Cape Good Hope 1652-1702

39 Nicolaus de Graaff

(See also items 22, 28, 36, 49, 62.) He made no stay in Ceylon, merely calling at Colombo and Galle.

On the 9th of January 1679, being ready to sail [still in Briel], and our crew mustered, we sailed from the Bay of Punto Gale, but when without must drop anchor again until the next day, when our crew was again inspected and the ship closely searched, to see

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whether any had stowed away. After this we weighed anchor towards evening with a salute of some guns, and set sail with pleasant weather and a northerly wind, steering for the Equator.

Our companion ship, Ceilon of the Amsterdam Chamber*, wore the flag* at the maintop, Captain Verdonk, lately Administrator of Negombo, being in charge of the two ships Ceilon and the Briel. During the whole voyage to the Cape de Bone Esperance we had continual fair weather, and for most of the time ran before the wind, making good runs up to the 5th of March [dr] when we arrived safely at the Cape, finding there in the Bay our companion the ship Ceilon, she having arrived a day or two before us [dr 4/3].

Ten days later there also arrived at the Cape the little flute* the [Juffer] Cornelia [dr 15/3] and the ship Blauwe Hulk, laden with rice and other goods from Batavia for the Cape [dr 26/3].

We stayed at the Cape for seven weeks awaiting the ships from Batavia, to go with them to the Fatherland under the command of an Admiral*; or the ships from the Fatherland, whichever should turn up first, since we were unsure of the conditions in the Fatherland. Meanwhile our crew went ashore daily to refresh and amuse themselves: some set out with horse and cart to visit the gardens and vineyards and the dwellings of the farmers; others were busy shooting or fishing; but I, with my Assistant-Surgeon Gerrit van Laar of Hoorn and Kersten Erasmus of Tonderen, wished to see the high and renowned Table Mountain, having already tried twice to climb it but having been compelled to return half-way without success, partly because of the toilsome and impassable ascent, partly because it was for the most part covered with clouds. On the 19th of March we set out between 7 and 8 in the morning, the air being clear and pleasant, since not only the Table Mountain but also the Lion Hill and other hills around were fully and clearly visible. From the Fort we walked uphill by many difficult paths and gullies, climbing through the hills, rocks and bush. We found also a deep valley in which there stood much bush and various tall and thick trees, whose roots were washed and watered by the fresh water running down from the hill. There we met with a great [Platteklip] gorge, at its start about a stone-throw wide, but decreasing above to 6 or 7 feet, being from the bottom to the top very steep, grown with coarse grass and marram, which we had to take hold of in climbing and so clamber up with hands and feet. On both sides were incredibly high cliffs and rocks, which seemed to reach the clouds. Passing through this gorge we came to a valley, and must then ascend another difficult but short cleft before reaching the flat top of the Table Mountain.

We arrived there between 1 and 2 of the afternoon, and having strolled around there together for a time, my two companions wished that we should go down, since the evening was approaching, and we were without arms, and had nothing to eat but a piece of dry bread that we had in our bag; and also since otherwise we should be compelled to pass the night on this high and dangerous hill as if in a desert, not without danger of being devoured by the lions, bears [sic], tigers and other wild beasts, of which many dwell in these valleys and caves. It happened that seven men of the ship Pijlzwaard* were

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inquisitive enough to climb the Table Mountain: of these four made their way up by the usual route through the gorge, three arriving at the top and one remaining behind on the way. The other three went by the valley between the Table Mountain and the Devil's Hill [Saddle] and were never seen again, and were undoubtedly devoured by the wild beasts, one being from Harlinge, one from Hoorn, and the third an Easterner*: since the lions and tigers are so bold there, that they dare not only to drag a sheep from the flock and devour it, but even take the shepherds and the sheepdogs, or at times by night the cattle from the stalls and farmhouses. My companions put forward also the objection, that bad weather might come, and the hill be covered with clouds and storms, so that we would not be able to find the paths nor descend. But all their arguments could not persuade me to go down, since I was fully resolved to remain there, whether alone or with the two others, during the coming night and most of the next day, so as to examine everything on all sides and take note of it.

As they would not stay, they set off downwards between 4 and 5 o'clock, and according to their report arrived at the houses late in the evening. Being thus alone I strolled in solitude on the flat top of the Table Mountain until 8 in the evening, the moon and stars shining very brightly, and then lay down to rest in some scrub between the rocks; but little sleep could I get, especially when I thought of the height of the hill, and the dangerous solitude of the same, where dwelt so many man-eating lions and evil tigers, and where, should anything happen to me, I could be heard by no one, and far less helped. But GOD shielded and protected me, not only that night but also in many other dangers. I heard no roar or howl of any wild beast, nor any noise but from some small frogs dwelling in the scrub and marshes here, who sang all night in their fashion. Sometimes also I heard some small birds sing; also I saw five roebucks, as large as an ordinary dog, chestnutbrown in colour and fur, short-eared, with a long sharp snout and jet-brown eyes. Also I found under the rocks two nests of Dassen or Steenbokjes, as if hollowed out, much of their dung lying around these nests.

As to the upper-flat of the Table Mountain, the same is for the most part flat, but in places hilly, with flat and shallow valleys, in which grow bush, grass, and here and there some low trees.

Arriving on the flat one finds a long and wide area, seeming as if floored with hard rocks and flat stones, between which are hollows, and in many other holes and waterworn rocks there is very lovely fresh water, so that there is no lack of drink.

About half an hour's walk from the place where one comes up, eastwards, there is a shallow valley, where there are many wonderful rocks looking as if piled up by hand, this valley being grown with scrub and marram.

Passing over this one comes to a ravine [Saddle] which divides the Table Mountain from the Devil's Hill. This is dangerously deep, with many cliffs and incredible clefts, holes and caves, to look at which affrightened me.

Standing on the edge of the Table Mountain one can see over the other hills that lie around, which look small from here though they are in reality high.

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The large ships at anchor in the Table Bay look no larger than herring boats. I could see the longboats* and shallops* rowing to and fro between the ships and the land, looking like black spots on the water.

From the east side I went along another deep valley breast-high in marram and scrub, to the west side of the hill, and found it almost the same, with hills and scrub and full of stones. After that I made my way to the north side, again crossing the hill, and found about in the centre of the same some shallow and marshy water- and mud-pools, like the water-pools on the flatland below. The water was still and very clear, but when I moved it, it became turbid and thick. However closely I examined the marshes and pools I found no fish, as some have tried to deceive us, but many small grey frogs which as I have said amused me all night with their song. These pits and water-holes are not above a foot or a foot and a half deep. Around the marshes I found here and there some water-channels and clefts in the rocks, through which the water ran slowly westwards. From there I walked to the north-west end of the Mountain, finding it of the same nature. Here also are boulders, just like grave-stones, and between them very lovely and clear water, as also in other hollowed stones.

The whole Mountain has on all sides many projections and gullies, so that one needs fully 24 hours to walk over and inspect the top of the Table Mountain.

Having walked on the same alone for about 24 hours, I came next day in the afternoon to the gorge by which we came up, and descended the same, being compelled at times to hold on to the marram and long grass to avoid falling. Having passed the large cleft, the descent became somewhat more gradual, and I found in a dip in the ground a large and long smooth stone [the Platteklip], over which a water-course ran like a little rivulet; and having come to the foot of the Mountain, I came towards evening to my two companions, and told them my adventures.

After resting somewhat I measured with some geometric instruments the exact height of this, and also of the other hills near by, and found the Table Mountain to be 298 Rhineland roods above sealevel, or 3578 feet. The top of the Devil's Hill is 3298 feet above sealevel and the Lion Hill is 2172 feet high.

We also took cross-bearings of the whole Table Bay, being busy with this work until the 12th of April [dr], when the ship Nieuw Middelburg arrived in the Bay of the Cape de Bone Esperance from the Fatherland [sic: news dr 15/3], bringing news of a complete and long-wished-for peace between the King of France and the States-General of the United Netherlands and their allies. In rejoicing at this news we let fly the flags and pennants, and fired the cannon until the echoes resounded in the hills.

We also now received orders from the Governor to make our two ships ready to sail for the Fatherland, since the ships from Batavia still did not appear.

Having provided ourselves with stores and fresh water, we sailed from the Cape de Bone Esperance on the 19th of April [dr] after some salutes, steering for the island of Saint Helena....