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4 Gijsbert Heeck
Translated from xerographs of his ‘Journael ofte Dagelijcxsz Aenteijkeninge ...’ in the Hague Archives, Kol. Aanwinsten 1903, XV. It was also partially transcribed in ‘Die Brandwag’ of August 15 and September 1, 1910, by Dr. Leo Fouche, with occasional misprints and un-indicated omissions, but with valuable notes which have been made use of here. (Incidentally, he committed the quite unpardonable crime of marking on the manuscript the parts which he wanted transcribed.) Heeck mentions in his text that he first went out East in 1633, and tells how, after his second voyage to the Indies in 1641 to 1648, he settled at Bunschoten, his birth-place, fully intending to abandon sea-going; but that after twice becoming a widower he changed his mind, and in 1654 again engaged with the V.O.C. at Middelburg for five years as Upper-Surgeon at 45 gld. per month; and boarded Vereenigde Provintien at Rammekens on November 16 that year, taking along a nine-year-old son. Next day Pieter Sterthemius, E.O. Member of the Council of the Indies, took charge of the fleet, the other ships being Prins Wilhelm and the yachts* Der Goes, Domburgh, and
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Coukerken (which however sailed independently), embarking with his family in Vereenigde Provintien. She sailed at once, with 430 souls on the roll (besides women and children), of whom 3 died before sailing and 40 were missing, ‘mostly sailors’. His list of officers is useful, as helping to define two ranks (here starred, see the Index) which are often mistranslated: it includes Chief Mate, two Mates, a Derdewaak*, Boatswain, Schieman*. The ship carried 6 metal* and 26 iron guns, including 4 cannon-royal (halve Cartouwen). Channel. Downs with an English pilot, to await a fair wind: English bumboats brought beer, bread, mutton, dried herrings, etc., and live sheep. November 23 anchored off Dover Castle, ‘which is said to have been set up by the Romans in the days of Julius Caesar, or as others say was built by the Devil in one night, which seems too much of a fable’. Wind so strong that the sheet anchor* must be dropped, and the yards and topmasts lowered. December 3 off the Lizard. Rationing from December 7. January 15 to 22, 1655 at Cape Verde for water, birds, fish: the natives described. February 2 joined for a time by Vogel Phenicx. Equator February 7. February 19 overtook flute* Coningh David. Abrolhos, ‘in Portuguese “Open your
eyes”.’ March 6 at 36o 9′ South, ‘now steering therefore for the most part to the East, straight for the Cabo: van goede Hope’. March 25: ‘we now saw daily the large gulls called Jan van Gent’. March 27, ‘a quantity of small Sea-Swallows’. March 30 met Maagd van Enchuijsen, ‘a war-yacht* of more than 150 lasten, manned with 133 men and armed with 28 to 30 guns’.
Today the 2d [April 1655] in the morning, the wind still southerly, a stiff topsail breeze, sailing for the most part East, the Maagd van Enchuijsen a good distance aft of us. We had clear and good weather, and before midday saw the land of the Cabo: de Bona Esperance, finding ourselves arrived directly in front of the Table Bay, thus named for a very high hill, broad and quite flat on top, in shape like a table, and therefore very readily to be distinguished from other hills, since no more like it are to be found for a great distance around here. We fired a gun, and flew the flag aft according to sea-custom, to let the yacht know, setting our course directly for the roads, making a good speed. After midday we sighted a ship coming out of the bay, taking her course (because of the wind) along the North side of the Robben Eijlandt, thus named for the quantity of Robben or Sea-dogs which dwell on the same: it lies about 2 miles* from the mainland, being entirely dry and barren. In the first watch* [8 p.m. to midnight] it fell dead calm, so that we were compelled to anchor between the Robben Eijlandt and the Lion Hill, in 23 fathoms, rocky ground: this hill is thus named because it somewhat resembles a lying lion, as also because many lions dwell on it.
3rd. At dawn we again set sail, with a weak Southerly breeze, and before midday anchored [dr] in the roads of the Table Bay, firing five guns as the signal of a journey performed, which were duly replied to by the Fort ‘The Hope’ on land, and at once secured our ship with 2 anchors*, and struck the yards and topmasts, since at times it can blow exceptionally hard here, especially when the aforesaid Table Mountain is covered with clouds.
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We found here at anchor the galliot* Rode Vos, also the yacht* Coukerken which had sailed from Zeelant on December 10 last year and had arrived here yesterday [dr]. They reported, that they had spoken the yacht Domburgh (which sailed the day after us) 3 days ago near the land, she having lain here for 14 days before now continuing her journey to Batavia [dr 18/3, 31/3]. Also, that the ship which we had seen yesterday was the Wapen van Amsterdam, which had sailed from Veere on October 16 last year [dr 18/3, 31/3].... Shortly after us there also came to the roads [dr], firstly the yacht Blommendal, then the ship Vogel Phenix, and after midday the yacht Maagd van Enchuijsen and the flute* Coning David. In a word, some sailed well and others seemed hardly to be able to keep up, yet all arrived here on one day, which seems strange and well fits the saying ‘Walk it or run it, but get there on time’.
The Hon. Cmdr. Johannes Riebeecq, Upper-Merchant* and Administrator here, came aboard to welcome the Hon. Pieter Sterthemius.... [long list of ships recently calling:] in a word, the Rendezvous is now seen to be here; but such would not be the case if the Hon. Directors had not strictly ordered the same [7/10/54], since before this everyone tried to make the fastest possible passage, for which the Hon. Lords ordered a notable sum of money, called premium-money, for whoever completed it in the fewest months. Because of their greed for this the skippers, mates and others that shared it would often refuse to touch anywhere until forced thereto by the most extreme need, so that there was a scarcity of water and food.... For this reason, all ships, for whatever Chamber* they sail, are now compelled (as aforesaid) to touch at this Cabo: de Goede Hope, unless this is impossible owing to severe weather or other causes, as shown by their daily log, on pain of losing the said premium. But the time that they lie here is not reckoned in their passage.
Towards evening the Hon. Cmdr. Riebeecq went ashore again, with a salute of some guns.
4th. This morning we went out shooting with the hunter* of the Fort The Hope, a Frenchman [Resolutions 17/7/55], going along the whole length of the Salt River, but at this time seeing few geese or other wildfowl because of the unsettled weather, with rain and a strong wind. Behind the Table Mountain we came into a village of the inhabitants, called Hottento: and Hottento: Broqua because they thus sing of themselves for a little bread [see Hottentots*, Name]: it lay near a fresh-water stream [Liesbeek], grown with much deulten [?], unknown reeds and other scrub, a convenient hidingplace for all wild beasts, as also we could trace there the still-fresh tracks of Lions, Tigers, wolves, Jackals, Deer, terribly large Baboons and other such animals. And to tell the truth, they were the poorest little dwellings that I ever saw anywhere, consisting of straw mats, made quite round on top in the fashion of bake-ovens in Holland, with a square opening through which they must creep in and out. Further, we saw no cultivation whatever around their huts, since they know nothing of sowing or reaping, nor of fishing [sic], nor of bird-catching although enough of both fish and birds are to be had here, nor of any means to obtain their sustenance other than the violent killing of Deer and other
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wild beasts with Hasegaijen or darts* [worp-pijlen], bows and arrows, and such weapons; and eating these quite raw, bloody, dirty and unwashed, intestines and all without distinction; and eating even men, as often happened before now, and (according to the hunter) happened not long ago to some who went unarmed too far inland. But those near the Fort, who come there daily, and are given food when they bring stumps and tree-roots suitable for firewood - these do no one any harm, even if they go quite far inland alone [like] 2 comrades whom we met here.... They lay, seven of them, in a wood not far from here, to cut and saw planks and other usable timber, both for the Commander's house and a little chapel in the Fort, and also for a little yacht* which was in the stocks on the beach [dr 13/3]; but this day, being Sunday, they had gone out shooting for amusement. After we had chatted a while they went back to the said wood: from this it is to be seen, that here inland there is enough timber to be had, though the bringing of it is toilsome and difficult.
Around here we saw more than 100 cattle grazing... and a quantity of sheep with wide tails, like those of Zourat [Surat] and Persia, where some weigh little less than 20 lb., being almost entirely composed of fat. But, according to what the hunter* told us, they would sell none of them [dr 10/2], and themselves never kill any, unless so sick that they can no longer keep up with the herd, but make do with the Milk only; and this, according to him, was so scanty that often they must fast for 2 or 3 days before they got any. Hence it may well be seen, that from their great and intolerable hunger they are forced to eat everything they can get, raw or cooked, dirty or clean, fresh or stinking, since nothing matters to them so long as they can guzzle it down. Their belly is almost like that of the Ostriches (of which also there are a quantity here). Furthermore, they know nothing of God or of His Commandments, living in the wilds little better than the beasts. When the New Moon shows itself, they seem to have a certain pleasure in singing, dancing and making a noise in honour of the same; and then those who are yet unmarried (after their fashion) that night take women, one, two or more as they meet them, whether old or young, pretty or ugly (since in looks they all resemble each other, with little to choose between them), and this without any ceremony of marriage [not confirmed elsewhere]. But the women are quite shameless, exposing themselves for a little bread or other food, even if their own husbands are standing near by.... Their clothing is nothing but the skins of wild beasts and seals, the men wearing one skin only, not longer than to their waist, and the women 2, 3, or more skins, somewhat longer, and all also covering their privities with a small skin. The men are tolerably tall and well built, and exceptionally fast runners, but by nature cruel, sly and rascally: the
women are quite short of stature and very ugly. The ornaments of both sexes consist of a number of rings of copper, ivory, leather and other materials, around their arms and legs: also as many chains of poor red corals [beads] as their means will allow, hanging from the holes in their earlobes: they also plait some little shells in their hair, smearing this, as also their whole body, with every sort of fat that they can get, and from this they stink exceptionally foully (as do most of the black peoples in general), and otherwise they would be yellow rather
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[6] Fleet of 1653: at left Maeght van Enkhuysen with Vice-Admiral's flag on foremast; at right probably Brederode, with Admiral's flag at the main. Ned. Hist. Scheepvaart Museum, Amsterdam.
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than black because of the cold climate of this land. They also cut and burn [see Cicatrisation*] many signs in their body for ornament, and go barefoot, or sometimes with skins tied under them, and indeed go almost naked however cold be the weather. In hair and all else they resemble the Caffers of Guinea, Angola and Monzembicque, their neighbours; but since (as aforesaid) they live far further to the southwards, they are nothing like so black of skin, and somewhat better built. In a word, it is almost impossible, and quite unbelievable by those who have never seen such people, to realize their wild, strange, and altogether beast-like manners.
Since we gained little here from shooting, we went back to the Fort The Hope. Meanwhile the Hon. Sterthemius also came ashore, with his wife and children, to remain there for some days, being properly welcomed and suitably greeted with some guns, both from the Fort as also from the redoubt Sandenburgh, lying at the mouth of the Salt River [Duynhoop].
This Fort* was first begun by the Hon. Cmdr. Riebeecq 3 years ago, by order of the Lords Proprietors of the East-India Company, consisting (like a field-work) of good clay sods: these are very suitable for brick-making [dr 11/6/54], with which also the Commander's house and the little chapel have been built, they being actually busy in burning an oven-full, so that in time the whole Fort can be built of bricks. It is tolerably large, with 4 bastions, well provided with cannon and all munitions of war, and closed in front by an earthen outwork, convenient for an entrance, in which are lying 2 new cannon-royal [halve Carthaunen], for which the carriages are not yet made.
The redoubt Sandenburgh lies about a gunshot from the Fort The Hope, inland towards the Salt River, manned by 10 or 12 soldiers under a Corporal, having for its defence 2 large iron guns, with the necessary muskets and other arms. Thus those actually stationed here on land are as a rule more than 125 persons besides women and small children, together with those who sail in the aforesaid galliots* [Tulp, Roode Vos]. To the West side of the Fort, along the flowing stream whence we drew water [Fresh River], there was now a fine enclosed Garden,* where a Dutch Farmer [Boom: dr 10/9] of Amsterdam was set with his wife and children, to sow and cultivate the same, living there in a little house built of reeds, looking after the milch-cows, sheep, pigs and hens, and doing other such household tasks, providing the Administrator's table with fresh butter, milk, vegetables, fruits and such like that can be grown here. Carrots [Wortelen], cabbage, beetroots or carrot-salad [Bietwortelen ofte Carotensalad], beets [Beet], onions, cress, sorrel and corn-salad [Vetticq] grow here freely, as also radishes and water-lemons*; but parsley, ‘Madjeleijn’ [?], sage, tarragon, artichokes, asparagus are meagre and few. Chervil will not grow here at all: the white cabbages do not grow large, and I never saw runner-beans or peas, and believe that these could not stand up to the terribly strong winds that come down over the Table Mountain. This Garden is being daily extended, and is surrounded and cut through by many channels leading from the stream, for the irrigation of the same; but around the Fort* there is only a wide, dry moat, which nevertheless could very readily be filled with water if needs be, though at
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present this seems unnecessary. We now daily received aboard some sacks of greenstuff such as cabbage, carrots, red beetroot [Kroten], radishes and black radishes [Rammelasz] for refreshing, both for the Cajuit* and the crew: but cattle (as aforesaid) the inhabitants would not barter - which, because of the quantity we had seen inland, seemed pretty strange to us.
We could see no [hope of any] barter or trade with these folk: profits [must] come for the most part from the skins of the Sea-dogs or Robben, for which were used the aforesaid galliots along the coast around here, and principally on the Dassen Eijlandt, killing them with clubs for the sake of the skins, which were then dried on the rocks. At this time 4 men were also set on the Robben Eijlandt, to keep watch there. We were told (but could scarcely believe it) that the sealskins could bring in 20 thousand guilders more than the total costs of the Fort, the garrison, and other necessary expenses. [His doubts were justified: see Seals* in the Index.]
Those stationed here as soldiers and sailors do not find things too good, since they must daily do heavy work, some in the making and firing of bricks, others in the burning of lime from the large Mother-of-Pearl shells which lie in considerable numbers on the shore, and others again in the cutting, sawing, and preparing of wood and in bringing it from the forests, and many other such tasks. At this time there came also some Biscayan* shallops* [sloepen] with the Dutch ships, to be used for whaling here in the Bay and along the coasts, where whales are seen at times in great numbers, and there arrived also the pans and other implements for rendering train-oil as is done in Groenlandt. This was taken in hand here many years ago also, with some small ships, but, because of the long journey, did not bring in much more than the costs, and was therefore abandoned [it again now proved a failure].
Further, use is made here, in place of bacon and meat [dr 6/4/54] of Penguins or Dodersen, large oily birds which live here on the shores, unable to fly and killed with clubs only, but very unpleasant and foul to eat, this causing many who are unaccustomed to it to desire most heartily to leave here.
In the evening we returned aboard, having killed only a cormorant and a plover.
5th and 6th. Our crew was continually busy with getting water and seeing to the ship, the blocks and the rigging. The skiff* twice went out fishing with the seine, but each time brought little aboard. This day the Hon. Sterthemius again came aboard with his wife and children....
7th. This morning Heer Sterthemius again went ashore, taking some 50 of our soldiers as also proportionate numbers from the other ships, to inspect (with the Hon. Riebeecq and other senior officials) the forest from which the wood was brought, which also was done. On coming aboard they told us of having passed 3 little villages behind the Table Mountain, with a great quantity of cattle and sheep, among which [latter] were many with quite smooth hair and long legs like dogs, of which some (red in colour) were seen near the first village, from which it was supposed that the she-goats [sic] may at times breed from the large dogs or jackals; but this is uncertain.
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[News of a large ship seen on the 4th from Robben Island.]
8th. Fairly good weather. We now had nearly all our water aboard, and had heeled the ship and cleansed her hull as far as posible, since we were excessively foul....
Towards evening a man came aboard from the Robben Island, reporting ... that a sail had again been sighted close to the shore; and a Mate was sent in the longboat*. [She was the yacht* Cabeljauw, from Batavia with rice, arrack, sugar etc. for the Cape, and with news from Bantam, Amboina etc., and of the return-fleet.]
9th. Early in the day-watch* [8 a.m. to noon] the said Cabbeljauw came to anchor near us, firing 3 guns which we at once repeated as a welcome. Our longboat went once more for the water needed for this day, and in the afternoon went as far up into the Salt River as was possible, to bring in firewood of which we were in great need.
Today, the 10th in the morning there arrived here [dr] from the island Ste Helena the galliot Tulp ... he brought with him 2 Persian horses, which has been provisionally set on the said island by the return-fleet [of the previous year], since because of the war with England it had not touched at the Cape, to be used here for hauling wood: these were thus now 8 in number [dr 10/4]. They seem somewhat small on an average, but are nevertheless useful for drawing waggons and carts, of which there is a pretty fair provision, and others are being made in the forest.
There were here at this time, besides the Hon. Cmdr. Riebeecq, also Fredricq Verburgh, Under-Merchant* and Secunde* [and others listed]. But there was a strong rumour abroad that, since most of the work of fortifications and so on was almost finished, so that so many people were now considered unnecessary here, the number would be reduced to 40 or 50 persons at the most.
Note: about a year ago [dr 28/1/54: see Mining*] a silversmith, serving on land here as a soldier, discovered a certain silver-lode in the ascent between the Table and the Lion Hill [Kloof], and made a silver spoon therefrom, which was sent, together with the ore, to the Lords Proprietors in the Fatherland: it was well recognised as genuine [sic: letter from them 28/12/54], but the mineral so scarce and so toilsome to dig out that it could not cover the costs, and for that reason was not further developed.
11th. We went ashore early to hear the sermon of Domine Bushoven of the ship Phenix; but since we found the Fort closed, the 10 or 12 of us resolved to climb up the Table Mountain. However on arrival at the foot most turned back, seeing no hope of doing this; but I, with the Sick-Comforter* [and three others] encouraged one another and climbed up gradually, finding on the way a man from the Phenicx and 4 from the Bloemendal, also doing their best to get to the top, although some of their companions had found the trip too toilsome and had also turned back. The further we went up, the steeper and more impassable we found the path, overgrown with many low milkwoodtrees and other thorny and hooked bushes, and between these with much long rushy grass like float-grass [lies], almost like the marram-grass on the dunes in Holland, and with other sharp and prickly scrub. We were also impeded by many small and large stones, which appeared to have been torn away from the rocks by rain and wind, of which
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some were as large as full-sized longboats and skiffs: these indeed compelled us to make innumerable halts for rest. Some of us were seen to suffer also from thirst, since the terrible heat here between the rocks was unbearable, no wind being able to fan us there; and there was no water to be had for our relief except underfoot. Some for this reason licked the rocks where a little seemed to ooze out, somewhat to quench their thirst, but to no avail; but since I was still fasting I could well endure the thirst.
At last the Sick-Comforter, the Carpenter's-mate, and one from the Blommendal's crew halted, saying that they could climb no further. We others went on, however, and at last (almost completely out of breath) reached the top, having been on the way for about 5 hours, at a guess. Here this mountain divided again into three parts, each pretty high. We first climbed up the East side to seek for fresh water, but in vain: then on the West side where we found it abundantly, in shallow grooves and other hollows of the rocks. In these were also many irregular and snow-white little stones which seemed to grow there, in my opinion congealed by the cold and cloudy air which often lies over that part, and by the accretive nature of the stone [? ‘steenagtige groeijsamheit’]. We did not go to the South, since nothing was to be seen there except a quantity of unknown shrubs, and many entirely barren areas.... We sat down here beside the water to rest a little, eating a piece of dry biscuit which one of the sailors had brought up with him, and meanwhile were rejoined by the three comrades we had left behind. Being somewhat refreshed, we went a little along the edge, whence there was a very horrifying view downwards, the Fort The Hope looking quite small, and the Garden as if laid out in rectangular plots by lines, the sea covered with foam as if painted with the very small ships in it, all looking stiff and motionless. Indeed it is so exceedingly high that from here one can see no men in the Fort or on the open spaces, although on the shore they can be seen because of the whiteness of the sand, and seem little larger than crows. We found here a black flagstaff standing in a gully, brought up there by some enthusiasts and marked with some letters and signs, to which I added the initials of my name. Also we saw meanwhile a ship come in around the point of the Bay [Mouille Point], towed in by 2 longboats*; and as we came somewhat
nearer to the Lion Hill, we saw another ship out at sea, as far away as we could see, from here seeming to be sailing in the clouds, most strangely. From here we could see along over the Lions Rump, since we were considerably higher than its Head. Also we perceived very few birds here because of the terrible height, and no living creature except a few lizards and a very small frog. This mountain is equally steep and inaccessible on all sides, except by the gorge [Platteklip] by which we had ascended, this lying right at the front of the mountain: at the top it is not more than 2 fathoms wide, set on both sides with very terrifying overhanging rocks, from which everywhere small and large fragments seemed to have been torn away, these lying in the path as aforesaid, in such a way that it is impossible to see the foot of the mountain even if one stands close to the edge; but on top the mountain is quite level and flat, especially in the 3 areas aforesaid, since in many places these are nothing but bare stony flats devoid of any shrub-growth. From here we could see over many forests and hills inland, and could also trace the course and run of
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the Salt River, extending very widely towards the North [Riet Vlei], incomparably further than we had gone at the back of the Table Mountain. And many other strange things.
After we had all fed our inquisitive desires up here, and the sun was well on its way down, we set out again downwards along the route by which we had come up, but found the same no less toilsome and dangerous than in the ascent. And especially I myself, having drunk too much cold water up above, was now plagued exceedingly by cramps, but nevertheless must go forward since no one would wait for me now that the night was at hand. Moreover the grass [‘liesagtige gras’] was so smooth under our feet that it was impossible to stand firmly, but rather we slid through the stones, sometimes for fully the height of a man, at the expense of our arms and legs, since we must chiefly rely on our hands to hold ourselves fast; and if they failed us we went on downwards in such a manner that the effects were well visible on our stockings, shoes and clothes. But what was even worse, the dark overtook us about half-way down the mountain, so that we were in danger from the wild beasts, and in the dark became separated into three groups. But later the new moon gave us so much light, that we were let into the Fort (at our request) quite late in the evening, thanking Almighty God for his protection.
Here we learnt that the yacht* Der Goes of Zeelant (which had sailed on January 10 last from Wielingen) had arrived [dr] at these roads....
12th. The ship seen by us from the Table Mountain arrived here, being the Prins Willem [dr], which had sailed about the New Year from Zeelandt....
13th. As we were now pretty well provided with firewood, the shallop* was again sent to fish, namely in the Salt River, where the crew had noticed much fish in certain pools. On their return they brought aboard more than 1200 harders, most of which they had taken from the said pools, using a small part only of the seine, since the harders here never or rarely leap over the net as is the case in the Indies and elsewhere. This fish is about a span long, or a little more or less, being rather slim than thick-bodied, with scales like a ‘wooren’ [?]....
Today the 14th in the morning the shallop again went out fishing, but the catch was nothing like so good as yesterday. The skiff* also brought in a good load, well worth the labour. This day we also got aboard the last of the refreshing, consisting of various sacks of cabbage, radishes, carrots, and a great number of water-lemons* and melons, which were distributed to the crew after the Cajuit* had taken its share of them; but of cattle only 2 old cows and one tasty sheep were divided among the whole fleet during all the time that we were here, which was little help for so many men.
15th. This morning was calm, and the Hon. Cmdr. Riebeecq came aboard to take his farewell of us. About midday there was a light breeze, though variable, but nevertheless we set sail: namely our ship as Admiral*, together with the ship Phenicx and the yachts* Coukerken, Maagd van Enchuijsen, Bloemmendal and Coningh David, all firing gaily in farewell, to which the Fort The Hoop replied to wish us Bon Voyage. The ship Prins Willem and the yacht Dergoes remained at anchor, to provide themselves with water
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and then follow us as quickly as possible. The yacht Cabbeljauw was also to leave for her destination shortly. We first set our course along the North side of the Robben Eijlandt, to take advantage of what little wind there was, this being still variable until the Dogwatch* [midnight to 4 a.m.], when we got a good breeze from the S:S:E:, sailing therefore S:Wt: for the most part.
16th. In the morning ... we lost touch with the yachts Bloemendal and Maagd van Enchuijsen, supposing that they had been overtaken at night by the calm caused by the high land, and being thus unable to come out. We nevertheless set forward our journey, and by the evening the Table Mountain was already out of sight....
Batavia June 18. Heeck then served in various ships, making a voyage to Siam late in 1655, and one to Coromandel in 1656: his journal ends on July 29 that year, and no second volume has survived. |
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