Cape Good Hope 1652-1702

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52 Christopher Fryke

(And see item 43.) He sailed from Batavia in Beurs, Admiral* of the return-fleet, with Jambi, Saint Maartensdijk, on February 12, 1685. Bantam. Princes Island. Mauritius.

And came at last, after nine weeks Sail, in sight of the great Promontory of Africa, the Cape of Good Hope, which rejoyced us much. One of the Carpenter's Men had the good fortune to spy Land the first of any; for which good Tydings, the Master presented him with two Ducatoons and a Can* of Canary, as it was ever the Custom on Board our Ships, to gratifie those that first discover Land. We immediately loosned our Anchors, and fasten'd them to their Cables, and made directly towards Tafel-Bay, which lay 20 miles from us. The next day we were within two Hours of it, there being a very great Fog and the weather being very Calm, which was very extraordinary, it being for the most part very Blustring there nearly all the year round. We hall'd out our Shallop*, and Long-Boat*, into which having sent some of our Men with Oars, they hall'd the Ship into the Haven. This took up over half a day, before we were come to a place where we could cast Anchor; and hoisted up our Flags, after which they at Land did the same likewise from the Tower of the Castle [dr 28/4].

Then our Master went on Shoar, and gave the Governour of the place an account of our Success thus far on our Voyage. Here we found three Ships [sic: five, dr 19/4] from Holland, and one English Fly-boat [Text ‘Flute*’: not traced], riding at Anchor. We took off our sails, bettered the Yard, and then all that was defective alow and aloft. By the first boat that came out there were sent us some Sheep, and good Herbs, on which our Folk could refresh themselves; also a few Hottentots came on Board of us, to some of which, our Men made several little Presents, but only of Eatables. Our men were likewise permitted to go on Shore by turns for a day or two: Some of the Crew were sent into the Woods to fetch Fuel, and others were sent with the casks for a Recruit of fresh Water.

I and my Upper-Surgeon received also our turn to go on Shore. I found the place extraordinary full of those Soldiers, which belong'd to the three Dutch Ships that lay there. I took some Meals with the Free-men [sentence omitted by ‘S.L.’, and in fact seems to be intrusive]. Among those arrived I knew not one, but they were all of good Spirit, and said that they had had a good Wind and a fortunate Voyage thither. Never-theless the Hospital* was pretty full of sick Men, so that I told over 200 there, which were forced to be left behind at the Cape, not being recover'd before their Ships were obliged to go on, on their Voyage. These Ships being gone off, the Town was left quiet and empty, and everything was cheap again; for that we had more conveniency of making our selves Merry. I spent some time very pleasantly. My Landlord where I took my meals was of Newrenberg, and by Employment a Brewer. He had two Daughters, one of whom

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was very Beautiful, and already Ripe for Marriage. He had lost his Wife about two years before, by her Death. He was well-to-do, but wished to go again to Europe and his Fatherland, but was loath to abandon so much of his Goods: Since (if my memory does not fail me) when such a Free-man* is desirous to leave the Country, he must give over all his Estate, Gardens, Houses, and all the Beasts, to the Company, without receiving any thing for them. As for his Ready-Money and Moveables, these he can take along by paying some little for them. I had here the best Opportunity to take the said Daughter to Wife, since she became very obliging towards me, and let it be seen that she esteemed me highly. But I was heartily set upon my Return home, that I might once again Enjoy the free Liberty of my Religion [? Lutheran].

So that without entering upon this Marriage, I made all necessary Preparation, and made ready to go back to my Ship; and the very lovely Estate of the said Freeman, which lay directly behind his House, could in no wise blind my eyes; but I could well believe, that it would have been to him a great Soreness of Heart to abandon so pleasant a place, and such fair Orchards and Gardens stocked with the loveliest Trees and Fruits of the Land, to return to his Fatherland.

Once I went out with no other Company but my Thoughts, in very fair weather, to fetch a Walk for half a day, and came unexpectedly after but a short quarter-hour [half mile: S.L. ‘quarter mile’ in error], to the so-called Leeuwen-Bergh, between which and the Sea, I saw some of those Hutts which the Hottentots dwell in. Upon sight of which, my Curiosity led me to enter one of them and see what kind of a life these People led. As I came within, I found a parcel of 'em lying together like so many Hogs, and fast asleep; But as soon as they were aware of me, they sprung up and came to me, making a noise like Turkies. I was not a little concerned; yet seeing they did not go about to do me any harm, I pull'd out a piece of Tobacco and gave it them. They were mightily pleased, and to shew their Gratitude they all lifted up those flaps of Sheep-Skin which hang before their Privy-Parts, to give me a sight of 'em. I made all haste to be gone, because of the nasty stench; also I could readily perceive, that there was nothing special to be seen there. Moreover, some I found at their Eating, which made the Stink yet more unbearable, since they had only a piece of Cow-Hide, laid out upon the Coals a Broyling, and they had squeezed the Dung out of the Guts, and smeared it with their hands over one another. And the Hide they take when it is broyl'd, and beat it, and so Eat it. This so turn'd my Stomach, that I made haste to be gone, and went from thence and climbed a little up the Leeuwen-Bergh, which is not at all Rocky, but cover'd over with Grass. When I had gone a little upwards, I sat me down, and took a view of the Country all round me, since from there I could see deep into the Sea and far over the Land. While I turn'd my eyes to Seawards, I espied far at Sea a ship making to the Fort with full Sails; and presently after I saw the Flag hoisted up in the Castle. Upon this I came down to go towards the Fort, and as I was going along the Shore, there stood a Servant Maid, who was come to fill a little Tub with Sand: As soon as she saw me, she cry'd out to me in Malay as loud as she could, Maridi Sini Senior: Oh Sir, Pray come and help me. I ran full speed towards her

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to help her, and when I came up to her, she shewed me a dreadful long Serpent, that had just then been devouring a young Hottentot, and had swallowed him up all but the Legs, which still stuck out of his Mouth. This put me in so great a Consternation, that I made ready to flee, which the Maid seeing, she gave a great Shriek, whereat some Hottentots that lived thereabouts came running towards us. As soon as they saw what was the matter, they got themselves ready to catch the Serpent; And having brought out some long Ropes, they threw them with wonderful Dexterity about its middle, and drawing the Ropes, some at one end, some at another, as hard as they were able; they held him so fast, that it would not have been wonderful had they cut him in two. At last came some of the Men with great Poles, with which they killed him. He was about sixteen feet long, whereat I wondered not a little. Then they took this dreadful Creature, fastened it to a Stick, and let it dry. What was further done to it I cannot say, since I went back to the place from whence I was come.

In my return I met with some Wild Hottentots, who were come down thither from the Cafre's Country, about 100 Miles from thence. They, as I observed, are almost blind in the day time, at least extream Dim-sighted; so that they do most of their Business by Night [not confirmed elsewhere].

In the time that I staid in the Cape, I saw once one of these Wild Men of the Land judged, in a near-by Village, for Theft: He had some time before stolen some Cows and Sheep from some of the Freemen, without the Approbation of their King, (which is a Dignity they confer on some one amongst 'em; and wherever they are, tho' but to the number of five or six together, they always make them a King or Captain to Rule over them, without whose Consent no kind of thing is to be done; and in this the Company does not at all interpose, but leaves them to their own Customs). The Criminal was tied Hand and Foot, and stretched betwixt two Posts, about half a Man's height from the Ground; after which some Men came with great Sticks, and beat him from above and below so that a quantity of blood ran from him. If they hit him on the Head or Breast he is soon dispatcht; but they never give over as long as they find any Breath in him. When he is expired, they carry him to the Wood, and there fasten him to a Bough, and leave him for a Prey to Wild Beasts [cf. dr 27/4].

The Ship I espied coming from the top of the Hill, was an English Fly-boat [‘Flute*’], which came and cast Anchor by the other English Ship that lay there before....

After we had staid there full three Weeks, which is more by a Week than Ships generally do, every body was ordered on Board, to make ready to be going. Our Master being Commodore of the Fleet, call'd a Council* of the Masters and Mates, to settle the Orders of their Voyage. The next day a Review was made, where all were found in very good order, except for two that were sick; but yet, as ill as they were, they would not stay there, but would venture on their Voyage.

The next day, after the Review was made, our Master, with the Book-keeper and the Masters of the other Ships, went once more a Shore to wait on the Governour to enjoy the Farewell Feast: They came back that same night in order to go out of the Bay with

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the fair Wind; which was done that very night, being the 25th of May [dr 14/5]; and then we steer'd our Course North-West.... [St. Helena; Sargasso Sea; Amsterdam; home to Ulm.]