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43 Christopher Fryke
(Plate 29)
(See also item 52.) His ‘Ostindische Reise ...’ was published at Ulm in 1692, and translated into Dutch by De Vries, Utrecht 1694; and into English by ‘S.L.’ in 1700, very unsatisfactorily: this last was reprinted in the ‘Seafarer's Library’ in 1929, but unfortunately without any check against the original, and consequently without any correction of ‘S.L's’ mis-translations and deliberate mis-statements. The 1700 edition has however been used here for the sake of its picturesque style, but the errors have been corrected (in that same style) by use of the 1694 edition, De Vries being known to be reliable from other works translated by him where check with the originals was possible (Hesse, Schweitzer). Important variants in ‘S.L.’ are indicated.
Fryke, or Frick, or Frikius left Ulm in February 1677 for Viennd and Zurich, and thence by boat down the Rhine, reaching Amsterdam by Christmas 1679. Sailed in Ternate on May 31, ‘1680’ (1681 by Hague codex 4389). Canaries sighted. Sicknesses, deaths. Scurvy, smallpox.
In these afflictions the Hope consoled us, that we should soon come to the Capo de bonn' Esperance.
But in this we were not a little Deceived, in that we were far from our Course, since around Africa there is customarily every day a great Fog, so that two men cannot readily see one the other a Ship's Length apart. For this cause our Master ordered that diligent Watch should be kept from the Crows-Nest of the Main-Mast, since we could expect to see Land at any moment. At Sunrise I went on deck, and having drunk my Ration of Brandy went forward to Larboard where one can go up into the Bow. Here I busied myself with the smoking of a pipe of Tobacco, in company with my comrade Johan Legner, a Hatter, of Zurich.
While now we were in the middle of a cheerful Conversation, and rejoycing with all our hearts since we hoped soon to set foot on dry land, we heard an unexpected cry of Land, Land, which mightily increased our Joy, since we did not know how close we were come to the peril of a Shipwreck. Suddenly the Master (who just then had the early watch) ran with astonishment down from aft, calling out Jesus, my poor ship! At this we all fell silent from fear, knowing of no way in which we could be helpful.
Meanwhile the ship ran with a Mighty speed towards the land, driven on by the strong Wind; And therefore some ran with knives to cut the Ropes of the mainsail, since there was no time to lower it. Indeed the wind so raged that it carried the sail overboard, with such a terrible Noise and Clatter that we must think that Heaven and Earth were falling. So we ran, one here, the other there, confused by our fright, until at the last the ship began to break up, so that we implored the Almighty most fervently to have Mercy on our poor souls.
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It will be easy for any to imagine how Miserable was now our plight, if he sets before himself the Lamenting, the Prayers and the Shrieks of so many men, since we were yet three hundred and forty-three in number. At last the stern of the ship began to break up, and the hugely high waves broke in so that the Keel was forced to sink down little by little.
Here one danger greeted another, and we were threatened by death from all sides, here by the depths of the Sea, there by the inaccessibly Steep shore; Yet although Terror surrounded us on all sides, and danger met our eyes wherever we looked, we were resolved, if die we must, to put off Death as long as we could. One now sprang thither into the sea, another thither, to fight his way to the Land with all his strength; And I for my part also committed myself to the Waves, with a fervent call to GOD's Mercy, that he would vouchsafe to deliver me in this need. Thus I let myself be carried forward by the Billows, but without knowing whether the land would be my Salvation, since the rocks stood high out from the Water: Nevertheless I tried my utmost to reach them, being greatly encouraged and urged on by the shouts of some of my Comrades, who were already fortunately come out of danger.
Once I reached the rocks, and then a Second Time, but was thrown back by the Waves. None of my companions could lend me help, and little by little my strength began to fail me; But at last my hand hit on sandy Ground, and by the help of the Almighty I came safe to land.
After me yet seven more saved themselves, and before me thirty-five had thus escaped from the raging Billows, so that in all forty-three of us came through this Deadly Peril alive: To wit, the Master, the Chief Mate, my Upper-Surgeon, myself, our Barber*, three Carpenters, the Cook's Mate, two of the Gunner's men, the Handlanger*, the Bosun's Mate, twenty-two Sailors, and eight Soldiers. The rest, three hundred souls, lost their lives Miserably in the Savage Depths.
We gave heartfelt thanks to GOD for His Help; yet at first we did not know where we found ourselves. Also our misery was here increased in that we had with us three Sick, who were in a very ill state from the cold of the Water. The Ship was so entirely lost that we could see not even a fragment of her; Also all the ready Cash, over three hundred and twenty-eight thousand Dollars, and all the cargo, worth many thousands of Guilders, were buried under the Waves.
Now at last we perceived that this region was that of the False Capo de bonn' Esperance, more than forty miles [sic: see miles*] from the true one where the Dutch Garrison lay, so that we were forced to go on into the Country, which was the more tedious, by reason of the sick men; But since we knew that this region hath an abundance of good Fruits, we found, after we had gone on for a little time, some very good Water-Lemons, which must serve us as meat and drink. At last we saw some Hottentots at a distance, whom we could not come to speak to, for they run away from us. But it was to fetch some of them that could speak Dutch; and when we had made our case known to them, they immediately went and acquainted the Governour with it, who streight sent
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another parcel of these Hottentots (who are the Wild Inhabitants of that Country) together with a strong Escort of Dutch Soldiers [SL ‘a file’, two] to fetch us. They took up our sick men, and carried them on their shoulders upon Beds made of Reeds; and we were confortably entertained with good Canary, cooked Rice, Bisket, and all sorts of excellent fruits, all which were extreamly welcome to us.
When we came to the Cape, our Master and the Chief Mate went immediately before the Governour, to clear themselves from whatever might be laid to their charge, for the loss of the Ship, and of so many men's lives; and there alleg'd, that it could not be imputed to their negligence, or want of due care, but that it was rather due to the many and long-lasting contrary Winds, and even more to the good Pleasure of Providence to afflict them in that manner. After which we were all lodged within [sic] the Fort*, and furnished with the usual allowance, and there waited [sic] for the Europa's coming; which was no less than three weeks: So that we gave that over for lost too, fearing it had undergone like fate with ours.
A good story, excellently told, and illustrated with a vigorous picture (plate 29); a complete lie. Yes, ‘Cristof Frit from Ulm’, soldier (‘S.L.’ has Surgeon, another lie) at 9 fl. per month, did sail in Ternate (Hague codex 31 folio 277); but (DR) she arrived safe and sound in Table Bay on September 27. And yes, Europa did sail with her, but arrived at the Cape the day after her (DR), not ‘three weeks’ later; and Ternate arrived, still unwrecked, on December 31, 1681, at Batavia (Batavia Diary). Nevertheless, Fryke's observations at the Cape are by no means without value, although many of them are stolen from Saar.
What observations I made in this Country during the time of our stay, I will now give account of. I know well, that this Capo de bonn' Esperance hath already been described by many, but because I found the conditions thereof at my time different in many respects from what I had read, therefore I will add my Observations to those made before and after me. Also I shall not be able to give the exact Date when this or that occurred, because, on account of my being much busied with my Calling, I could not always take note of it. Also, the first Description which I made was lost at Sea, so that I can now set down nothing but what has remained in my Memory.
In the year 1650 [sic] a Fort was built by the Dutch at this Cape, and ever since all the shipping that comes thither, whether French, English, or any other Nation, must pay their Anchorage*, Water, and Customs Duties. This Land, for its situation and fruitfulness, is very commodious for all that go from any part of Europe to the East-Indies, for the refreshing of themselves, and recruiting of provisions, and taking in of fresh Water, which comes out of the Rocks and Mountains of the Country and waters the Lands around. Within the Land, it is richly adorned with abundance of Fruit-Trees; But near the Shore, there are few, or none, by reason of the terrible Winds and Hurricanes, that beat upon it in a fearful manner, which come generally down from the Mountain called by the Dutch Tafel-Bergh; And by reason of these stormy winds, this Cape goes frequently with us by the name of the Storm Cape.
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The Dutch, that are there in Garrison, have planted good Orchards and Gardens, which afford all sorts of Sallads, Cabages, Turnips, Cowcumbers, and all sorts of Kitchen Herbs; All which are great refreshments to those that come from Sea. And likewise the free Inhabitants, of which there were already some hundreds when I was there, have Land which produces good Corn, Wheat, and Oats, &c. and Vineyards: So that one finds there plenty of good Beer, Wine, excellent Bread, and such sort of things as well as in Europe.
I dieted at one of these Free-men's houses, and I had a very good Dinner of Meat, roast and boiled, and Fish, with excellent Sallad, and Butter, and Cheese, and delicate Beer, all for one Shelling, (which is but six pence English); but Wine I was forced to pay for, after the rate of half a Ricks-doller the quart.
Besides the great store of Fruits which are common in Europe, there is great plenty of admirable Lemon and Orange Trees, which afford a very beautiful prospect.
The Haven is called Tafel-Baey, which is to say, Table-Bay, so called from a vast Mountain just by the Shore which is called Tafel-Bergh, in English Table-Hill, from its figure, which is seemingly square and flat on top: It is seen a vast way off at Sea; and it lieth about fifteen Miles* from the utmost point of the Cape; between which, lieth the Hill Lewen-Bergh, or Lion's-Hill, so called, by reason of its resembling a Lion in shape; the head comes quite up to the Table-Hill, and the tail comes down into the Sea.
I had great desire to go up to the top of that Hill e're I went from the Cape; So having got some others who desired it too, we got leave and set out the next morning early. It is about a Mile distance from the Castle; we went up it a good pace for a matter of four hours, and yet we were not near to the top: We were pretty well tired, and more afraid of being too long about it, and of being belated; for in the evening it is extraordinary dangerous being there, by reason of the wild Beasts that then come abroad; for we thought it better to return, to get in by daylight: Yet our Curiosity on the other hand pressed us to climb onwards. But a Cloud came over us which wetted us to the Skin, whereupon we again changed our intent, and returned back streight, and came into the Castle about half an hour before night; so that we could not compass our desire, nor could ever yet hear of any one that had been up to the top of it.
Shortly before my coming, the Dutch East-India Company set and maintained here some Miners* with their Foreman, since it was believed that there were some Veins of Gold hereabouts; But when I came here again on my return from the Indies I could hear no more of this.
Provision is here so plenty, that the Dutch have it mighty cheap, for a little Copperwire for Bracelets, for Tobacco, and for any such trifle; So that a large Beast doth not stand a man in more than a couple of Shillings.
There are a great many Lions and Porcupines. In the Governour's Hall [see Museum*] are two Lions Skins. The one was of a Lion, that one of the Hottentots shot with his Arrow: The other was killed by a Porcupine. This Creature hath on its back a sharp sort of Prickle; near a spang long, and so hard, that one can bore a hole in a Plank with
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them, so that they serve many Trades-Men for Bodkins. And the Lion falling furiously upon this Creature, it struck him with his prickly bristles into the Breast, and made him bleed to death, tho' the Porcupine perished likewise in the fight; and they were found dead by one another, and both their Skins were hung up for a Memorandum.
Besides these, there are many Elephants in that Country, and a sort of Beast they call Bavians, the same we call Baboons; which very much resemble aged men of 80 years. Some of our men had orders once to go into the Wood to cut down part of it. Amongst them was one comical fellow from the Tirol, who had beaten one to Death in a quarrel at Presburgh; and being forc'd to fly, had listed himself a Soldier in the East-India Company, and so made his escape. He staid a little after the rest to ease Nature; and laid his Satchel down at some distance from him; One of these Baboons came and took away every thing, which made very good sport for the rest. Ostridges are here also very common; many of the Eggs whereof I have eaten. In Holland the Barbers hang up their empty Shells in their Shops, and keep usually their Cotton-Wool in them. On my return voyage I took two such along with me, to bring them to my Fatherland, but from the great Tossings to and fro they became broken. And among many other sorts of Birds, which they have, that are uncommon with us, there is a sort called Sea-Ravens; but of these there hath been account enough given by several Writers.
In the Sea, all round this place, one may see abundance of great fish called North-Capers, but none of them are catched about the Cape; They have a snout like that of an Hog, thro' which they throw up Water as high as an house, and in such a quantity, as to fill almost a whole ship, and it comes down like a violent shower of Rain: They are always to be seen about the Cape, but they do no manner of harm.
There is a prodigious quantity of other sorts of Fish, both in the Sea, and in the Rivers too. We went one night with a Net to have some sport, and at two pulls had so many, that we stood Ankle-Deep in 'em. The fish we catched were made very much like our Carps; and here are also abundance of Tortoises.
The natural Inhabitants of this place, are called Hottentots, meer Heathens; of no extraordinary size; for the most part very lean and meagre; their Language very unpleasant, rattling like Turkies when they speak. They go stark naked, only having a Sheeps Skin about them, the Tail whereof comes before their Privities.
When a Ship is new come in, as soon as the Boat lands any of the Men, then as it comes back, they also come to the Ship, always four by four, whereof one is a Head-Man, to beg Bisket of the Sea-men, which they love exceedingly; when they ask for it, they cry Broqua, which signifies Bread; and when such is given them, they tread it under their Feet [item 10, word for word], and then lift up their Sheep-Skins and let it be seen, How they are Made, and how in their Youth one of their Testicles* is cut off. Their chief Ornaments (if such may be so called) is on their Legs; they take an Ox, or Sheep's guts, and thrusting out the excrements a little, just to let them lye close and flat; and while they are moist, they wrap them about their Legs, and there let them stick. These very guts is part of their food too; for just in this same pickle, they broil them a little over the fire,
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and eat them. So it may properly be said, That they are meat and cloth to them: But to see them use it either way, might very probably give any man besides them, a vomit. They use to besmear their body with all manner of dirt and nastiness, which makes them stink worse than a Goat.
Upon their heads they stick all sorts of little Sea-shells, and small Copper Rings, that come from Neurenbergh, which the Seamen bring with them, to give them: And for one of them they will shew you some of their Tricks; Among which one is, to throw a Dart or long Stick*, with which they will hit within the compass of a farthing a mighty distance off.
As for their Religion, little can be said of it: Also their Language is not understood by any, that ever I heard of. They use Commonly to get together near to the Sea-shore in the morning by Sun-rising, and there they get in a Ring, holding each other fast by their hands, and dance about on the Sand, looking up towards Heaven, saying something in their Language; and then write some strange unintelligible characters and figures in the Sand, and so depart; all of which undoubtedly is intended in honour to some Deity. I have asked some of them that could speak a little broken Dutch, what thoughts they had of a God, and whom they believed in: They answered, that they thought that there was one above, that had made the Hills, and that Sea which we saw, and all that was in them.
They are very good Footmen, and run very swiftly, which make the Dutch keep always a Troop of Horse there, to catch them in case of any Insurrection: For they dare not trust them in the least. In mischief they are cunning enough, tho' wonderfully stupid in any thing else. If they are not hungry, they will not work, tho' you beat them to death; but when their hungry belly incites them to it, they will work like horses. It is not safe to break one's word with them; and if one should not give them what was promised when their work is done, a man would go in danger of his life.
Their Habitations are most on green Meadows, and grounds that bear sweet Herbs for Pasture for their Cattle. Their Houses are made of Sea-Reeds joyn'd together, and fastned on top; just like our Hop-poles, when they are laid up for the Winter; and when their Cattle hath eaten up all the Pasture all about them, then they remove their Houses, to some fresh place, and settle there again for some time.
As to what belongs to those we call Free-men, of which I made some mention before, they are such of our Men, as have served the Company in the station of a Soldier, or any other way during the space of ten or twelve years, and then desired to settle there, to trade or plant, which they may then do, paying a certain sum of Money, and all Imposts and Customs to the Company. These have dwelling-houses built after a manner like as in Holland, but not so high nor so fine.
The chief Commodities which the Company trades in, to quit the Costs of their Garrison there, is Sea-Dogs, which are catched here in vast quantities. They boil the fat out of them, and the Skins are hung up to dry, which they send afterwards to Holland [sic].
When any ship comes there, an Order is read to all the People that are on Board,
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forbidding them to buy any thing of the Hottentots except Ostridges Eggs, and other like trifles. All Commodities of any use or value, as Rhinoceros Horns, Elephants Teeth, and Sea-Dog Skins, are wholly ingrossed by the Company.
Justice here is very severe, in respect of any of these Heathens especially; one instance whereof I was an eye-witness of, while I was there; Three of them having ravished a Christian Maid-servant, were hung up by the heels on a Gibbet, and so ended their lives, after they had hanged there about thirteen or fourteen hours.
There are four Seasons of the year here, tho' in a quite different time from ours: For our Summer is their Winter; and in September, which was the time I was there, it was their Spring-season.
Their Winters are cold and always foggy and misty, but there is never any Frost or Snow. Thus far will suffice to inform the Reader of the Nature and Customs of the Capo de bonn' Esperance. I proceed now with the continuation of our Voyage.
After we had spent a pretty while here, and were very well recovered from our late Affliction, we prepared our selves to be gone in the Europa [sic], which by this time was come, and ready to sail off again for Batavia; and with the first fair Wind we set sail [dr 15, 16/10]....
Arrived ‘November 30, 1680’, actually (Batavia Diary) December 30, 1681. Indonesia. Ceylon: this part translated in my ‘Germans in Dutch Ceylon’, Colombo 1653. Japan. Siam. |
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