Cape Good Hope 1652-1702

1 Johann Jakob Merklein

Merklein is specially interesting as giving the only ‘outside’ account of the new settlement at the Cape in its earliest days, and he can claim to be the first writer to describe it. The first edition of his Reise nach Java ... appeared in Nürnberg in 1663; the second, enlarged, also there in 1672, reprinted at The Hague in 1933. This translation is from the 1672 edition.

Like many of the early writers, Merklein served the Dutch East-India Company as a Ship's Surgeon, sailing in 1644 in the flute* Salm as ‘Unterbarbirer’ the lowest grade in the medical service, contrary winds preventing his ship from touching at the Cape on the outward passage. He was in the Indies until 1652, mostly at Batavia, but with journeys to India, Persia, Siam, Japan and Ceylon. On December 24, 1652, he sailed from Batavia in Princes Roijaal

... with orders to await the other ships of the return-fleet at the Cap bonae Spei, and sail with them to Holland, since there was already news from India that many Dutch ships had been seized in England, although it was not yet known whether open war [1652-4] had broken out. On the 3rd of January we passed the Prince Island and came out into the open sea, setting our course, as is customary, S.W. as far as 34 degrees of latitude, and then West to 60 degrees [of longitude*].

On the 23rd of February we sighted the outermost corner of Africa towards the South, named Cabo bona Esperança; but because the wind was contrary we could not come there, and three of our ships lost their anchors, and the ‘Malacca’ also her foretopmast.

On the 2nd of March we anchored at the said Cabo, in the gulf called Table Bay. There we found a Galliot*, or little racing-ship sent to meet us by the Directors of the East India Company, which brought the news that the war between Holland and England

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was continuing fiercely, and that already various sea-fights had occurred, although few of them to our advantage. [Swarte Vos, dr 18/1] She also brought Instructions and Orders, how we were to comport ourselves during the continuation of our voyage, and what courses we were to steer; but such Instructions were not to be opened before we had passed the Equator.

The Dutch garrison at C. bonae Spei greatly rejoiced at the coming of our ship, since they had for some time endured great hunger and want, wherefrom also various had died. Since, although the land is in itself pretty fertile, and the sea around very rich in fish, as shall be told later, yet they were still unprovided with implements to cultivate the land, and were granted no time to fish in the sea, being driven very strongly and heavily by the Commander Johan Riebeek to the building of fortifications and dwellings (since attack by the natives and the coming of the English was somewhat to be feared). Also, thirdly, because to their great misfortune various ships sailing from Holland to the Indies, which were destined to touch there and provide the garrison with provisions and other necessities, could not arrive because of contrary winds, and therefore continued their voyages directly to the Indies. For these causes they were so worn out by the continual toil and the great lack of food that it was pitiful. By this our Admiral was caused to give orders, that from each ship there should be sent ashore some sacks of biscuits and rice [and meat, dr 8/3]; and now the folk were also not driven to work so hard, since by the coming of our ships they now had little danger to fear.

While we lay there to refresh ourselves and await the other ships, we went ashore daily, either to fish or to amuse ourselves otherwise. The seamen filled our casks with drinking water, which is very good there, flowing out from between the hills.

Among other things, nine of us on board set ourselves up against the Master, for amusement (or better said, from foolhardiness), that we would climb the Table Mountain, which lies not far from the shore and is exceptionally high. Although the Master let us be set ashore early in the morning, yet we took nearly all day before five of us came to the top, the other four having returned back because they could go no further. But we had been up there only a little while, and had barely lit a large fire (as we had agreed to do) and refreshed ourselves with a little of the water which the damp of the clouds had left in the hollows of the rocks, when we observed, that on the far side of the hills a thick cloud was coming towards us. Since we had thus to fear, that the same might remain lying on the Table Mountain, as had often happened previously, we were compelled to make our way down again for fear of the great damp and cold. But when dusk fell, and we still thought to reach safety and therefore considerably hastened ourselves, I had the misfortune to fall down from a steep rock and dislocate my left arm, so that it was necessary to reset the same; and since meanwhile it became fully dark we were compelled to remain there, although in great fear because of the lions and other wild beasts, of which many dwelt between the hills. Then it was fortunate for me, that I was myself a Surgeon, since otherwise my arm must have remained unset all night. After we had thus been duly paid for our foolhardiness, we came back to the ship the next day.

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[1] Clothing and weapons of the Hottentots. From the French edition of Dapper.

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On the 4th of April [dr 26/3] there came to us a yacht*, named Haas, from Holland belonging to the East India Company and sent to the Indies, to refresh herself in the Bay ...

On the 7th [dr 14/4] the Yacht Windhund brought us news to the Table Bay from Holland of the continuation of the war between Holland and England.

After we had awaited the rest of the fleet for more than six weeks at the Cap bonae Spei, and heard nothing of it, the season of the year demanded that we should continue our voyage, and therefore the Admiral* called together the Vice-Admiral, the Masters, Mates and other Council Members of the fleet, to debate the resumption of our journey.

After this we sailed on April the 17th with a favourable wind out of the Table Bay, or Gulf of the Table Mountain, and set our course northwest [dr].

The Caput bonae Spei, called by the Portuguese Cabo de bona Esperança, lies in 35 degrees south latitude and 56 degrees longitude*. The land is indeed pretty hilly, but nevertheless very fertile, and the air very healthy, so that all sorts of crops could well have been grown there if the natives knew how to set about it. There is sweet water enough, which rushes out between the rocks and hills, and waters the land. Inland are fine woods and much game, but by the border of the sea few trees are found, because of the terrible storms which at times blow there, for which reason this place was formerly called the Cape of Storms. Further, there are many wild animals, deer, lions, ostriches and other birds, porcupines, baboons, penguins, seals, a great quantity of tortoises; and both in the rivers and the sea around an abundance of many sorts of lovely and tasty fish.

The natives of the land are savages, not tall in stature, thin, smeared with grease and filthy. They cluck in their speech almost like turkeys, and live from their cattle, of which they have a great quantity. They dwell in huts woven of canes and small twigs, which they set up where they find good pasturage and dwell together as if in a village or hamlet. When, however, they have eaten up the pasturage of one place, they lift up their huts and take them a few miles further where they again find pasture.

Their clothing consists of a little cape of undressed skin and a small piece of sheepskin in front of their privities. Otherwise they go naked, although at times it is pretty cold, especially in June, July and August; since because this land lies so far south of the Equator they have their winter when we have summer and summer when we have winter.

They are very piggish in their eating, since, although they have much cattle, yet when the Dutch kill an ox they beg the guts, from which they do but draw the dung between their fingers and scrape it out, and so lay it on the fire; and when it is not yet half roasted they bite into it with such appetite that it is a horror to see. The fat of the same guts they smear on their naked bodies, and hold it for an ornament, from which they stink so horribly that it is not well to have to do with them.

When they are merry they leap up and down and continually sing the word Hottentot [see Hottentots*, Name] and nothing else and keep this up for long, from this they are generally called Hottentots by the Dutch.

The Gulf, called Table Bay because of the aforesaid high hill (which is quite flat on top like a table, and is therefore called Table Mountain - it can be seen very far to seaward)

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lies about 12 or 15 miles* from the extreme corner of the Cap bonae Spei.

This Bay, or Gulf, is very conveniently set for those who journey from Europe to the East Indies, because of its convenience and fruitfulness, for the refreshing of their crews and the taking on of fresh water, since it lies as if half-way between the East Indies and Europe. It was first discovered by the Spanish and Portuguese; but when the Dutch and English also began to journey to the East Indies and to take their refreshment in this gulf, the Spaniards and Portuguese dared not come there any more.

In the year 1652 the Dutch threw up a redoubt there for security, and set a garrison, in part because some quarrel might arise between them and the English, also in part because the natives were not always to be found at the shore, but (as said above) set up their dwellings now here, now there. Thus, in order that the Commander of the place could buy in sheep and cattle at the convenient time so as to have them ready when the ships arrived, such a construction was indeed necessary. The said cattle they buy in very cheaply with brass wire for bracelets, tobacco and other things, so that a large ox does not cost more than a kopffstuck*. They know nothing of money, nor desire it.

The Dutch in garrison there have already made gardens* near their fort, in which they grow cabbage, turnips, pumpkins and other garden-produce, all of which grow very well and are very necessary for refreshment. But since the costs which the garrison there causes may not be in vain, they have begun to catch seals, or sea-dogs, on the little islands nearby, which dwell there in great numbers, and to render out the train-oil therefrom, to take off and dry the skins, and to load these when the ships sail for Holland, as also they gave our fleet fully several thousand [dr 10/4].

There are indeed many whales around this region, but at my time none had yet been taken, since for this special instruments are needed, and men that know how to use them. It is also hoped to introduce the trade in ivory and other wares from the mainland of Africa, the profits of which, should it be successful, would richly cover the costs of the garrison. So much then for C. bonae Spei: we now return to our journey.

St. Helena: Instructions opened, and ordered to sail northabout*: Norway: news of English blockade of Dutch ports: ordered to Denmark: Copenhagen: Danish escort until the Dutch fleet met: arrived at Texel November 11, 1653.