Cape Good Hope 1652-1702

2 Johan Nieuhof
(Plate 2)

(See also items 6, 8, 25, 29.) Translated from his ‘Gedenkweerdige Brasilianse Zee en Lant Reize ...’, Amsterdam 1682. This was put together from his notes, after his death, by his brother: this explains confusions such as the mention here of colonists and their farms, non-existent until 1657, and of events in 1660 and other such material properly belonging to his later visits: such entries have been marked †. Some of his lists of mere mentions of birds etc. have been omitted.

Nieuhof was with the Dutch West India Company from 1640 to 1649, as Merchant. Later he joined the V.O.C. and sailed on August 23, 1653 from Vlie in Kalf, with Lam, Vergulde Draek, Naerden. Northabout*. Fleet dispersed by storms. S. Antao for turtles, S. Vicente for fruits, fish. Sighted Dassen Island February 4, 1654 but held up by wind and fog.

February 9 ... at last [dr], after so many wanderings, we came to anchor in the Table Bay in 5 fathoms, good sandy bottom. The galliot* de Vos [Roode Vos] lay there.

Commandeur Rietbeek ... at once sent us a shallop* with fish, and a pilot who brought us in. Thus far we had eight dead, and fully forty sick; and in addition to these,

[p. 11]

the scurvy had such a grip on many of our crew, that it was high time to seek for refreshing, since we could hardly work the ship any longer. I went ashore at once with the Skipper ..., and brought back to the ship a quantity of mustard-leaves, to be boiled for the refreshing of the crew.

The Fiscaal* came aboard, and forbade all trade* with the Hottentots, as also remaining on shore by night without leave of the Commandeur Rietbeek.

Orders were given for the bringing aboard of water, which is very good there, and easily to be had.

On the twelfth the Draek came in [dr], anchoring near Robben Island ... Mean-while we were busy fishing, but could catch nothing because of the strong offshore wind.

On the 14 when it was somewhat calmer we came nearer the shore. The Table Mountain now showed itself plain and clear, although until now it was always covered with clouds ... a sure sign of storms.

This same day we again went fishing, and in one draught caught as much as the shallop* could hold: of them Heer Rietbeek took as much for himself as could be carried in fourteen wheelbarrows. All these fish were harders, which are seen swimming along the shore in great shoals....

The Draek now [dr 15/2] first came into the Bay, and had 50 sick lying flat in their bunks, and 26 dead, the rest being so weak with scurvy and other sicknesses that they declared, that had it lasted another fourteen days they would have been forced to give up and let the ship drift ...

Meanwhile we caught continually enormous quantities of fish, when the weather permitted.

On the nineteenth the wind blew so strongly over the Table Mountain that we must let fall our sheet anchor*.

Until the twenty-second we were busy fetching water and fishing. The carpenters went ashore to cut firewood along the banks of the Salt River, where much scrub stands, needing only to be cut there and brought in.

On the 23rd I went with some others to get some game, over the hills as far as the Salt River, where the blacks had assembled some 300 animals; but so soon as they perceived us they went off in haste with their beasts, without awaiting us.

.....

We heard also† [actually dr 8/1/55, Nieuhof not being present] that a rhinoceros or nose-horner was fallen into a marsh, and because of its weight could not get out. Commandeur Rietbeek sent some soldiers there with muskets, but the bullets rebounded from its hard, wrinkled skin. They cut an opening in its withers, and fired into this, until at last they killed it. The horns are still preserved† in the Fort at the Cape, and from them at times healths are drunk.

On March the first the weather was fair, but many of our crew were disinclined to go ashore, because little was to be had there, and everything was very costly. A musje* of arrack costs six stivers, a musje of brandy twelve, and a watermelon as big as a small

[p. 12]

[2] Johan Nieuhoff, from item 2.

[p. 13]

coconut five schillings, so that many could buy nothing with their scanty cash, and so got nothing but annoyance ashore, where there was indeed refreshing to be had, but too dear.

The next day we learnt that a whale was stranded in the Salt River. I went with our Skipper, and the Commandeur Rietbeek and his wife and some others, to see it, and it was indeed large. We climbed up onto it, and had the trumpeter play the tune Wilhelmus* of Nassau. The blacks took off lumps as large as they could carry, and buried them in the sand, to eat them later [dr 2/3, 3/3].

On the sixth Heer Rietbeek and some others went to the Hottentots, to see if some beasts could be bartered for red copper, tobacco-pipes and other trifles; but so soon as they perceived our people they fled inland.

On the ninth it was calm and fair weather. Many of our crew went ashore to wash their gear, since we intended to sail on the following day, and everyone must arrange accordingly. A quantity of cabbage and two sheep were brought aboard for refreshing in the coming voyage, but this was truly scanty refreshment for so many men .... Each day as long as we lay there the crew brought two sackfulls of greens, such as cabbage-leaves and white beets, which indeed were the best, and mustard-seed leaves. All this was boiled with some bacon, and served twice a day, and refreshed the crew.

The Cape of Good Hope lies on 34 degrees and 20 minutes South latitude, and appears like a peninsula or hanging island, since it is attached to the North to the mainland by a narrow stretch of land which is washed by the sea in two bays, one on each side.

There are various fine harbours there, such as the Table Bay thus called from the near-by Table Mountain: this is fully four miles* around, so that a whole fleet of ships can conveniently tack into and out from it, in all winds except that from the north-west which blows directly into the opening.

On the shore below the Fresh River the East-India Company has let build a four-cornered Castle, Fort*, or Fortress, named ‘The Good Hope’, which is strengthened with cannon and garrisoned against enemy attack. In this Castle Heer Rietbeek, the Commandeur or Chief who rules there in the name of the said Company, has his house and dwelling. Near by is a Garden* of 15 morgen*, grown with all sorts of plants [not yet so large†].

Behind the Fort of Good Hope are various farms and estates† [dr 21/2/57], neatly set out along the [Liesbeek] river, wherein cabbages and other greenstuffs flourish pretty well. These estates are inhabited by various folk come out from Holland, who are usually called Freemen*, and who, in return for the free right of cultivation, hand over to the Governor some part of their plants and fruits.

The soil at the Cape is mostly clay, so that everything will grow there, although in some places it is stony, shelly, or sandy. There are many trees all around, although only scrub-growth, good for burning. Inland very unusually large trees are to be seen. In the Garden grow olives, oranges, peaches, apricots, and other fruit-trees†. The flat fields

[p. 14]

and valleys are overgrown with grass and sweet-smelling herbs and flowers, and rye, wheat, rice and barley could also be produced, if they were sown....

A certain little root* grows in the earth, which the Hottentots roast in Winter, and use in place of bread. Some grind these roots to meal. The taste of some is like that of earth-nuts [aert-ekelen] or chestnuts, although others taste like aniseed, and sweetish.

On a certain hill [Bosheuvel] near the Fort of Good Hope our folk have planted some thousands of vine-stocks† [dr 2/2/59], which give abundance of grapes, but a sourish wine*.

But although, by reason of the goodness of the soil, everything will grow and flourish there, yet also the storm-winds do great harm to the plants. Strong and heavy squalls come over the tops of the mountains, especially in June and July, which are usually covered with thick clouds when a storm is coming; and they blow with such force that almost everything above ground is spoilt and destroyed. Then also the seas run very high around this ‘Cape of Storms’, and ships are in great danger when coming in from sea.

Otherwise the weather around the Cape is very good, and always clear, not too hot nor too cold. In June and July it is Autumn and Winter there, and then water sometimes freezes to the thickness of the back of a knife. In October and December a southerly wind blows: then it is as cold there as with a North wind in Holland. At times it rains there as heavily as if it were poured out from pails, and the water flows over all the low land, to the great fruitfulness of this, since by the rain the land is renewed and made green.

The land is rich in all sorts of tame and wild four-footed beasts and birds. There are many birds there [listed]. The pinguwijns walk slowly, and can easily be overtaken on land. They can be got out of their nests only with sticks, and when they are caught there they seek to defend themselves by biting furiously. [Further list, without descriptions.] ... ostriches: the necks of some of these reach as high as a rider sitting on a horse. They are grey in colour, and run with wings spread out, as fast as a horse. They eat all sorts of greenstuffs, and at times swallow stones, copper and iron.

There are certain birds [non-existent] like geese, which lay very good eggs without yolks or yellows, of the size of goose-eggs. They are exceptionally fat, and for that reason almost uneatable, tasting more of fish than flesh.

.....

Previously there were many birds called pinguwijns, which have very hard skins, in colour black and white, and somewhat larger than a goose. They walk upright on land, and can also swim. On each foot is a leather fin which serves them in swimming, whereby they go rapidly and catch the fish as their prey, so that their flesh tastes greatly of fish-oil and therefore is repulsive to eat, unless cooked several times in fresh water and then baked in a pan with butter. They dwell on the rocks and on the land, and also in the sea, and nest and lay their eggs in a hollow in the sand.

The flamingo is a very fine bird, almost as large as a heron, with a hooked beak, too thick, or better said too wide, to be able to break anything hard. They are beautifully

[p. 15]

coloured, red and pale red. The longer feathers are partly white and partly black, and the upper feathers which cover these are of a pleasing rosy colour.

There are oxen with thick and fat withers. They have fine long crooked horns: some also have the horns close to the body, and some have no horns. They are half a foot taller than those here.

Among other strange sea-monsters there are sea-cows [Hippopotamus], which are much larger and heavier than an ordinary European ox. They have no horns, but large ears, small eyes, thick legs, feet like an elephant with blunt toes, and a short tail. They have no hair on the body, but a smooth and sallow skin, and terrifyingly large teeth. They eat grass, and often dwell in the marshes, diving under the water where they can remain as long as they will. But they seldom show themselves, so that they are seldom even seen, let alone taken. Their flesh is like that of an ox, although stronger in taste. When salted down it becomes green, and marbled like Dutch salted beef.

There are also Iron-Pigs, with long quills, and when any beast or man comes near them they contract the skin and make these quills stiff, and can so fiercely and savagely throw them out [sic] that they can inflict a dangerous or even mortal wound. A lion was once found dead there† [dr 19/8/56], which had such a quill thrust into its breast: this undoubtedly had caused its death, driven in by an iron-pig because it had come too close. The skin of this lion is still† to be seen hanging in the Fort, for a memorial [see Museum*].

[Animals listed without descriptions.]

There are very many sheep, on which the natives live, and which they barter to us for red copper, tobacco and tobacco-pipes. They have no wool on the body, but coloured hair like goats, and have long legs. Their tails are long and thick, consisting of fat only: some weigh twenty pounds and more, and are a great hindrance and impediment to them in walking.

There is a certain wild beast called Jackal by the Dutch. It is in shape between a fox and a lion, and grey-haired. It yells and howls greatly by night, and is wonderfully avid for man's flesh, and at times digs up and eats the dead from more than ten feet deep in the earth. It is said to be sharp-scented, and therefore can discover the carrion for the lion.

Among others, there dwells in the wild country a beast as large as an elephant, but with two horns on the nose. Its tail is also like that of an elephant, and it has a small bunch of black hair on the neck, and straight round horns. On the skin it has short mouse-coloured hair.

At the head of the Lion Hill (which is thus called because it has somewhat the shape of a lying lion, and lies a cannon-shot* to the West of the Fort) there dwell very large baboons, which are so bold that they often chase away those inquisitive who climb this hill, with stones which they throw pretty well, as if they were half-men.

But of rapacious beasts such as lions, leopards, wolves, jackals and tigers there are now not so many where the land is cultivated, perhaps because they have become scared

[p. 16]

of men, who at times attack them. Thus a reward* is fixed† [dr 17/6/56] by the Company for anyone who shoots a lion, tiger, or other savage animal, the skins of all such hanging in the Fort on the ceiling of the hall [see Museum*].

Sea and land tortoises in great quantity dwell on land and water. The woods have many bees, which make their honey in the hollow trunks of trees.

There are also dogs with red hair and short tails.

There is a certain sort of fish, which our folk call ‘Hottentots-fish’, since the Hottentots know how to catch it with a little hook: this is one of the best fish to eat, tasting like cod. But most of the fish are unknown to us.

There are many whales in the Table Bay, from which there was good hope at first of getting train-oil; but it has been found by experience † that they are too lean, and that no profit can be made from them.

A certain fish is also found ... by our people at the Cape called ‘Kraek-fish’ or ‘Lazy-fish’: not because it is lazy in moving, but because of a hidden force which it is said to have - since when it finds itself hard-pressed by fishermen, or chased by other fish, it shoots out from itself a liquid which at once makes men and beasts stand still, and as if lames their limbs, so that they are forced to abandon their fishing, as if attacked by paralysis.

The inhabitants of this land are given the name of Hottentots by our folk because of their stuttering speech [see Hottentots*. Name]. The men go almost naked, having only a raw seal- or dassie-skin, or a sheepskin, sewn together from three pieces like a cloak, and hanging around the upper body and the shoulders as far as the buttocks. The wool usually hangs outwards when it is hot, or inwards when it is cold, and it is tied fast with a thong under the chin. When travelling they wear another cloak outside this one, with the wool outwards. The shoes consist of a flat piece of rhinoceros or nose-horner skin, equally high before and behind, and bound together over the foot with two leather thongs. The head is covered by night or when it rains by a cap of the skin of a young lamb, with the wool inwards. A little flap or skinlet of a spotted tiger or jackal or bush-cat hangs before the privities, and is tied behind with two small thongs which hang down by the body. The hair is ornamented with copper plates, doits, white shells and large beads, and is shorn off here and there.

The women wear a cloak around the upper body in the same way as the men, of sheepskin with the wool inwards, but hanging somewhat lower than that of the men. In addition they cover the lower body from the buttocks down with another skin, and the pudenda with a little square skin. A cap of sheep-, dassie- or sealskin covers the head, and is tied around the head with a broad sheepskin thong. The shoes are of the same fashion and material as those of the men.

Both men and women who own much cattle smear very thickly, not only their bodies and faces but also their cloaks, making them heavy with grease; but those who have little cattle or none do not wear such cloaks. Thus these smearings are considered by them as a sign of richness in cattle, and as an adornment.

[p. 17]

They have in both ears as ornaments great bunches of strings of beads, each string nearly a quarter-pound in weight. They adorn their necks with beads of yellow and red copper, and their arms with an ivory ring: also they have on their wrists a copper ring, so tight as almost to pinch the flesh.

When the women go abroad they usually have on the back a square leather bag, with a bunch of tassels hanging down at each end, and in it always some trifles or other. Those who have a young child carry it on their backs with this, which not a little hinders them. Around their legs [? error for ‘necks’] they have as ornaments by day and night the fresh or stinking guts of beasts, plaited twice or thrice together. Also they hang dried gut-rings around their legs, partly against the pricks of the sharp thorns, partly to make a rattling when dancing and rejoicing. The men also have such guts* hanging round the neck, and in them they put their tobacco-pipes and other trifles.

The principal weapons of the Hottentots are assegais or javelins or darts [schichten], these being sticks three, four or five feet long, mounted at the end with a broad iron, sharp in front, which they make themselves; and they well know how to throw and use these. They use also bows and arrows, but up to now have used no muskets.

When they go abroad, they usually carry an assegai in one hand, and in the other an ostrich-feather, or a stick with the tail of a wildcat tied to it, to remove from their faces dust and sand, and the flies of which the land is full.

In their feeding the Hottentots are exceptionally coarse, dirty, gluttonous and uncivilised, since they do not know how to make or prepare food like other peoples, but gobble down pieces of dead beasts and carrion, gnawing them greedily like dogs. They even gulp down raw entrails and guts, after they have shaken out the dung a little or pressed it out with their hands. Such dishes are seldom cooked among them. When dead beasts are lacking they eat dead fish which they find on the shore, as also periwinkles and abalones. They do not kill their cattle unless from sickness, old age, or other hindrances these can no longer walk; and similarly they kill no sheep, except for marriages. The flesh of seadogs or seals is eaten raw by them, or half-roasted on the fire, without washing. From the whales and other sea-monsters that are stranded they cut away the blubber and oily meat, and eat it with great relish: indeed they gather up by whole handfuls the oil which the sun has rendered down from the stranded whales, and drink it. Some cut pieces from these, and bury them under the sand, to eat them later. But their principal and daily food is a certain kind of roots*, the size of earth-nuts, dug out by the women from the rivers and elsewhere, boiled or roasted and eaten very greedily.

The principal drinks of the Hottentots are water, and milk from their beasts. They are wonderfully and madly avid for brandy and Spanish wine, although a little suffices to make them drunk. When drunk they are very noisy, with shoutings and other uproar.

The Kaffers or Strandloopers, the Hottentots near the Cape, are yellowish or brown in colour, like mulattos: this tint or colour they do not have by nature nor from their birth, but obtain it by smearing themselves with a certain fat or grease, which they make from various herbs known to them, and with it smear the face and the body until they

[p. 18]

[3] Stern of English warship sent to bring Charles II in 1660. Elaborate Cajuit with two guns above (and the defaced Commonwealth arms), Hut, and square portholes of gunroom. Ned. Hist. Scheepvaart Museum, Amsterdam.

[p. 19]

are black. It has been found by experience that a girl who was reared from her birth among our folk in the Castle [Eva*], and grew up there, was as white as an European woman. It is said, that if they did not smear themselves often, and from birth, they would become dropsical like the other blacks of Africa, and like the Abyssinians who have one thigh twice the size of the other [elephantiasis].

When Dutch ships arrive, these Hottentots or Strandloopers make for the galley and the cook's kettle, and smear the soot and black from this into their hair, mixed with fat, and around their head and face, so as to shine thoroughly and be brown and black, which they think a great adornment. By such smearing they look very grubby and dirty, and stink above measure. Further, they make grooves and cuts in their skin [Cicatrisation*], into which they rub fat or tallow as an ornament: thus the stink from their bodies can be perceived from a hundred paces distant.

They are usually spare and thin-boned, and ugly in posture and countenance; but they have lovely brown eyes, and alert faces, and white, strong and firm teeth so that they bite strongly. The nose is somewhat flattened but not quite flat: the lips are thick and project somewhat, especially the lower one. The forehead is tolerably wide, and somewhat wrinkled. The hair of the men is like lambswool, short and curly, but grubby and dirty from the smearing with fat: the women have somewhat thicker hair. The men pluck out the hair on the chin.

The men have fine legs, but thin calves, and are so fleet of foot that they can over-take a strong bull at full speed, and catch it and hold it back. The women especially have very small and fine feet: their belly is thin and slender, and their buttocks project. Their hands are well made, but the fingers long, and with long fingernails.

The sex organs of the men are large. Yet they have, it is said, one testicle* only, since the mother cuts away the right one so soon as a boy is born, and gives him sea-water to drink and tobacco to chew. It is said, that by this cutting off of the right testicle they are made more agile and better runners.

The women have long breasts, especially the married ones: these they have hanging loose and uncovered, and from them give suck to the child hanging on their back. The lining of their private parts seems to be loose and to hang out somewhat [see ‘Apron*’].

The Hottentots often squat on their heels.

The principal, indeed the only riches of the Hottentots consist of cattle, of which some have a great abundance: these they do not kill unless they can no longer walk, from age or sickness.

They stutter mightily in speaking, and sound like turkeys. They have no letters, nor can they read or write in their language, although some of them have learnt from our people to speak, read, and write Dutch, so that they are by no means stupid, but shrewd and ingenious enough. Otherwise they are a foolish folk, without knowledge. They have no generalship, to be able to conquer a strong place or fortress. Indeed any fireproof house would suffice to withstand them, since nothing more would be needed to keep them out than bolts on the doors. If some of them were shut in a house, they would be far

[p. 20]

better confined therein than in a solid castle, since they do not have enough knowledge to force a door or window to make an opening for their escape. In this they are less intelligent than the unreasoning beasts, which in general use force against any place in which they find themselves [sic: see dr 6/5/78].

Nevertheless, although the Hottentots are an ugly and clumsy people, yet there are among them some who are shrewd and wily enough in their affairs, especially if they are trained. This is seen among others in two boys who were taken along to Batavia by our people, where in a short time they learned to speak, read and write Dutch. One was a servant of [Governor-] General Joan Maatzuiker. After some time had passed he was sent back to the Cape, to serve as interpreter between our people and the Hottentots [suggests Doman*, but all details wrong]. In my first return journey [1658] I found him among his people, and asked him if he would not prefer to be with us, where he was better off; but he replied, that he would rather live with his people. I learned later, that he had stirred up many quarrels between us and the Hottentots, whereby various were killed on both sides. Therefore the Commandeur of the Cape, when he got his hands on him banished him to Robben Island, where also he died.

Theft is punished by them with beating, and murder similarly, although not from fear of God but following old customs. They say, that there is One, whom they call Hunuma, who can give rain and drought, although they do not pray to him.

The married state is tolerably well respected by them. A man takes as many wives as he is able to maintain. An engaged virgin takes her oath of fidelity and submission in a strange manner, since at the conclusion of marriage her mother cuts off a joint from her right little finger,* whereby she is now fast bound to the man. The cut-off joint is buried, and thereupon a cow is slaughtered and the friends make merry with this and thus celebrate the wedding. So long as the girls are unmarried and virgins, they are known as such by the ornaments on their legs, since on them they have rings of plaited green reeds, which on their wedding-day they change, putting on them the dry guts of the cow killed for the marriage, which for them is as a toy: thus in dancing they know how to move their legs in time with their voice, and by this strange movement the guts pleasantly rattle in time.

Truly the Hottentots are the most savage folk in the whole earth, yet in my opinion however those seem to err who will assert that among them there is no knowledge or even any trace of religion: since, according to the unanimous opinion of all theologians, no folk in the world is so barbarous that it does not honour some Godhead, be it true or false. Since, firstly, they honour the Moon, which they greet with rare shouting and song. It is also to be believed, that they hold the Sun in no less respect, since they continually follow it with their cattle as far as possible, in that when it reaches the Tropic of Capricorn they are found to be the nearest to the Cape (except for the Caepmans [sic: Watermen]) and are settled on the south-east stream [? Salt River]; and then, when the sun crosses the equator and goes towards the northern Tropic, that of Cancer, they break away and follow it.

[p. 21]

When heavy rain falls they creep into their huts and are very affrighted and fearful, from where they do not come out until this weather is ended. Then they begin to hop and trample, raise their heads to heaven and rock themselves to and fro, which, as far as one can judge, is a form of prayer and thanksgiving, since, if asked, Why they conceal themselves when it rains? they reply, because the Great Captain is angry, and comes to seek them out and chastise them with an element which is contrary to their nature. By this ‘Great Captain’ they understand the eternal Being. They listen very reluctantly when one speaks of God, also they punish those [among themselves] who do this, saying that such are too thoughtless, and speak of the Godhead with insufficient respect. If they are asked concerning the evil spirit they point with their fingers to the ground, and point them also at you. As regards the resurrection, they believe that when they die at the Cape they will rise up again beyond the hills; but this and other such things they may well have heard from the Portuguese or from us.

They wage wars against each other, usually for the best pastures for their cattle which all seek for and also have need of. At times in a general skirmishing or battle there are left dead fully six or seven Hottentots.

The Hottentots are of many sorts, which are differently named.

Those who live close to the fort are called by us ‘Caepmans’, but their own name in Hottentot is Chouriquas [description better fits the Watermen, Goringhaiconas]. They are the boldest and worst of all, since they continually have contacts with us and other Europeans. They live for the most part on roots*, fish, mussels and other shellfish which they find on the shore.

Somewhat further inland are the Hottentots whom the Caepmans call ‘Tobacco-Tekemans’ and our folk ‘Tobacco-Thieves’, because they regularly stole† [DR 12 and 13/3/57] the green tobacco which the Dutch were accustomed to plant, so that now they plant no more. But their own name in Hottentot is ‘Korrochauqwa’ [Gorachoqua].

Also there is a tribe called ‘Chamaqua’, with a click after the word [Chainouqua]. They are more powerful and richer in cattle than the Caepmans, but much less so than the Hottentots called ‘Kochukwaes’ [Cochoqua, ‘Saldanhars’], who live still further inland, and are many thousands strong, and own uncountable numbers of cattle and sheep. They come under two chiefs, one called ‘Odosy’ [Oedasoa*] and the other ‘Monamana’ [Ngonnamoa, Gonnema*]. The former was married to the sister of the woman-interpreter in the Fort [Eva*]. Not long ago† [dr 3/11/60] he came to the Fort at the request of Commandeur Rietbeek, but first had much enquiry made as to whether the Commandeur was a sufficiently important person, since otherwise his honour would be greatly damaged, seeing that he was a great Captain. [For all this see Oedasoa*.]

Rietbeek rode with the said Odesoy to hunt horses [Quaggas], but a savage lion sprang upon Odesoy, and would have killed him had not his people leapt on it with great courage and incredible fidelity, and pierced it dead with their assegais. Nevertheless he was greatly wounded: his shoulder-blade lay open, his neck was much damaged and his face could not be seen, so that it was felt sure that he would die. Rietbeek wished to

[p. 22]

have him at the Fort, to be healed by his surgeon, but he would not, putting greater faith in his own doctors. [All erroneous: again see Oedosoa*.]

Those Hottentot doctors seem to have some knowledge, at least of how to sew up a wound; but the scars remain as if it were cauterised. They carry their charms and medicines with them as do our quacks. The herbs they keep in closed-up tortoise-shells, but the little roots, claws, teeth and small horns of animals (since in the use of these lies their art, and they also have some knowledge of their effects) - these they carry strung together on a band which they hang around their necks as do our tooth-drawers, whereas the ordinary Hottentots have beads and other trifles hanging there.

There are also the Hottentots which our people call ‘the Sardinje Folk’ or ‘Saldanhars’ (from the Bay Sardinje or Saldanha near which they live); but in Hottentot they are called ‘Krijegoekwa’ [? Griqua; but the main ‘Saldanhar’ tribe was the Cochoqua as above].

The Hottentots say that to the north-east of the Cochoqua a very mighty tribe live in stone houses, who in civil organisation in no way differ from us. According to their report, they are as white as we. It is believed that they are the ‘Moon People’, a race enclosed within the Moon Mountains. But they say also that these know much concerning gold and silver and such things, and travel much to the Europeans, so that our folk believe that these may well be the Portuguese, who have made some settlements there from Mozambique. Our people have also made† [dr 6/6/57 etc.] expeditions* in that direction by land, although they gained little knowledge and attained nothing, being forced each time to turn back for lack of water.

They tell also of a race called ‘Heukum’ [Hamkumqua, Hequon], and of another ‘Groeman’ [not identified].

The Hottentots, the inhabitants of this land, are not at all inclined to obey any rule, and respect their Chief more because of his wealth than as their ruler. They have no fixed dwellings at all, but wander around ... taking wives and children with them, and all their gear. They are in no wise eager for gold or silver, except some who have daily had to do with us ... and know that they can get something from the Dutch farmers for money; but on the other hand they value copper very highly. They have no boats, and are very shy of the water, and dare go in no more than knee-deep. They are lazier than the tortoises which they hunt and eat.

Most of the trade done with them is for copper and beads, for which they barter cattle or sheep; but when the deal is completed one must give them some tobacco and pipes as a bonus, and pour them some brandy. They have learnt from the foreigners their liking for brandy and tobacco as things to be relished. In addition the inquisitive sailor also barters from them ostrich-eggs, feathers, small land-tortoises which they call ‘Harego’, and rhinoceros-horns.

It is strange that they have not discovered the metallic copper which lies at their feet and is daily trodden by them, since many signs of copper ores have been found.

Our people here have at various times† made expeditions inland from the Cape.

[p. 23]

In the year sixteen hundred and sixty [1661: dr 10, 11/3] some made such an expedition*, and found two new tribes, called the Illunhwa [not in 1661 journal] and the Namakkawa [Namaqua]. They believed that they were near to the Portuguese, and thought to have heard a cannon-shot. In inland travels an unbelievable quantity of water-birds is to be seen [listed merely], but they are so shy and timorous that one cannot come within gunshot of them. The hunters* of the Governor have in various places little houses made of scrub, in which they lie in wait for the birds, which also is the only way to get them.

On the mountains rocky areas are found, some stones of which hold fresh water in their hollows. When walking on the mountains to discover the land, some of our people found a rock fully four fathoms long and one and a half wide, which Nature had hollowed out as if for a drinking-trough, and had cut into it a span deep on the four sides. At one end it was somewhat lower, like a vent for the superfluous water, which the men found to be sweet, and greedily drank to quench their great thirst.

Uncommonly large ostriches are seen there, with very long necks. They are exceptionally fast runners, and can overtake a horse at full gallop. For this, they raise up their wings, with some coarse feathers lying between their pinions, wherein the gentlest wind has such a hold that it drags them along with it as if with sails. Moreover, they have such terribly long legs that they can take great strides with them, and at a mere trot go off like someone who runs down a steep slope with the wind behind him. This same manner of setting the feathers to the wind is seen also in tame swans.

Before we again put out to sea from the Cape, I will describe more fully the Table Mountain and the Lion Hill, as also the Table Bay and Robben Island, which previously were mentioned in passing.

The Table Mountain is thus named because it is flat on top like a table. It is about two German miles high [sic], very narrow [?], and therefore difficult to climb. It is separated by a narrow cleft [Saddle] from another hill called the Devils Hill. On the seaward side it is barren, with no greenery or trees; but on the landward side on the slopes of the said hill there stand very dense and lovely woods, with straight and erect trees, useful for all sorts of timber, to be had in great quantity. Somewhat lower, at the foot of the hill, there stand many smaller and lower trees, convenient for firewood. Among others there are many wild almond trees there, but their fruits are bitter in taste and, according to the Hottentots or natives, have some poisonous quality in them, so that they do not serve for eating. Many wild pineapple trees are there, although they do not grow very high, but their fruits are hollow within.

The Table Bay lies on 34 degrees and some minutes of south latitude, about five or six miles* further north than the extreme point in the South of Africa [sic]. It lies in the shape of a half-moon, and on one side is defended against the rages of the open sea by the Robben Island. It is a very fine bay, except that to the South of the Robben Island towards the bay there lie some hidden rocks, called ‘The Whale’ [Walvis Rock]. The ships lie in this bay in nine to seven fathoms of water or less, yachts* and flutes* in four or five fathoms, fine sandy ground. But one must lie to two anchors*, and well secured,

[p. 24-25]

[4] The V.O.C. ship Mercurius from a drawing of 1649 by Willem de Velde Senior. Exceptionally valuable because three views of the same ship are given.

[p. 26]

because of the strong winds which blow here, especially those from the South-East.

In front of the Table Bay lies an island called the Robben Island, because of the quantity of seals that dwell there. It is very low, and about two German miles* around. It is sandy, and rabbits* have been† [dr 2/4] put there, which increase very well. It is of very loose sand, and grown with green herbs which have a certain kind of yellow leaves, almost like our butter-flowers, [‘boterbloemen’, Ranunculus], from eating which sheep there become very fat. To the North-East of the Robben Island lies the Dassen Island, on 34 degrees and 33 minutes [sic], which has its name from the quantity of dassies which were found there in early days, but now are very much fewer because very many are taken there. It is a mile* around, with sandy soil, and has many seals and pinguwijns eggs. Four Freemen* live there† [dr 7/1/58], besides some slaves*, who maintain themselves by rearing pigs and hens, and by rendering down the oil from the seals, all of which they bring for sale to the Fort and the Freemen†, as also the flesh [of the seals], the usual food of the Company's slaves† [none before dr 20/3/58].

In front of the Saldanha Bay lie two or three islets, where the four said Freemen have† their hunting-ground and fishery, and catch there very many partridges, and a quantity of harders and other fish.

The principal rivers at the Cape are two, the Fresh River and the Salt River. In addition there is also a brook called the Liesbeek, since it is thickly grown with lies*. The Liesbeek has its source near a wooded hill, and flows into the Salt River. It is not more than twelve or fourteen feet wide, and in some places even less, but on the other hand it is very deep.

Also, near the Bosheuvel, or a little further, another brook has its source in a marsh or low weedy [liesigh*] area lying behind the Hout Bay [Hout Bay R.]. It flows South-East, and runs through low sand-dunes (which extend to the Cabo Falso) into the sea.

No place in the world knows of such storms as this cape or promontory of Good Hope. Ships would find conditions so bad there that it would seem impossible for them to frequent this region, were it not for the fact that Nature has looked to it, and has ornamented this ‘Cape of Storms’ with convenient bays to give shelter to the ships. Among these bays that of Saldanha, commonly called ‘Sardinje’, is by no means the worst, being a clean inlet free from all waves and dangers; and were it not for the lack of fresh water there, the Table Bay would have to yield place to it for convenience.

The winds are usually very strong there [at Table Bay], especially the South-East wind which blows from October to April (which is the South-East Monsoon*), hurling itself down in such frightful squalls through the gorge (the boundary between the Table Mountain and the Devils Hill) that, were the coast not low, and the water clean [not rocky] and flat, ships could not possibly ride at anchor, but would perforce be driven away from there.

From April to October the North-West winds blow (called the North-West Monsoon), which also can rage along, but never with such ferocity as does the South-East wind. Behind the Table Mountain, however, it comes with just such a force through

[p. 27]

that same gorge as does the South-East wind on the other side. There is no difference at all between these two winds, except that the South-East wind is dry and the North-West wind always mixed with rain, and thus does greater harm to the trees and fruits.

When one is over against the Cape, about on 34 degrees South, certain signs appear which must be taken note of, from which it can be known whether one is near the land or not ... being still far from the land of the Cape you will meet in the wild sea with a special sort of small gulls [Cape Doves], which are found around this promontory and are an easy warning of the land. But since these are found fully two or three hundred miles* from land, they do not so exactly indicate its proximity as is the case when you see a certain sort of large gulls with particoloured wings, which experienced folks call Cape Birds with particoloured sleeves [Cape Gannet]. If it should happen that any turtle-doves are seen, blown astray from land, then there is no doubt at all. And when one is close to land, and has between 40 and 50 fathoms, white shell-sand bottom with red fragments mixed in it, and also sees little diving birds [probably immature Cape Gannet] one may take it as certain that the ship is off the reef of the Cape d'Aguillas, even if no land be visible.

On the other side, to the West of the Cape, one has, besides these large Cape Birds with their velvet sleeves, the thick trumpet-weeds called ‘trombas’ by the Portuguese, these being thick hollow stems which grow like scrub on the rocky ground of the coast and lie with some leaves above water. These are found in abundance in the Table Bay in front of the jetty* at the Fort† [dr 4/3/56], and must be avoided by the longboats* and skiffs* in order to reach the jetty, since no oars can be used in these weeds....

The Hottentots, those uncivilised folk, were so ill-natured [at this call] that they would not barter an ox or any other refreshing with us. They muddied the drinking-water that we intended to bring aboard, which we resisted, seizing some of them; but they threw stones with such force that some of us were knocked down, and because they were in far greater numbers we were compelled to take to flight. At that time I had gone ashore to shoot some game, but before I could reach them our folk were already in flight. Next day I went with them, taking several armed men, with the intention of shooting at them if they again came to hinder our work; but so soon as they saw us coming armed they took to flight inland with wives and children and all they had....

After staying there three days [sic: 33] we set sail out to the West on the thirteenth of March to seek the ship Draek, but could not find her [dr]. Then we turned out again to sea.... [Batavia, China.]