrounded by a wall a pike-length high, and in it are found the loveliest and rarest fruits and flowers of the Indies. The avenues are made of fine laurel-hedges a pike-length high and 2 ells thick, which are continually trimmed by the slaves working there. The ornamental flower-bushes are set around with rosemary, which grows in hedges like our red-currant bushes, and are diligently trimmed. It would take too long to tell of all the flowers and fruit-trees even if I were to mention them only briefly. In a word, all the fruit to be found in the Indies are cultivated here as far as possible. Herr [Simon] von Stell, who was Governor when I was there, had also had made various grottos and fountains, which however were not yet completed. [Comparison with European Gardens.]
I leave this matter, and pass to the real inhabitants, called Hottentots. These folk (although they are for the most part rather to be considered as animals) which dwell here at the Cabo, the extreme end of Africa, are called Hottentots. They are well-proportioned folk, the men somewhat taller than the women. Their colour is not quite black, but by their frequent and excessive smearing they make themselves so black and stinking that their equal is not to be found among all the black nations. Their hair is short and curly, like sheepswool, their lips are thick and projecting, the nose wide and flattened, but the body (as said) well proportioned; and by the so-much smearing they become so agile that they would not yield place to any horse. The fat with which they smear themselves cannot be too stinking but that it is preferred by them, so that they can be smelt further than they are seen. Their clothing is as lovely as their bodies. Their heads are bare, but so that these may not lack ornament they hang in their woolly hair sea-shells, bits of lead or tin and other such: also they have holes in their ears in which they hang large rings of iron or lead, whereby they feel themselves well adorned. For clothing both men and women wear a sheepskin around the shoulders, the wool towards the body, which they call ‘Carotze’, and which is as full of vermin as if it were powdered with them; and this clothing or cloak is their bed and blanket. Before their privities they have a little piece of fur, made fast to two thongs bound around the body. The women wind around their arms and legs the guts of sheep with the dung and dirt in them, which also become alive with vermin like their Carotzes or cloaks, so that one can well believe that this clothing must smell as sweetly as they themselves.
When ships come into the harbour they do their best to come aboard with one boat or another, and when this succeeds, they go at once to the galley and beg the cook for grease or fat, however black and stinking it may be, and smear and anoint themselves quite openly with this from top to toe, including even that which God has made it natural to be kept hidden. Such smearing is indeed a habit among all East-Indian peoples, but not all use such stinking fat as these: in India they smear themselves with the oil of the coconut, especially their long hair, which thereby becomes as thick and strong as horsehair, and this oil keeps them as black as pitch, the colour which they prefer above all others. The first day when we were come into the harbour three came aboard with our shallop*, two men and a woman, and filled the whole ship with their stink. If one
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gave the men a scrap of tobacco they danced and leapt and called therewith Hot: Hot: Hot:; and both men and woman pushed their Carotzes aside and let their privities be seen, and called out repeatedly ‘de Dieber hal de Domine van Hammerfoort, Hammerfoort’, ‘The Devil take the Dominee of Hammerfort’, which no doubt they had learned from the sailors [see Index s.v. Hammerfort]. For such dishonest dancing they got tobacco enough, and put it in a little bag which they had hanging on the front of their necks.
The houses, or rather huts in which they live well befit their life and clothing; and just as they have no tailors to make their clothes so also they need no masons or carpenters to build their houses, since they can make them for themselves. The start of their building is a long stake or pole [sic: no central pole was used] thrust into the ground, 9 or 10 feet high, and around this they push into the earth thin and flexible stakes, and then bind these together at the top so that the hut is about 12 feet in circumference. These they then cover with grass or reeds, and above these beast-skins. As a door they leave a hole in it about 4 feet high, but this they change now and then according to the direction of the wind. At night they make a fire and all lie around it, with all their feet towards it: the smoke gets out everywhere, since such construction is not too airtight, and so they lie like dogs together. When one sees such a palace from afar it could be taken for a haycock, since from a distance they look not unlike these. There is no policy or order to be found among these people, far less do they have a King, but they remain thus together in the country, where they dwell in groups and rear cattle, these being their only work and nourishment. He who has the most cattle and is somewhat elderly is their chief, whom all the others must obey as their servants. Also even if one kills another, there is no one to take revenge, unless the children of the victim do this. If they quarrel or are at loggerheads among themselves they come together in disorderly arrays to fight. Their arms or weapons are a lance and a club: some also have a bow, but their best weapons are stones. Each group chooses one as a leader, who must previously have already shown proof of his bravery. When they thus come together, they first throw stones in great numbers until they have no more, and then use their bows and lances, although usually all ends without bloodshed. The
victory is that one group must yield the field to the other, and thus has lost the cause for which they fought.
Their speech is so unusual and crooked that it cannot be compared with any other. When they speak somewhat rapidly together it sounds like the clucking of turkeys when annoyed. And since they know nothing of reading and writing, nor of any alphabet or letters, it is somewhat unusual for anyone to learn their language, although this is not entirely impossible but can be done in time. In the Indies I voyaged with a certain Reinhart Jansen, the Steward's Mate in the ship Java, who in his outward voyage to the Indies was wrecked with his ship Stavern S [Stavenisse*] about 100 miles from the Cape, being one of 18 who got ashore. Of these most decided to make their way by land to the Cape, but were all killed; but this Reinhart Jansen and 2 others remained with the Hottentots, and only after 3 years had the chance to escape from them. When he came
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to the Cape and the Castle, entirely alone since both his companions had died, he looked like nothing else than a Hottentot, except for his hair which he had singed off, and the log of the aforesaid ship which he brought with him. He spoke good Hottentot, and told me of various of their customs, and among these how they were accustomed to marry, which was done as follows: When anyone had reached agreement with the parents, he then asked the girl, and if she said Yes, he threw a thick cowgut* around her neck as the tie of married love, and this she wore until it fell off of itself. Also that no one took more than one wife. In youth the left testicle of each boy is cut away, from which it results that they do not have many children, five at the most. And since Nature has marked them in a somewhat exceptional manner, I hope that the reader will not take it amiss that I reveal this. Without doubt it will be known to all who have been to the Indies and seen this Cape, how for a scrap of tobacco they show everything that God has ordained should be kept secret. The sexual organ of the man is unusually large, like that of a young bull, whereas the women have over their privities a little flap of flesh [see ‘Apron*’] as long as a finger, such as turkeys have over their beak, which covers the rest; and just as they differ in their bestial life from other men, so also Nature has marked them off in this manner. When a woman has given birth to her child she goes at once with it to the water, or to the seashore, and washes herself, but otherwise observes no six-week lying-in, but it is as if a ‘Good Morning’ for her. When children are born they are somewhat yellowish, but in a few days become browner: they help this by smearing, and so colour them that they are like the adults. When they are barely six months old they can already walk because of this, but cannot as yet follow the mother: in general these have a piece of sheepskin hanging
on their backs in which they set the babies, and when they wish to give them the breast they throw these back over their shoulders and thus give suck, since these are so long that they hang down in front like a couple of empty saddle-bags.
As to their religion, they have none, but live like the unreasoning brutes from day to day. Although some say of them that they reverence the moon this is not so, although it is true that by night, especially at the New Moon, they dance, or better said leap before it, and thereby howl rather than sing. But this dancing is done only for their pleasure, since leaping against their shadows and clapping their hands delights them especially, in that they see their shadows [not confirmed elsewhere] also do this; and this they continue so long as the moon shines on them, so that this dancing is thus to be considered as solely and entirely for their pleasure and amusement. Also although all the peoples of the Indies much like dancing by night, yet these most especially, since they take no heed of work: after they have lain asleep all the day in the sun, and sought for something to eat which they themselves produce [not true of Cape, but Jans was further north-east], all their task is then thus to tire themselves by night with leaping and dancing; and also they take little thought for clothing. If it rains, and they are asked Whence it comes? they say ‘Groot Captain pissem’, which in their opinion is as much as to say, ‘The Captain of the folk who live above is passing his water’; since in their opinion very large
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folk live above there. They wish to know nothing of God, but make do with the following excuse which they bring out in broken Dutch ‘Hollaender arbeitem sterbem dem Hottentot sterbem is storbem krup der als ock Hollaender mann’, which is to say ‘The Dutch work and toil but not the Hottentots, and at last both die and one is buried in the earth like the other’. If they are told of a Resurrection to a better life they shake their heads like the atheists, and say that they and their cattle have one and the same burial, and that one will rise again as little as the other. And let this be enough concerning the Hottentots.
This land is full of many terrible wild beasts, which find abundant prey since there is no lack of animals. The lions come even to the Cape, and often do great damage to the farmers living there, so that they must guard their houses well, and especially their cowsheds, since however well their animals are guarded they are harmed by these terrible beasts. One day I sought to amuse myself outside the town, and a Surgeon, by name Benjamin Hartleben of Speyer, offered to keep me company, which also he did. When we were gone about half a mile inland from the town [along the Liesbeek] we heard a growling: we looked all around, and on our left were various farmsteads, so that we went straight on without apprehension. But we had gone barely 20 paces when we heard yet stronger growling, which caused us to look around more carefully; and we saw that a large lion came towards us barely 50 paces away. At this we were greatly affrighted and took to flight as best we could to the nearest farm. When we reached it and in great alarm told the men there of our plight, they laughed at us and asked: Could we as mariners not tell which way was the wind? and added: The wind is blowing from where the lion is, so that you had plenty of time to escape it easily, and even had it been nearer it would not have seen you. Nevertheless they closed the gate to their yard; and when the master had sent for a flask of wine for us, he told us further: That what a lion catches must usually be by his sense of smell, but that he is so weak of sight that he can see barely 10 paces, and to this also contributes the shaggy hair which hangs over his eyes. If the men are in the fields and hear such growling, they first take note of the wind, and thus get away according to the circumstances. They had no especial complaint of the lions; and if the tigers did not do more damage to their herds than at present, they would have no especial complaint of these beasts either.
I must admit that this freeman's house greatly pleased me: he took us into his wine-cellar*and showed us 4 legger* of wine which he had pressed that year. We gave him about ½ lb. of Virginia tobacco, and in return he entertained us very well with food and drink, to the best of his ability, and would not let us go until the next day. He told us also that the Company would not allow them to sell their corn and wine to whomever they wished, but all must be sold to the lessee of the monopoly [sic: actually the corn to the Company, the wine to the lessee], who paid little for it, since he in turn must pay a heavy rent to the Company, or better said to the Governor. A flask of wine can be had from the freemen for 3 groschen, but from the lessee it costs on the contrary ½ Rxd. Moreover, if these folk were allowed to sell their wine and other things as they wished, they would
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have far more inducement to cultivate the land, since both the climate and the soil are favourable to agriculture.
[Story of a farmer's wife who found 4 lion-cubs and took them to the Governor as young dogs: told to remain in the Castle until the parents could be killed, since they would follow the cubs by scent. The lioness killed by a baited spring-gun, and the woman sent home with 10 Rxd. bounty and a warning.]
The tigers are nowhere fiercer than there; but they are more beautiful than any I have ever seen [described]. Also at the Cape are a sort of wild-cats called Tiger-Bushcats [described].
At times, although rarely, wild asses come to the Cape, of which I saw a stuffed hide [see Museum*], and must admit that I never saw a lovelier beast-skin than this. They are very rarely caught, since they seldom come as far as the Cape, and are very wild and difficult to catch, and especially because they do not breed here. [Described: Zebras.]
Where it is somewhat hilly there is a sort of hedgehog, called by the Dutch, Iron Pigs or Porcupines [described].
The apes which dwell at the Cape, but chiefly in the hills, are called Baboons [described: said to rape women if alone].
The sheep at this extremity of Africa are so tasty that they in no way fall short of the Persian sheep. Some have 4 horns, which are said to grow back into the head if not cut off. Most of their tails are cut away, mainly so that the rams may cover them the better. The cattle are not so good, perhaps because the pastures suit the sheep better. Since the Dutch need many cattle and sheep for the refreshing of the ships arriving, the Hottentots come at certain times from inland to the Cabo, and bring large herds of oxen and sheep, which the appointed traders [officials] barter for a little brandy and tobacco, but after first inspecting them so that no old or sick beasts are among them. When they have thus received their tobacco and brandy for their beasts they think themselves rich enough, and go home rejoicing. At a rough estimate, it will be found that a sheep costs hardly more than a stiver or 6 pfennings, and an ox about 2 groschen. The lean and poor beasts are given to the ships for refreshments ... but the best are sold and eaten on land. Each ship, so long as she lies there, is given an ox or 6 sheep daily, which truly are so lean that they are nothing but skin and bones hanging together, whereas those eaten on shore are so fat that one can hardly eat them. But if the food on board were better, many would save their money and not pay the freemen so dear for their food. The sick who are brought ashore to be somewhat better nourished there, are no better off than the fit men aboard, of which I will say something further later.
Ostriches are not uncommon here, to judge by the many eggs which are for sale. They lay these eggs in the sand in the hottest or warmest months, that is in January and February, and leave them to be hatched by the sun [sic]. Two or 3 men can eat their full from one egg, which is as large as a child's head, if there is a little bread thereto. I saw 2 such ostriches in the Castle, of which one was as large of body as an average calf, but each leg was as thick as a man's ankle, and wide at the foot: when they run one may
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well think it is an unshod horse. [Described: egg-shells taken to Europe as curios.]
The ravens here have a white stripe around their necks. Sea-birds, or gulls as the Dutch call them, are the same here as elsewhere, except those which I mentioned in the previous chapter, the ‘Cape Birds’. There is also no lack of other tame fowls.
Just as the land lacks nothing, so also the sea here does not lack fish, such as sardines, steinbrassen, crayfish, crabs, sea-cows, Robben or sea-dogs, and rays. These last are called Hottentot fish at the Cabo, because these wade into the water as far as they can, and since these fish always lie on the bottom, they catch them cleverly - they have a pointed stick, and with this as with a harpoon spear them before then can get away, and bring quantities of them for sale. This is their only manner of fishing.
There is a sort of whale in the sea here, called ‘Nord-Capers’ by the Dutch.
Where the land is well cultivated it produces many sorts of fruits, so that I must mention these: the French refugees especially, in the few years that they have dwelt here, have given a good proof of what can be done with this land. [Wines ‘well to be compared with those of Franconia’, rye, wheat, lettuce, sweet potatoes, onions, cabbages, ‘water-lemons’ (described, water-melons), pomegranates, lemons, pineapples, quinces.]
In spite of all the good arrangements of the Company or the Governor, the Hospital* for the sick brought by the ships is as bad as it could be. It is left more like a dilapidated dwelling than a hospital, although its improvement is most needful, so that the unfortunate sick might have better care and beds: but instead of feather-beds, anyone who does not bring his own bed must sleep on a hard plank, and eat no better than the fit men aboard, not to mention how carelessly they are treated by the Meesters or Surgeons, so that they are truly to be pitied, the galley-slaves in Sicily being treated no worse than the sick here. The Dutch call it a ‘Sick-House’: they should rather call it a ‘Death-House’; and if many sick did not go to some freeman and get some help there, I believe that very few would recover. The saying is ‘He who does not die will recover’, and this might well be the motto of an East-Indian journey.
Since many beasts are killed at the Cabo for the ships, a special slaughter-house has been built, in the following manner: not from from the Castle, where the shallops* usually come to shore, there is a long jetty*, called by the Dutch ‘Hafft’, so that the shallops run no risk of grounding on the shore and being damaged by the stones lying there, but can always come to a safe and convenient place, and so also that the Fiscal's people can keep a better eye on smuggling, for which reason a guard-house is built on the landward end of it. The slaughter-house stands beside this, and since beasts are almost daily slaughtered there the Hottentots have their raw-kitchen [‘Gar-Küche’] near it, and are accustomed to be entertained there, since they pick up the guts, thrown out with all the dirt in them, and after they have warmed them a little over the fire they eat them with all the dung, so that this runs down both sides of their muzzles, enough to take away anyone's appetite; and nothing can be thrown away that does not serve them for food and as a lovely delicacy. Thus the butchers need not trouble themselves for dogs, whose place these willingly take, and what their teeth cannot chew they swallow whole;
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and if they lack knives they beat it between two stones until they can tear it with their teeth. Oxhides and the like are not too tough for them, but they let them shrivel a little over the fire so that the hair is singed off, and so know how to deal with them, nor are they afraid that it will lie too long in their bellies. From all this, as also from what has been told of them above, it can be concluded whether their lives could be more bestial. But the rest I pass over in silence for the sake of brevity.
From the Table Mountain to the end of the Jetty or Hafft there are water-pipes laid underground, reaching to the end of the jetty where a special water-house has been built, below which the longboats* and shallops* from the ships can come and fill their containers with the water from the pipes, which otherwise would cost much toil.
The firewood needed by the ships is brought in carts from inland and loaded on the said jetty into the boats which take it to the ships; but it is bad, and there is little of it to be found near the Cabo, so that it is used very frugally.
After we had been there about 14 days and had aboard all that was needful for our further journey, we raised our anchor [‘They-Ancker’, small bower] and at the same time hoisted the blue flag* and fired one gun, to call all those ahore to embark. After this we came apeak* to our other anchors* and awaited the Skipper and the Book-keeper from the farewell-feast with the Governor, as also the sick who were ashore, of whom five must remain there since they were not strong enough to come aboard.
Meanwhile the ship Mehrenstein, anchored here in the harbour [dr 14/6], which had sailed from the Texel with us but had been separated from us in the North Sea, which we welcomed with many signs of rejoicing and the firing of our guns.
She was the only ship which was able to continue our voyage, although she had been very damaged and could barely reach the Salt Islands, where she had gone to one called St. Jago and there had repaired herself. In the continued storm she lost the commander of her soldiers, who, when she had remained heeled over for some time, had climbed to the other side and tried to go on deck, but then as she again heeled over in the other direction he came under water and was not seen again, which would not have happened had he remained below deck. They had already had 36 dead, and her sick were not a few. We could congratulate ourselves on being the luckiest ship of the fleet, since the two others that had sailed with us had thought themselves fortunate to be able to get back into the Texel, where they must suspend their voyage for that time.
Although we were now again together, we continued our journey [alone: dr 23/6], and on July 7 raised our anchor and sailed out of the harbour with a N.E. wind, with the firing of guns to wish us a happy passage, both from the Castle and the ship Mehrenstein, and so bade farewell....
Nord-Capers described. Compass-declination* and check by bearings of sun. ‘Southland’ (West Australia). Sunda Strait. Batavia on August 28: by Hague codex 152 folio 196 he was there until November 1694, then in Spierdyk to Surat, and back at Batavia until sailed 13/2/96 in Eenhorn as Steward to Merchant* Conradt, Admiral* of the fleet, sailing with
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wife and children, and two slaves ‘who would be free as soon as they reached Holland’. St. Helena described, now English. Sargasso Sea described. Northabout*. Cruisers* expected but not met. Texel September 25 (Hague codex 4390 folio 5 as 28/9). Riot aboard, cook beaten with his own gear, Skipper insulted and had to hide. Released from oaths. Drew balance of pay (Hague codex 152 folio 196 as 35: 15: 6). |
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